Paint Equipment

[Guest]

I'm looking at doing my first painting and I was wondering if people could answer some questions. I am most likely looking at using an Acrylic Enamel. I am pretty sure that I have it down that the prep work is probably the most important part, and I think I have that part down. My questions are:

1. About how much paint will it take to cover a 57 Chevy 4dr sedan?

2. Is it better to use a gravity feed gun, or a syphon type gun? What are the pros and cons of each?

3. About all I can get out of anyone around here for the difference for HVLP and regular guns is that I will use less paint. Could someone give me a little more info on what the differences are, and which is better?

4. Do I need a gun with a certain level of CFM, or do I just need to make sure that my compressor will handle what ever level my gun is?

5. Is it better to go ahead and paint fenders, doors, hoods, etc. while I have them off, or should I reassemble them and then paint the whole car at once?

If anyone can answer any or all of these questions, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Travis

[Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)]

Travis,

I am certainly no expert, but I can give you a little moral support. I painted my car myself with a lot of technical support via e-mail. You CAN do it. If I can, anyone can.

I went against the advice of several by using a cheap siphon feed gun, but it came out OK. As a matter of fact, the problems that I DID have were not because of the gun, but from my inexperience with the materials. It may sound like a joke, but I used the best gun Walmart had to offer. It is a Campbell Hausfeld and is the better of the three that they carried. I will say that a gravity feed gun may get into areas that the siphon feed won't because of the paint cup hanging down so far below the gun. Probably the best advice is to buy the best equipment you can afford. I couldn't afford a $300 or $400 paint gun, but I didn't buy the $30 one either. Seems like mine was just under $100. If you can afford the $300 one, by all menas go for it.

The one thing I did learn (a little later than I cared to) is that temperature is REAL important. If the paint calls for a fast or slow drying thinner or anything like retarders due to the outside temperature, PAY ATTENTION! That was my main problem with my primer AND paint. I figured it out on the last finish coat. Nothing a little wet sanding wouldn't cure.

[John N. Packard]

Travis,

I'm not an expert either, like Hal I have done my own painting. My results really improved when I got the TIP HVLP unit. It virtually eliminates overspray and lets me paint small items on a table in my garage without covering everything else in the garage with dust. I shoot lacquer for my antique vehicles but have also done basecoat/clearcoat on modern cars. I recommend a good quality respirator. I concur with Hal that temperature has a profound effect on the results. Too hot and humid is just as troublesome as too cold. In my experience the quality brand paints and thinners are more "forgiving" than the cheap stuff. I have some tools that I got from Eastwood that are effective in correcting runs. Good lighting is important. Sometimes in poor lighting conditions you can't really see how much material you are putting on the item being painted and that can lead to runs. Preparation of the surface to be painted is very important. A surface that looks great with a coating of diffuse primer can look horrible when you shoot the color coat that brings out all the defects that that primer hides. I paint doors, hoods, fenders, and trunk lids when removed from the car. It's a lot of work but allows you access to all the nooks and crannies. Paint materials are increasingly expensive and lacquer is difficult to find; but with patience you can achieve excellent results. Hope this helps.

jnp

[6219_Rules]

Travis...I used the Collector Car Restoration tapes and was very happy with them. They explained the guns, types of paint and how to do it. A little practice and you are on your way.

I am going to do this myself this year when it warms up. I want to touch up my '47 but I may decide to just paint it all! We will see.

Collector Car Restoration www.carestoration.com

[Guest Albert]

Years ago I did what most body men would cringe at... I painted a K-car with a quart of trimclad rust paint (1 quart did the whole car) using a $200 gun, and let it sit in a friends spray booth for the weekend. His painter came in on monday and could not beleave the shine, no runs and no orange peal, looked really good. The painter could not beleave it cost less the $12 to paint it or that we had used rust paint...the paint even outlasted the car!

[Guest Skyking]

Travis, check out this web sight. Kevin Tetz's Paintucation - Paint Your Own Car! There's alot of great info here. Go to the Q & A link. You'll get all your answers from a pro.....

[Guest Skyking]

Here's the link www.paintucation.com

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

to paint the entire car u r looking at a minimum of one gallon of paint ASSUMING a good quality paint like DuPont. Avoid trying to paint the entire car in one day or one session. Its too tireing and u run the risk of dragging the hose into fresh paint even if u go top - down.

The Better the equipment the EASIER the job and NOT necessarily the better the outcome. CFM depends on your compressors ability. Again, even with a small compressor and a small gun EXCELLENT results WILL obtain but its slower.

YOU NEED A GOOD QUALITY PRESSURE REGULATOR/DRYER, thats about the only thing not to skimp on.

Since u r new to painting i would try painting one of the fenders or hood while OFF of the car first. Painting them off of the car might be alot easier but assembly without scratching can be difficult. The answer to this question is a toss up depending on various conditions.

With the enamal u need to spray the LAST coat as wet as possible with out running the paint. This is what gives the enamel its HIGH gloss. Spraying real heavy is easy on flat horizontal surfaces (like repositionaing your removed parts).

But verticle surfaces is tricky and depends on ambient conditions. Enamal is really NOT for the beginner. Lacquer (which is what that car SHOULD have) is far more easier to spray uinder nearly even the worst of conditions and equipment. USE A GOOD QUALITY REGULATOR AND DRYER. USE DD paint. Forget ACME, Ditzler et-al. ACME and Ditzler were good paints at one time but not since the early 80's. CONTRARY to popular advice u DO NOT NEED to use the hardener. I never use a hardener.

Have fun.

[poci1957]

Hello Travis, get a few books and try the video series that has been suggested, I think it is now available at amazon.com. A few basics are that lacquer is the fastest drying paint, but requires sanding and buffing and can be prone to chipping. Enamel is more durable, but it is slow drying and prone to run. It is shiny without buffing, but it will attract so much dirt that you will have to anyway. I think the best first step is find a paint dealer that you can talk to. A good jobber will know the characteristics of his products and can give you good advice, and stick with ONE product line, as mixing brands is bad. Modern paints must be used strictly by the book, watch all the mixing proportions, temperatures, etc. Take a look at the PPG web site, they have detailed instructions for all their products. Best wishes, Todd C

[Guest]

This exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Thanks folks,

Travis.

[Peter J.Heizmann]

Travis...glad you received info that helps. This is the purpose of the AACA Froum.

Now...as Dan Binger cited a case example of a whole car's restoration being tracked on this site, keep posting with questions, or, just keep us informed as to how you are suceeding.

Regards, Peter J.

[jw24spec6]

travis, i sent you a private email with my address to email me. once again ill push the 49.00 dollar hvlp gun from harbor frieght. it is stainless fluid tip copy of a well known german gun. they have always worked well. since we are throwing out opinions on paint companys ill put in my 500.00 dollars worth. if you ask 5 painters which paint to buy you will get at least 5 differnt opinions. as for acme they are gone, ditzler or ppg is a good product now. i use sherwin williams in my body shop and it works great. it kind of depends on a lot of things as to what kind of paint to use. just remember paint has changed completly in the last 5 years its not the same as 20 years ago or 10 years ago. how about some photos of your car jim