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1948 Starters


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Hi,

I have a 1948 Continental with starter problems. I'm not sure I have the correct satrter on the car. I understand there were 2. Does anyone know how I can tell which starter I need. I currently have the longer style ( came with the car and worked for a while) and it seams to drive in too deep on the flywheel, doesn't release and stays in the flywheel. I tried an new starter drive and it didn't help. Any information would be great.

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Our friend and "Zephyr" guy, Rolf, looked in his parts book an lo-and-behold there are 3 different starters listed. There is also 3 different drives. The part no. will start with 5EH. Not sure what the combination(s) of starter and drive that were available.

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Thanks,

Not bad enough there are two, but now I have to figure out which one of three combos are in the car. I liked the 50-50 shot better.

Thanks for the info.

Lane

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Guest imported_V12Bill

Lane, The late 47 and all 48 Linclons used the 5EH ll002 starter. The armature shaft is longer to accomodate a different starter drive and so the oil pan has a longer cap to accomadate the longer shaft.Thus a 47/48 starter will not bolt up to an early oil pan. The change came about because Lincoln owners did not like the lowly sound of the Ford starter and drive. They did after all pay a lot more for their Lincoln than a Ford. From 36 to 40 Lincoln used a l932 Ford starter, from 41 to early 47 a 41 Ford starter was used.

Now to your problem. All starters are held to the oil pan by two long bolts that pass through the length of the starter motor. A bracket on the top bolt also bolts to a bolt(third from the end) that holds the pfan to the block. If this bracket is omitted, the starter will cock from torque and jam the starter drive in the flywheel teeth. Also make sure you have a clean connection between the starter and the pan. This insures a good angle of atttack for the starter drive and a good electrical ground.

If you had the starter drive apart, did you assemble it correctly? If you get a chassis parts book, it shows a blow up drawing of this assemble.Everyone should have a chassis parts book. A reproduction is available for about $30. I have almost worn mine out and will probably need a new one in the near future.

Double check your installation. There's not that much that causes alignment problems.

Bill

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Bill,

Thanks Very much for the info. Do you think if the bracket broke (which it did) there is any way the starter mount got bent? My big problem is why it worked before and now I can't get it stop grinding even with a new drive. The cover from the starter was missing when I got the car and it did have the longer starters on it. A few other folks said sounds like someone removed the cover to get it to clear the longer starter, not sure if it'e the correct starter. It's a mystery at this point but I am still looking into it.

Thanks again

Lane (ladokap@yahoo.com)

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Thanks Bill for the clarification on the starter useage. Lane's "grinding" noises may be due to flywheel ring-gear damage caused by the mis-alignment? May have to get a small mirror and take a look at the back side of the ring gear at several locations before installing the correct starter and brace.

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Guest imported_V12Bill

Lane, If that bracket is broken or omitted, your starter will definately jam up from the torque of the starter twisting it in the mount. By twist, I mean only a few thousands of an inch. That bracket must be replaced or no starter will work for you.

Bill

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Thanks Bill,

I haven't had a chance to work on the car and check some of these things out.

I have to be out of town for the next few weekends. Once I get a chance to check things out, I'll let you know what happened.

Thanks Again

Lane

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