Paint Catalyst and Reducers... help!

[RoadsterRich]

I purchased the enamel to paint my engine block, it is an acrylic enamel (Dupont, recommended by the local auto paint supplier). They suggested using Nason Ful-Base 441-21 Medium Reducer, and Transtar Super Wet Look 8105 Acrylic Enamel Catalyst. I have concerns over the super wet look catalyst. They recommend it because they say it provides a harder, more chemically resistant finish. I do not however believe that my engine would have originally been anything close to a wet look enamel finish. Is it safe to bypass the catalyst or is a catalyst required or a good idea? And if so, what would be an apropriate catalyst to provide a 1930's vintage engine enamel level of 'gloss' finish?

More paint questions to follow... as I finish prepping the block for paint work...

Thanks!

Rich

[DizzyDale]

Dear Rich,Don't take this the wrong way but did you check with Bill Hirsch to see if he has the correct color engine enamel.I am for doing the job correctly but it seems to me that you have bigger fish to fry instead of worrying about the percentage of gloss on your block.diz

[RoadsterRich]

Bill Hirsch does not supply the color I need, nor did they seem to have any interest in dealing with me when I called them. They did however suggest some other vendors, none of whom could help either. I had the color custom mixed locally because I could find no one selling the proper color. Eastwood suggested the local Chrysler dealer, however they go by the "everything before 1942 was black" mantra, which I know in my case is certainly not true.

Rich

[Guest Indiana_Truck]

Hi Rich,

I don't know that the enamel would have been my first choice for an engine but it might be alright. You might get away with not putting the catalyst in the paint but it will take longer to set up and might not turn out as good as you would want. I would use it the way you were told and don't worry about the gloss because after you run it a few times it will not look as wet anyway. Also, I have noticed that people think the old paints did not shine like the new paints do but when I removed the emblem from my Indiana Truck the black paint behind it was original from 1925 and had a very slick, wet, glass like finish to it. I know it had not been painted because I had to drill out the pressed in rivits from the back side to get it off. Also the orange paint inside the cab on the gas tank will shine right up with a little polish so I don't believe it when someone says the paint back in the 20's and 30's did not shine like it does today. I have seen it first hand.

Post some more pictures so we can see how it looks!

Bob

[Guest Curt Fouse]

Good luck with the paint job. I have been using enamel on different parts on the 30 Buick that has been my winter time killer. I have used some without the catalist, and some parts with it. I like to use good ventilation and a mask when I use the hardener. I also have a fresh air compressor that gets it's air from my basement.By the way, that little can of hardener cost some $25.00. Use of the hardener will allow buffing of the paint, so I used it when I painted the dash.

[RoadsterRich]

Bob,

Right now it looks worse than it did 3 months ago. However, hopefully soon it will start looking better... I'll get some pictures up in the next week or two. Work and family have been tough on the free time since Christmas. My cousin died 2 days before Christmas, my mother collapsed and was rushed to the hospital 2 days after Christmas and spent a couple of weeks in the hospital. Right after she got out my father had surgery for cancer, 2 days after that Colleen was put in the hospital for heart issues. Last week my father had his second round of surgery, hopefully the last for awhile. On top of that we are crunching to deliver a new product to a client at work, and I picked up 2 more cars to work on. The side yard now houses 1958 & 59 Jaguar Mk IX Saloons, 1974 Fiat 124 Spider, 1981 Mustang LX, 1982 Fiat 2000 Spider and a 1986 Jaguar XJ6 VDP. On top of the 30 Chrysler 77 Roadster in my folks garage. Plus there's the family's 6 Daily Driver/Utility vehicles on top of those.

Hrrm... I must need more projects, I still have time to pop on here and type stuff in. Oh yeah, and first of next month is the National Meet down here, the Roadster won't be ready, but it will be there on display in the 'youth' area for the kids to touch and learn about cars with... How many hobbies do you know where the "Youth" area is for kids 40 and under?

Rich

[Guest imported_oldmitchell]

Acrylic will dry/harden without the hardener but is not quite as durable. There is a product that is available at paint stores that is specifically made to "flatten" the finish. You might want to try it. BTW, I and the paint manufacturers do not recommend using different brands of paint supplies together, You will get a better job if you stick with Dupont. Also, if there should be a problem no one will warranty the paint if you mix brands.

[Guest]

Can we assume you are planning to use Dupont Centari acrylic enamel? If this is correct, the paint will dry without hardener and will have less gloss. Do a spray test with hardener and without and then decide which method is correct. I have trouble believing that blocks were more glossy than that which you can achieve w/o hardener. I don't recommend mixing paint company products. Clean and de-grease the block thoroughly for best adhesion. Abrasive blasting is good but a clean casting should provide the tooth for the finish to adhere to. I like to first prime the casting with a light coat of self etching primer followed by only enough color to achieve hiding. Thick film build is not a lasting finish especially in the under hood environment. As far as using "engine color", just what is the magic additive that makes paint an "engine color"? I think the additive is called hocus pocus. John Worden Green Mountain Iowa