Clutch

[Guest tin_knocker]

Recently I experienced excessive pedal lash on my 37 Special. This made it difficult to get into 1st gear or reverse, so I adjusted the lash to specs. Now it does shift alright, but requires much more pressure on the pedal than previously. My question is, what could be the cause, and how difficult is a clutch replacement on a torque tube car?

[Charles2]

I would grease the linkage at all of the fittings, oil any friction points and check the clutch linkage for binding and broken springs between the pedal and the throwout fork. This could be a broken or missing helper spring. If you don't have a copy of the service manual, I would recommend that you get one if you are planning a clutch job and also to check locations of helper springs etc. Kanter Obsolete Auto Parts (Kanters.com)has photocopies of most of the service manuals; they are generally about $40.00 and worth the price in labor saved and jobs not needing to be re-done. It also shows you what should be there.

As for the clutch, it is a bit of a job. My experience is with 1938 and 1940, 40 series cars but I'm sure the job is similar on the 1937's. Jack the rear of the car up high enough that you can roll the wheels back away from the transmission when everything is unhooked then put GOOD jack stands under the frame just ahead of the rear wheel wells. If you can also raise the front of the car 10"-12", you will have a lot more room to work. Again, use good jack stands. Support the differential using a floor jack so the rear axle does not hang from the shock links. Disconnect the rear brake hose, emergency brake cable, shock links and spring bolts. Lower the rear axle. Go forward and disconnect the torque tube at the second flange behind the transmission; this is the flange behind the torque ball assembly. The torque ball assembly is normally easy to identify, there is often a lot of gear oil leakage from the joint. Now, check to make sure that there are no extraneous wires, coat hangers and such connecting the rear axle assembly to the frame. Remove the bolts and carefully separate the torque tube from the torque ball assembly; have a light jack stand ready to support the separated end. It helps to have a helper or two to roll the rear wheels back as you work at separating the flanges although you can do this alone. Once the torque tube is separated from the torque ball, roll the rear axle back far enough that you have room to work, block the wheels and support the flange end on a jack stand. From this point, the work proceeds just as with any other clutch job: Pull the transmission and clutch housing (you will have to support the rear of the motor). If you have a 248 cu. in. engine and your flywheel needs refacing I believe that you will have to pull the pan to remove the flywheel bolts so plan for this when you place the supports for the rear of the motor. If everything goes OK, you should be able to jack the car up and get the rear axle off and out of the way in 2-3 hours. If the bolts are rusty on the springs or shock links, you can spend 8-10 hours on this part. Have penetrating oil, an oxy-acetylene torch and a fire extinguisher handy to loosen fasteners and to deal with any unintended fires. Get a torque ball seal kit from Bob's Automobilia to use when you re-assemble. Again, the service manual will take you through the procedure. It is worth the work to have a leak free transmission. Also, check the transmission insulator (rubber mount) and the rear motor mounts, they are usually oil-soaked and in poor shape. You can have them re-vulcanized but you send your mounts in for the re-work, I'm not aware of any exchange service. Bob's Automobilia or Steele's Rubber Products (both on the web) will do the work. Plan on 2-3 weeks turn-around and about a $300 price tag. The rest of the clutch parts are available from Kanters, Bob's and other suppliers. Good luck.

[Charles2]

On my previous post, I forgot to mention that to remove the rear axle assembly, you also have to disconnect the Panhard rod at either the axle or the frame. Fasteners on this can be rusty and hard to loosen as well. Check the rubber bushings at both ends for replacement; if they are loose you can get sway and/or annoying rattles.

[Guest tin_knocker]

Thanks for such a detailed and informative reply. I have ordered a ring and pinion to replace the present 4.40 and thought that if the clutch needs replacing I would do it when I do the ring and pinion, if it ever arrives. I printed your reply and am certain it will be helpful.

[Guest imported_JPIndusi]

Charles2 gave excellent advice on this. One more thing, check the shop manual, but I think the lower spring bolts may have left handed threads. I assume you are getting the whole pumpkin and not just the ring and pinion gears. On the 1940 to 1955 I think you can use a later pumpkin and reuse the original torque tube and drive shaft, but not sure on the earlier ones.

Joe

[Guest tin_knocker]

Joe, I would also like to thank you. If you remember that some time back you answered my query in Auto Restorer about changing the ring and pinion and spent some time on the phone explaining the procedure.

Rollie