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Rust (a new twist)


Guest Mr. Solutions
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Guest Mr. Solutions

Hi there<P>I know, from reading every post post in the past year (!!!!) that rust is a topic that has been discussed many times, with one product being touted as better than the other.<P>My new twist is this: I do not seem to recall any discussion on a product called RASS O' NIL.<P>I enclose an e-mail that I received from the company.<P>Does anybody have any feedback on this product having used it?<P>========<BR>Dear Mr Bruin,<BR>Thanks for your inquiry. I don't know what gave you the idea that Rass-O'-Nil and POR 15 are same type of product. POR 15 is a paint and a top coat, and does not have anything to do with rust. On the other hand, Rass-O'-Nil is not a top coat, but it cleans surface rust, converts rust/scale 100% to a protective coating over which top coating can be done. Rass-O'-Nil prepares the metal (steel & aluminum) providing a rust/contamination free surface and a very long term rust protection after top coating (that means, it will provide few times more rust protection than the paint job done without it).<BR>I have attached the comparison chart between Rass-O'-Nil and POR 15. Also, I have attached the laboratory test on painting over Rass-O'-Nil coating, which came out to be more than three times rust/corrosion protection than the car manufacturer's factory paint jobs (GM or Ford's specification calls for passing 500 hours of salt spray test, Rass-O'-Nil passed 1540 hours of salt spray test and without using any other cleaning chemical and was brushed on light surface rust). The salt spray test is the measure of corrosion resistance of metal which is followed by the industries worldwide (from ASTM B117 specification).<BR> <BR>Hope this helps.<BR> <BR>Please contact me, if you have any question or need any specific information.<P>Best regards ,<P>Ranjit Sen<BR>International Chemical Products, Inc.<BR>Huntsville, AL.<BR>Ph/Fax : 256-650-0088<BR>e-mail : icpi@home.com <mailto:icpi@home.com>  <P>Web Site : <http://www.rassonil.com> <P>=============================<P>Thanks guys & gals

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There are many types of products out there doing as descibed to you in the email..to name some - Corroless, Extend, even Navel Jelly (I think), which converts rust to another material being hard, that is paintable afterwards. I have a qt f Corroless which I'm going to try on the other side of my truck frame, the first side being covered with POR-15. I've also heard of various results of the product type which was described......I guess if there were one product which absolutely worked, word would spread through out the hobby pretty quick. <P>As to the salt spray testing - that is very misleading most of the time. I work in the auto industry, and have done mucho testing using a number of coatings (the type we hobbyists use is way too expensive for the auto industry, so I haven't been able to get it on test). However, that doesn't simulate real world conditions of hot and cold cycling, dirt and grime and real world road salt, stone chips, etc. Its used in the industry as VERY basic benchmarking so you can at least talk apples to apples comparisons - but it truely doesn't give real world results. I tried powder coating on a part - it withstood unbelievable salt spray hrs - but it couldn't take high heat. Just give it a try yourself and check the results. If you keep your car garaged - probably almost anything will work for years and years - its when you get a car outside everyday in the elements that causes the problems. Good luck...and sorry for the long winded response tongue.gif" border="0

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I have a large interest in this rust stopping. The types of vehicals I buy are in the price range where rust is already started or worse. I have done alot of sandblasting and then priming and top coating of undercarriages. The most promising seams to be epoxy primer. I have also used oil based enamel primers and top coated with enamel color to seal pourous primer. <P>This is what I dont understand about the Por 15, extend, and other such products. They say to apply over rust. Does this mean not good on bare steel? The Extend I used did not seem to adhere well to the blasted steel. However I wanted to use something that would get into the blasted pitted areas and seal the remaining rust particals that seem to get just a little deeper than the abrasive can reach.Then ofcourse you cant ever get into the seam between the two welded panels that is where the rust began.<P>I just cant bring myself to believe that I can just put these magical products over rust and the problem is cured<P>So my question is what type of preparation does anyone responding to this topic use? What types of results are achieved? What would be the best for blasted ,but once rusty areas?<P>Should I buy a Delorean?

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Guest Mr. Solutions

I too have a hard time believing all of this rust magic, and hence my post...!<P>As far as I can tell, and please note that I have NOT used any product yet, something likes POS-15 "requires" rust to adhere to... in fact, bare blasted steel needs to be "primed" for grip as I understand it. This is also quite evident from many of the previous posts in this forum, viz-a-vie that these preps do appear to stick to rusted parts & provide relative good grip, while not to bare metal.<P>Now the interesting part is of course this "new kid on the block", Rass-O'-Nil. It acts as both a etcher / primer et al, as well as increasing the weld capability of any treated metal. I guess time will tell when I start.<P> blush.gif" border="0

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Mmmm, I would be a little skeptical about anything over metal that would increase the weldability of it confused.gif" border="0 However, while I have had mixed results with POR-15 (except engine paint which I found excellent), the idea behind POR-15 in their advertisements is that its best over a rough surface (and doesn't work over already painted surfaces) - typically that which is left from areas cleaned/scrapped of the loose rusty scale - the pitted areas. POR-15 doesn't do well on smooth surfaces, so if you use it on virgin steel, you have to skuff/rough it up some. As to the prep, after the scrapping of loose stuff (ok, actually have to get as much as you can off) and its been degreased - you use a metel prep, which is just a zinc oxide to etch and pretreat for painting. Zinc oxide is typically used across the board no matter what paint you use - it helps with adhesion and rust prevention. Then you put on the POR-15. Again, I've had a very mixed bag of results on my truck frame - areas that are still sticking after 2 years and is rock solid - and I've had areas after 6 months peels off. I've been told by their tech support that I probably didn't degrease well enough - or (which this part WAS true and I agreed with ) I should have used 2 coats of the base POR-15 before the optional topcoat, instead of using 1 coat base, then the top coat. Nobody has really has anything that has been foolproof - though in earlier threads there seemed to be a few that wrote in with nothing but accolades about Corroless with nobody saying anything bad about it.....

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Guest trevor ward

I've been here before, on this topic! I tried the hirsch miracle paint, which is another moisture cure paint and had really DISMAL results with it frown.gif" border="0 , and i have gone on to tell others about a product called "epoxy mastic" which is a two part paint with fantastic adhesion and high build capabilities , and is intended for use over steel which cannot be blasted but can only be subjected to "mechanical" cleaning of varying degrees, but i might add that i put mine on good surfaces with excellent results. It was designed for use on oil rigs by those norwegian types, who are pretty good at this stuff grin.gif" border="0 Take a look at, <A HREF="http://www.rust.co.uk.........." TARGET=_blank>www.rust.co.uk..........</A> <P>'64 le sabre .....slowly but surely cool.gif" border="0 <P> TREVOR..........

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Guest Mr. Solutions

WARDY: This "epoxy mastic" that you've been using (I did come accross their web site in my search as well), how is it for costs (seeing that it is a UK company) & shelf life. I notice that POR-15 must be used up in a certain time, and despite claims to the contrary from the manufacturer, based on past feedback in this forum, it eventually goes bad... That is what kinda drew me to the ras-o'-nil stuff - completely stable. Time will tell, and I'll keep everybody updated on it.

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Guest trevor ward

Johan..... I spoke to the guy at rustbuster for you and all the others out there, whose car is determined to revert to mother earth!! to find out the necessary info and i am not sure you'll be pleased at the result!! mad.gif" border="0mad.gif" border="0 EPOXY MASTIC is available in 1 liter / 5 liter / and special order amounts ( read "cheaper" !) and the good news is that it has got an "official" shelf life of 1 year but Ian told me that provided the main constituent ( component A)is stored well sealed and upside down to completely seal the lid then it is indefinate 'cos it cannot cure without being activated by component B (ratio 6A/1B) grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0 ......Now the grim bit. It cannot fly as it is a paint product( or rather it could at ludicrous cost!)But assuming you haven't won the lottery then it floats over on a ship and apparently the cost of this pretty much DOUBLES the liter cost so he tells me frown.gif" border="0 ... and the single liter cost is approx $32, so, $64 per liter is the result OH MY GOD shocked.gif" border="0shocked.gif" border="0 ....So that is the bottom line, but having said all that, you will not find a better product, but, as they say, "the ball is in your court"<P> '64 le sabre.. back glass is back in grin.gif" border="0 <BR> onward and upward........<P> TREVOR.............

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Guest Mr. Solutions

Hi All<P>Thankls for all of your replies. Sometimes ignorance is bliss, as I now more confused than ever over which is the best product!!!!<P>Wardy:<BR>Yes, it is a lot of $$ do pay, but if it works, hey, I'm all for it. I take it from your post that you're happy with it.<P>Later,

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Guest trevor ward

Johan..... you got it in one!!! VERY pleased with the results. supposedly 6 times the adhesion of single part paints, can't be bad!! You have a usable pot life of about 3-4 hours and what i do is to leave it to thicken somewhat in the pot and then, when you work it on with the brush, you can finish by using a "stippling" action to give the appearance of "factory" undercoating, and i haven't met one person who has not been impressed with the end result grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0 <BR>and i have a friend who is restoring a karmann<BR>bug convertible and has ordered up 6 liters of the stuff wink.gif" border="0 'cos he is so struck with it!!!!<P> take it easy and do not waste your money on moisture cure polyurethanes frown.gif" border="0 <P> TREVOR................<P> '64 AND WERE GETTIN' THERE......

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Guest Mr. Solutions

Wardy<P>Which part of the UK are you from? I use to live in the West-Midlands, Nuneaton (CV10 7AL). Still have a house there that I rent out. Maybe we can talk about you shipping me some if you don't mind... lemme know.

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Guest trevor ward

Johan... I live down south, in eastleigh, Hampshire, wich is about 5 miles from southampton, and about 60 miles from london and i am sure you may know this, but others may not rolleyes.gif" border="0 Now as far as me shipping over some...well i'd be happy to oblige, but would it be any easier than going straight to rustbuster direct?? but having said that, don't get me wrong , i would still be happy to if it somehow was easier/cheaper grin.gif" border="0 Let me know how much e.t.c. <BR> What type of surface would you intend putting it on, that is, how rusty or not is it??.....<P> TREVOR..........<P><BR> '64 LE SABRE ONWARD AND UPWARD (SLOWLY!)

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