Jump to content

Evans "Waterless" Coolant

Recommended Posts

Has anybody out there had any experience with Evans "Waterless" Coolant? My recently acquired '39 Zephyr came with leaky water pumps and Evans "Waterless" Coolant, and I wonder if there is any connection between the type of coolant and the leaky water pumps. My concern is that I don't want to use $25 per gallon coolant to ruin $400 worth(?) of rebuilt water pumps!

PLEASE don't tell me about the "deal" on rebuilt water pumps again! I already had this pair of Alan Whelihan's rebuilt water pumps on hand before Rolf posted the "deal".



Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't dream of it Phil, but how about asking Alan if his expensive new rebuilt pumps are supposed to leak, and if not, what he intends to do about it?? Also has anyone heard from Ace and his Columbia lately, real curious about that?? Rolf

Link to post
Share on other sites

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wouldn't dream of it Phil, but how about asking Alan if his expensive new rebuilt pumps are supposed to leak, and if not, what he intends to do about it?? Also has anyone heard from Ace and his Columbia lately, real curious about that?? Rolf </div></div>

Rolf, clean off the glasses, he didn't say Alans' water pumps leaked, He said his car came with leaking water pumps and Evans "waterless" coolant and was wondering if one had anything to do with the other.

I would doubt it, I am pretty sure that any product sold for a coolant system wouldn't attack rubber, leather, cork or any plastics that might be found in water pumps and their seals, impellers etc. The product should have a safety warning advising what is is safe for and what it is not.

Looking at Evans on the Internet they even claim "coolant system component life is increased, free from any additional scaling, corrosion, cavitation and electrolysis after installation."

I would go here and read what they have to say


a quick glance at this site told me that you can opt for non-pressure or very low pressurized system like 4.0 psi. If that is true that would really take a load off your coolant system compontnets like the water pumps, radiator hoses, and radiator not operating at high temps AND hig tongue.gifh presure. That would be great if true. Wayne might have heard of this stuff since most of their tests have been on highway in Diesel engines.


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually Dave, I am getting set up for cataract surgery very soon, and I did mis-read that post, but I faintly recall there was some problem with using those trick fluids in old systems?? My advice would be to use conventional coolant first, then maybe try the other stuff if you have problems, for what it is worth, from a half blind old Fogey, Rolf

Link to post
Share on other sites

Phil, I looked over the Evans site some more and am a bit confused. I thought that if it ran cooler than conventional 50/50 mix then maybe there would be a market here in Florida. The more I dug into it I started to sense that it is not promised to lower temperatures but to be able to run hotter than coventional mix without hurting performance.this from their FAQ page

Question: What will the COOLANT GAUGE read when using non-aqueous propylene glycol (NPG) coolant?

Answer: The normal operating range of standard coolant (ethylene glycol and water) is 160°F to 230°F with some cooling systems able to function reasonably well up to 240°F; although as this extreme temperature level is reached, the engine will almost always operate with ever less power and response until it boils over and stalls. At approximately 330°F the coolant warning light would normally light up; a cooling system operating with the more modern needle gauge would indicate higher coolant temperatures as they developed. As NPG contains no water, coolant temperatures can rise to higher levels without a negative impact on the performance of the engine. In fact, with NPG in many cases the activation of the coolant warning light represents a false warning as NPG works very well at 330°F. Gauges may show the needle at 330°F, a temperature probably located in the red, but again, no concern is warranted with NPG coolant.


I may be old fashioned but I wouldn't be worried at 330 degrees I would have already passed out!

Link to post
Share on other sites

My apologies as I read more on the Evans site. It does get confusing though.

"Although most vehicles overheat at EGW coolant temperatures of approximately 250° F (pressurized to 13.0 psig), the non-aqueous coolant can tolerate temperatures above 350° F. Although using higher coolant temperatures can introduce other problems, (i.e.: increased oil temperatures) the NPG will allow the possibility of increasing coolant temperatures with all the resultant performance improvements as those problems are addressed and resolved. EGW is temperature constrained only by the physics of the liquid.

Over the years engineers have solved many of the problems of using EGW at the limits of its physical properties. The same can be expected to happen with NPG, allowing full use of NPG?s high boiling point. Currently, however, most all NPG conversions are operated at traditional thermostat settings (180° - 200°F) with the high temperature capabilities of NPG utilized as a "safety measure".

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...