V-12 Internal engine parts

[peecher]

Any of you that do your engine work? I will be starting on my '46 soon and would sure like to know who can supply all the internal engine parts (pistons, rings, bearings, cam bushings, valves and lifters)for the V-12. I have access to a good machine shop but would like to do the assembly myself. I can do the searching but if any of you have had good experiences and good service from certain places I sure would like to have your recommendations. Western U.S. is preferred but beggars can't be choosers. Thanks for any help.

[DizzyDale]

Dear Peecher,I would think George Trickett in Vermont would hve EVERYTHING you need.Phone number is on the Sources page of the LZ website.diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[peecher]

Dale,Thanks I'll give him a call. I have his catalog but he only listed a few bolt-on engine parts.

[DizzyDale]

Dear Peecher,George rebuilds these engines for a living,i would THINK he would have ALL the parts.diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[Guest imported_V12Bill]

Peecher, I have purchased rod, cam and main bearings , pistons, pins and rings as well as rod small end busings, and valve springs and overhaul gaskit sets from Egge in the LA area of Calif. I purchased valves, solid guides, keepers ,and retainers as well as intake seals as used in 49 - 53 Fords from Job Lot In Queens N.Y. None of the parts are cheap and I think between the two I spent about $l,200.

When you start the job, be sure to have the block Magna Fluxed to make sure there are no cracks. Cracks show up between the intake valves and the cylinder from seriously overheated engines. Also have the block dipped at a place like Redi Strip to remove rust in the waterjackets and definately replace the frost plugs in the bottom of the block. It is surprising how badly rusted through they are and haven't started to leak yet. The newer V 12 blocks are 55 years old||

Good luck , Bill

[Guest imported_V12Bill]

As a P.S., Valve lifters are hard to come by and expensive when you find them ( X 24= $$$) I found that they can be easily rebuilt by taking out the check ball valve replacing it with a new ball from a ball bearing. I think they are 3/16" . Clean up the entire assemble, put it back together and move on to the next. About 20 minutes each. Get an old Motors or Chilton book and they tell you how to test them. Also check the cam shaft for worn lobes. If some one used solid lifters I know a lot of lobes are worn down and the cam may be a total loss. Alan Wheilahan is able to rebuild cams by welding up the worn area and regrinding the lobes. I think a max of three lobes per cam because of heat distortion in the welding process.

Bill

[peecher]

Hey guys, Thanks for all the good input!

Bill, I do have an old Motor's Manual ('35 to '50) and it will be very useful.

I didn't know about the trick with the lifters and the ball bearing. Neat.

Years ago I used to work on these guys( a lot)but that's been a while and I haven't had any Zephyr grease on me for a long time. Can't wait! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest]

If you need a cam and want a different grind for more torque or HP, I have Harvey Cranes address and phone# he will make the cam you want, he was the original owner of crane cams before he sold out. let me know and I will email the info to you.