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PCV's in V 12's


Guest imported_V12Bill

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Guest imported_V12Bill

I heard that a PCV could be mounted on the underside of a Ford V 8 manifold and thus it would do its job without being seen. I don't like the idea of introducing new hoses and such to the outside of a V 12 and thought this might be a good idea. Before I do anything though, I would like to hear from anyone who might have installed a PVC to their V 12. Did it effect the idle speed?, Have you opened up the engine since the installation and observed a cleaner interior?, Does the factory original tube that draws fumes into the intake system do an adequate job?

Any obsevations that you might have experienced would be appreciated.

Bill <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

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Dear V-12 Bill,Only put 700 miles on my 39 coupe before i tore it apart but i put 3,000 on my 37 Ford one summer.Both the V-8 and the 12 were in great mechanical shape.Good compression,no over heating,no oil burning.I am just assuming that the vent tube in the pan was working.I would think that if you change the oil every 1,000 miles you would not have any problems as long as your engine was in good shape,no oil burning or blow by.Now to answer your question,No i do not have any experience with a pcv system on a flathead.Interesting ideas,can't hurt,do not know if it is necessary,just my thoughts,diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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Bill -

If I'm correct, doesn't the draft tube provide the same function, except that the car has to be moving to create the vacuum that "pulls" the polluted air out? My understanding was the PCV had two main advantages:

1. It worked all the time, even when the car wasn't moving.

2. By reburning the air, it cut down on emissions.

Does anyone know for sure? I have seen dealers talk about a PCV conversion kit, but don't know anymore than that.

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The Zephyrs, like many cars of the era, suffered from poor crankcase ventilation and any improvement such as a PCV system that would address that problem would be a good thing to do. however, with modern oils, frequent changes and limited driving the sludging-up isn't near the problem it was 50 years ago. I think the trick here is to design a system that would ventilate the entire interior of the engine as modern systems do. Merely putting a PCV somewhere might draw off the fumes without actually ventilating the engine?

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Please excuse the over-site on my part.Just read my TWOTZ and realized that Jake Fleming {214-333-3197 Texas time} long time Zephyr guru sells a pcv kit for the V-12.He has been selling this kit for years and i forgot about it.diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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  • 2 months later...

Positive crankcase ventilation really cuts down on odor and oil leaks.

It is not a panacea for an engine with major blowby, but if you have a good engine it (PCV) will cut down on your maintenance chores. Do it discreetly

Mike Rollins

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The PCV valve provides positive crankcase ventalation, the problem with putting one on is that they should be on oppisite ends of the engine, oil filler vent used for fresh air intake and a hole drilled and gasket for the pCV in the front of the intake. you also have to match the pcv to the size of your engine or you will have a lean condition. If you dont want any extra hoses on your motor, the best way is to vent your oil pan on both sides. use some valve cover breathers the old moon eyes type(which can still be bought through mooneyesusa.com they have baffels in them to keep oil from getting out, mount them high on the side of the pan and it will solve all your crankcase and rear oil seal leaking. the V12 has allot more crankcase pressure than the V8 and the little hole that the air filter uses is not enough. the only problem is its not original, but you wont be changing your clutch because it got oil on it.

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Thank you Diz, for stating the obvious, some of you may remember my diatribe a while ago about "oil-lizards" and the problem of crankcase ventilation, and a competent person has solved many of the problems, namely Jake Fleming, but since he does not have a web-site, and does not gouge in his prices, he is almost totally ignored by this group, go figure?? Rolf

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I was intending to call Jake when it came time to do my distributor, since I understand he's an expert in that area.

With regard to gouging, who should we be avoiding, Rolf? Private-email me if you like cool.gif. Generally speaking, I've found everyone to be pretty helpful, but no one is cheap!

That said, I'm on line to pick up four waterpumps and two aluminum heads for less than $100 -- all because of the internet. I'd hate to imagine trying to go through this resto effort without this forum and the online markets.

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Dear Cecil,For that kind of money you can't go wrong,i am sure thats what you are thinking.Put a steel straight edge on those heads and see how flat they are, check and see if there is any MEAT left on them from previous millings.I saved the best for last.....CRACKS and the old ELECTROLYSIS problem around the water jacket holes.diz blush.gif

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I have a backup coil there that was gift from one of the great guys on this board, took it to Jake last week and he already has it finished. I am going to pick it up next week. What a wonderful guy. By the way, drove my 37, the three brake special, again today and it ran and braked like new. I can't wait to see how it feels when it has brakes all the way around.

Ace

P.S. Now we call our old 37 Abraham.

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