replacement radiators

[Jay Wolf]

After a long drive yesterday I parked in the garage. I pull the Bird out this morning and there was antifreeze all over the floor. Looks like my radiator took a dump. Looking it over it needs replaced. My question is this.

I don't care if is it totally stock, but I want it to look stock.

Looks like most places sell a four row replacement radiator for around $350. some sell that, plus a 4 row "High Efficiency" for $440.

What is a "High Efficiency"

Any body seen on of these?

Is it worth the extra money?

Do they look stock?

Quick replies are appreciated as my 55 T-bird is down and it can't get up. Looks like I will be missing Indy next week, but I want to get it going as soon as possible.

[rocketraider]

Before I went thru all that I'd check with a local radiator shop and see if it can be recored using your original tanks. I went thru this with the Starfire a couple months back, ordering an "exact replacement radiator, built from factory prints and specs" to the tune of $375 plus ship from US Radiator (Desert Cooler). 4 weeks lead time.

When it got here, I went to put it on. Well- my "exact fit yaddayadda" radiator was TWO INCHES TOO SHORT top to bottom. It couldn't be mounted in the car. Phone calls to USR were frustrating as there was no one there in the tech department to see if they had actually built one for a Cutlass instead of full-size car, and the guy on the phone spoke very poor English.

After a day or so of this, I called a local shop that I had almost forgotten existed to see if he could recore it. Took it there, he measured it, found the correct core and I had the radiator back and on the car in two days. That included ordering, shipping and building. Total cost: $219.00.

[Guest DeSoto Frank]

Jay,

I had the radiator from my '59 Edsel (Ford 352 engine) wagon re-cored about three years ago for $230 from a local shop.

The last couple of re-cores I've had done have run in the $200-$250 range, and have held-up just fine - they are in daily drivers.

As for getting additional capacity in your new core, the biggest limiting factor is going to be the width of your stock tanks, as to whether they can use a core with another row of tubes.

I would suggest looking into a recore on your stock rad..

Frank McMullen

[Guest brh]

I had an overheating problem on my original radiator on a 65 Buick. I contacted a local shop that was recommended, they used copper tubing as original, and used my top and bottom tanks. You cannot tell this radiator was changed, it was not cheap but its probably the last time I will have to worry about it. Also, if you decide to go this route-mark your tanks to make sure they actually used them.