Guest Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 I am new to this group. I hope I can get some help with my car. It is a 1953 Chrysler New Yorker Newport, 2-door hardtop. It has lost high gear. Does anyone know where we can get a kit to rebuild the transmission? Any help would be greatly appreciate. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Robinson Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Phillips50: Let me understand which transmission you have because there were several available on Chrysler products in 1953 and '54. You say it's Fluid Drive, but being a New Yorker, it's a V-8 model, and therefore it's either a fully-automatic Powerflite transmission or a semi-automatic Fluid Torque transmission. It's easy to tell the difference. If it's a Powerflite, it's a fully-automatic two-speed transmission just like a modern automatic. If it's a Fluid Torque model, there will be a clutch pedal on the floor, and you'll have to ease off the gas for it to shift between gears. If it's a Powerflite, you'll have to see a reputable automatic transmission shop, but if it's a Fluid Torque semi-automatic, I can help you, and the good news is that you probably haven't "lost" high gear. There are some pecualiarities that will keep them from shifting that are usually really easy to find and fix. Let me know which it is, and we'll go from there. JON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 It is a fluid torque with a clutch pedal. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Robinson Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 OK, here we go. Something really horrible would have to happen for you to actually lose a gear in one of these transmissions. You'd have to have chunks of metal falling out of the gearbox drain plug for there to be anything wrong with the gearbox. Check the oil level in the gear box. The filler plug is about four inches above the drain plug, not to be confused with a second plug much higher on the gearbox on the same side. Drain the transmmission, looking at the oil to make sure there's nothing horrible in it, and fill it back up with 30W non-detergent oil. Ignore the 10W spec. To fill the transmission, buy a bottle of Sta-Lube gear oil and the pump made to fit the bottle. Dump the gear oil into another container, wash out the bottle with gasoline, and use the bottle and pump for whatever you want including filling these transmissions. Second, slow your engine idle speed. If the engine is idling too fast, the transmmission will not shift when you let off the gas because the engine won't slow down enough for the transmission to synchronize. If it's still not shifting, disconnent the transmission wiring. On the two small poles of the spark coil, you'll see the two small wires for the ignition system, but you'll see a second set of wires for the transmission. This is where the transmission's electrical components get their electricity. If there's a short in the transmission wiring, the solenoid valve will hang open, and the transmission will not be able to build up enough oil pressure to effect the shift. With the wiring disconnected, the transmission will upshft, but it will not downshift when you come to a stop. You'll have step on the clutch at a stop, and the transmission will downshift. Try these first, and tell me what you find. If these don't do it, we'll dig into testing and cleaning your governor switch and solenoid valve. It's all easy stuff, and these transmissions are amazingly trouble-free with a few age-related bugs worked out. I'm about to take my 1950 DeSoto from California to Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Wyoming next month with a transmission like yours. JON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jchrisley Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 If anyone is looking for a two speed automatic (not sure if it's a powerflite)...came from a 1953 Chrysler New Yorker..I have one for sale or trade. Didn't want to see it go to a scrap yard. email me and I can send pictures...James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 OK, here we go. Something really horrible would have to happen for you to actually lose a gear in one of these transmissions. You'd have to have chunks of metal falling out of the gearbox drain plug for there to be anything wrong with the gearbox. Check the oil level in the gear box. The filler plug is about four inches above the drain plug, not to be confused with a second plug much higher on the gearbox on the same side. Drain the transmmission, looking at the oil to make sure there's nothing horrible in it, and fill it back up with 30W non-detergent oil. Ignore the 10W spec. To fill the transmission, buy a bottle of Sta-Lube gear oil and the pump made to fit the bottle. Dump the gear oil into another container, wash out the bottle with gasoline, and use the bottle and pump for whatever you want including filling these transmissions. Second, slow your engine idle speed. If the engine is idling too fast, the transmmission will not shift when you let off the gas because the engine won't slow down enough for the transmission to synchronize. If it's still not shifting, disconnent the transmission wiring. On the two small poles of the spark coil, you'll see the two small wires for the ignition system, but you'll see a second set of wires for the transmission. This is where the transmission's electrical components get their electricity. If there's a short in the transmission wiring, the solenoid valve will hang open, and the transmission will not be able to build up enough oil pressure to effect the shift. With the wiring disconnected, the transmission will upshft, but it will not downshift when you come to a stop. You'll have step on the clutch at a stop, and the transmission will downshift. Try these first, and tell me what you find. If these don't do it, we'll dig into testing and cleaning your governor switch and solenoid valve. It's all easy stuff, and these transmissions are amazingly trouble-free with a few age-related bugs worked out. I'm about to take my 1950 DeSoto from California to Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Wyoming next month with a transmission like yours. JON Wow, Finally someone gave direct on the spot M-6 fast track upshift advice- if it won't upshift after idle speed and fluid level checks, disconnet the wiring! Right on!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan53 Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 I see this thread is old but i am having similar problems. I have the correct amount of fluid, rpms, and my shifter fork lock screw is tight. I disconnected the solenoid and test drove and it still did not shift. I removed the interupter switch and verified the direct speed rail is moving forward BUT it looks like it is not moving forward enough for the ball on the rail to contact the ball on the interupter switch. I am thinking my piston is sticking but i figured i would ask for advice before i dig that far. This is a fluid-matic transmission in a 53 Chrysler crown imperial my great grandfather bought new in 53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 (edited) Trans full of fluid, idle speed 500 or less...wiring pulled off.solenoid...still will not immediately upshift..... Trans then most likely will need a new direct speed blocker ring and sleeve. They do fail...I have replaced quite a few over the years. Edited March 13, 2020 by c49er (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan53 Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 Can i remove the gear shift housing and be able to tell if they need replaced before i pull the transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 (edited) I took one apart to try and learn how these semi-auto transmissions work. It was broken, and given to me. I studied up, here are my findings. I did this to maybe help others if I could. Oil pump pressure, piston seals, spinning switch, functioning 6V solenoid, good grounds, all some of the things this weird little tranny needs, to shift. I am not 100% up on every little action and part inside this tranny but for the most part, I think I got it. Edited March 13, 2020 by keithb7 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Always wondered how one of those worked. Thanks for taking the time to post the video. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan53 Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Thanks for the replys guys. I'm not really comfortable completely rebuilding it myself so i've been looking for a local mechanic that knows about them but i have not had any luck. If i don't find someone before the end of summer i will try myself. I will be sure to post on this thread what i find out to hopefully help out the next guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) 16 hours ago, dan53 said: Thanks for the replys guys. I'm not really comfortable completely rebuilding it myself so i've been looking for a local mechanic that knows about them but i have not had any luck. If i don't find someone before the end of summer i will try myself. I will be sure to post on this thread what i find out to hopefully help out the next guy Where are you located Dan? Perhaps we can help rounding up someone who is competent and qualified to work on your transmission. Edited April 8, 2020 by keithb7 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan53 Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 I'm in Wentzville, MO USA. I think it's a long shot to find someone local, but its worth a shot. Thanks keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 On 4/7/2020 at 9:28 PM, dan53 said: Thanks for the replys guys. I'm not really comfortable completely rebuilding it myself so i've been looking for a local mechanic that knows about them but i have not had any luck. If i don't find someone before the end of summer i will try myself. I will be sure to post on this thread what i find out to hopefully help out the next guy It would be a shame if you had to miss a summer of enjoying your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Time Traveler Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 Does anyone know what size clutch is in the new yorker 1953? Thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 Fluid-Matic...9-1/2" Fluid-Torque Torque Drive...10-1/4" 1953 NY'er Hemi V-8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, c49er said: Fluid-Matic...9-1/2" Part number 1327280 Fluid-Torque Torque Drive...10-1/4" Part 1324558 1953 NY'er Hemi V-8 Original part numbers added from my 1953 Parts book. Edited August 13, 2020 by keithb7 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan53 Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 After almost all summer with my car sitting in the garage, i decided to tear it apart myself. I think bob was right, my direct speed ring and sleeve are pretty burred up. In my shop manual, it says "serviced in sleeve and ring package". Also, unrelated, my e-brake is full of oil so i need an extension housing seal, and of course the extension housing to case gasket. Does anyone know where to find these parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Have you tried Andy Bernbaum or Roberts Motor Parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenrikB78 Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Thanks for the video! I have a 1953 New Yorker with fluid torque drive (clutch pedal) and I´m wondering about converter/clutch slip when driving in high gear up hill. I suppose it´s normal to have some slip via the converter when going on the road up hill. Just wanna make sure it should be this way. I have some issues with kick down but it shifts between gears when doing a complete stop. Both in Low and Drive Another thing is if it´s difficult to change converter oil/fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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