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Paint Over Rust Product (gimmick?)

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I used it in the trunk of my 1965 Special Convertible. The former owner had a mat in the trunk, under which some surface rust had developed. I sanded it down, painted it with POR-15, and then painted over it with splatter paint. It has been a year, and it still looks great. In other words, it suited my needs in this case just fine.<P>Bret

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Has anyone ever successfully used POR-15? I read the on-line information provided at this website: <A HREF="http://www.por15.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.por15.com/</A> <P>It acts as a preventive measure against further rusting and apparently covers over the existing rust to stop it from doing further damage.<P>Is this just another gimmick? I'd like to know if anyone has used it and monitored its value over at least 8-10 months.<P>Thanks.

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KEN.,POR15 is a moisture cure polyurethane and Hirsch miracle paint is a similar product which i have used on all my fender wells on my '64 le sabre. The result of the miracle paint was very disappointing, and after about a year it came off in vast flakes, with NO sign of any successful adhesion whatsoever!! I went through all the prep methods as advised, i.e. leaving a firm rusty surface for a good key and two or three thin coats but i have now scraped all of it off ( HUGE CHORE ) and replaced it with a two part paint called "epoxy mastic" and to my mind it is a far superior product with fantastic adhesion. This and other rust preventing products can be found on the site <A HREF="http://www.rust.co.uk" TARGET=_blank>www.rust.co.uk</A> ,and, although their stuff would have to be shipped over it would be money well spent smile.gif" border="0 Other people may have had success with por15 but i personally wouldn't recommend it to ANYBODY!!!!!!!! Hope this is of some help TREVOR..........<P> grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0

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Huh. I used POR-15 on my rusted gas meter pipes (outside, southern exposure, wetlands classification). I just wirebrushed them down -they had ROUGH rust all the way around and brushed the POR-15 on. The basic black is UV sensitive (affects the appearance but not the performance)- but I didn't top coat it. No bubbles, peeling, flaking, re-rusting or touch-ups AT ALL, and I painted the pipes about 5 years ago. <BR>I also painted my 2 firewood splitting wedges, and while after maybe 8 days of splitting, the friction of the wood began to peel some of the POR-15 off. Still, they have sat outside 365 days a year for the last 3 years and they've only rusted where the wood ground thru the paint. The rest has stayed on well. I painted my frame with it, and I'm sure I'll never have to do it again.

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Huh. I used POR-15 on my rusted gas meter pipes (outside, southern exposure, wetlands classification). I just wirebrushed them down -they had ROUGH rust all the way around and brushed the POR-15 on. The basic black is UV sensitive (affects the appearance but not the performance)- but I didn't top coat it. No bubbles, peeling, flaking, re-rusting or touch-ups AT ALL, and I painted the pipes about 5 years ago. <BR>I also painted my 2 firewood splitting wedges, and while after maybe 8 days of splitting, the friction of the wood began to peel some of the POR-15 off. Still, they have sat outside 365 days a year for the last 3 years and they've only rusted where the wood ground thru the paint. The rest has stayed on well. I painted my frame with it, and I'm sure I'll never have to do it again.

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Huh. I used POR-15 on my rusted gas meter pipes (outside, southern exposure, wetlands classification). I just wirebrushed them down -they had ROUGH rust all the way around and brushed the POR-15 on. The basic black is UV sensitive (affects the appearance but not the performance)- but I didn't top coat it. No bubbles, peeling, flaking, re-rusting or touch-ups AT ALL, and I painted the pipes about 5 years ago. <BR>I also painted my 2 firewood splitting wedges, and while after maybe 8 days of splitting, the friction of the wood began to peel some of the POR-15 off. Still, they have sat outside 365 days a year for the last 3 years and they've only rusted where the wood ground thru the paint. The rest has stayed on well. I painted my frame with it, and I'm sure I'll never have to do it again.

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I used Hirsch's Miracle Paint on the frame of my 91 pickup 2 years ago, upon inspection a few months ago it is bubbling & starting to peel off. Definitly a gimmick frown.gif" border="0

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I've used POR-15 and Miracle Paint on a variety of cars and boat trailers.<P>In short - they bubble and flake over time. Even if sandblasted before painting. Not satisfied with long-term results.<P>Now, I only use Corroless from Eastwood Company (www.eastwoodco.com).

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I used the POR-15 engine paint on my everyday drive-in-Michigan-weather/winters on my 4WD and its been great - engine still looks good. However, with the frame paint I've used, its been mixed results - both with and without useing their recommended top coat. Some areas its peeling and flaking off, others its holding yet. I used their degreaser and metal prep and per their directions all the way through. I think the degreasing is probably a major point unless your doing a frame off resto. Again - mixed results such that I'm also going to give Corroless a try on the rest of the frame.

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How about something far easier to use, less expensive, aerosol or bulk, does NOT contain Isocyanates or Lead with their dangers and yet is very effective at rust control? Zero Rust is the alternative! <BR>Moisture cured urethanes have been around for many years and are marketed under a slew of brands, names, etc., but generally speaking are seriously overpriced.<BR>Look over our website and then check out the forums at Len Stuart's <A HREF="http://www.autobodystore.com" TARGET=_blank>www.autobodystore.com</A> and Kevin Tetz' <A HREF="http://www.paintucation.com" TARGET=_blank>www.paintucation.com</A> for some independent 3rd party opinions.<BR>WK Irish<BR>See ya' on the net at <A HREF="http://www.zerorust.com" TARGET=_blank>www.zerorust.com</A>

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I actually posted a complaint to POR-15 on their website after going through this thread and seeing others with the same spotty/disappointing results as I've gotten. They called and left a message the same day. I'll get back with and update after I get a chance to talk to them about the problems I have encountered that seem common the other users.

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Get rid of the rust before you paint!!!!!!!<BR>why have do you amerikans have to take shortcuts when it come to rebuild a classic car???

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I would love to field that last one! (May I) smile.gif" border="0<P>Well it's like this, We have to take short cuts sometimes, because we pay most of our money in taxes to our government! Then they send it over to countries like yours so you all can do your classic cars without taking any of these same short-cuts!<P>Just my HUMBLE opinion!<P>Duane<p>[ 08-05-2001: Message edited by: Nailed1 ]

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Ok guys let's keep 'em above the belt now. Although I admit I had to chuckle at <BR>Nailed's response.<P>Thanks everyone for your posts. <P>P.S. BUICK NUT, let me know if you hear anything back from POR-15, I'd be curious to know what they say.<P>Keep cruisin! cool.gif" border="0

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have used por-15 with some success, but only if it is applied to rough surfaces. it seems to hold well on 80 grit sanding scratches/coarse rust, but it peels on smooth areas after a couple years.<P>i have not tried any of the epoxy type stuff. thats next.<P>allan

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I called the rep from POR15 that responded to my emailed complaint about the product. He stated my problem was that the base paint I put on should have had 2 coats prior to putting on the POR15 top coat. I had problems with it flaking off, and the rust coming through the stuff that didn't flake off. So since it was 2 yrs ago, I can't remember is I did that or not. Seems the top coat is NOT a rust preventative, though I got the impression from the literature that it was supposed to be. The areas that flaked off, probably wasn't degreased well enough. The degreasing was a problem as it was an everyday driver, and I can't dunk the vehicle and let it soak for days in degreaser - so much for making a product that can be used in everyday situations! Though admittedly, ANY coating won't work unless the substrate is properly degrease - so I guess I shouldn't expect miracles. I guess it was the answer I was expecting from them - not a very satisfying response. The bad thing is that I have already applied it in on some other areas, and once you get the paint on and it cures, you need to sand the heck out of the stuff to put some bit into the base coat to put another coat on, because it does dry rock hard and smooth as glass...just I don't think it adheres as well as it should. Well, I still have some stuff left, I may try the rest of it per his instructions - again, heck, its just an old truck and not on of the restoring vehicles - but I'd hate to go back over and do it again is the problem. Guess I'm not pissed at them, but their literature should specify that the 2 coats need to be JUST the base coat. Thats a lot of time puting on paint though, because each subsequent coat needs to be added while the previous coat is still tacky....so I'm looking at probably about 6 hrs for each area to be painted, if I go with 2 base coats and 1 top coat. How many coats does it take with the other paints mentioned ?

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Has anybody used Corroloss from Eastwood ? What results, and how many coats, will it take regular spray paint (rustoleoum..for example) top coat ?

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Eastwood has a good reputation & I'm going with that the next time. An earlier post-er said it works great. After a couple not so good experiences, I'm not using Rust Oleum any more, it peels & can be scratched off with a finger nail quite easy

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Hi Ken - good to hear from you.<P>I'll add my nickles worth on POR<P>I've used POR 15 on most of my vehicles and other "things" around the house. I've had mixed results. The best results I have had occured when I sanded or wire-wheeled the surface, brush scrubbed it with a cleaner (like Castrol Super Clean), rinse and rescrub with HOT water (crank up the domestic hot water and get a garden hose), let it dry good, hit it with a metal prep (I used Bill Hirsch metal prep), paint with POR 15, then topcoat or prime the POR when it gets tacky to the touch. Do the job on a humid day, preferably in the garage. If you let the POR dry hard, you will need to sand it before you topcoat it or the topcoat will eventually peel.<P>I've used this on everything from my 55 Buick, 76 Chevelle, 92 Astro rocker panels and doglegs, 91 Taurus, and even my snowblower attachment to my tractor.<P>On the blower attachment, it has held up very well after 6 nasty NY salty winters, even inside the chute where the gravel can hit it - I only topcoated with 1 coat of finish color. Topcoat on the chute is gone but the POR survives. It worked well on the Astro and Chevelle, but on the trunk and door seams of my Taurus I can't get it to stay put for more than 6 months! I did the gas tank on my Buick, I foget how long ago - more than 5 years at least. The front half is still bulletproof, the back half is flaking and dull. I attribute it to possible UV degredation or poor prep on my part (although I doubt the latter). <P>In my experience, if you put the time and and sweat into the prep and topcoat of the product, you maximize your chances of getting good results (like with any painting project). I can't explain why recently I've had some problems - maybe quality problems across different lots of the product??<P>I did the front suspension components this winter on the Buick while I had it all apart - came out pretty good although not a long term test item yet. I topcoated with 2 coats satin black paint (not POR) just in case to protect it from UV.<P>However, I too think I will try the Eastwood product when I complete the rest of the undercarridge details (after I get the tranny fixed!). Friends of mine have used Corroless on their projects and said it is less labor intensive, have gotten more consistent results, and anyway I'm ready for a change. <P>Maybe we can all get a group discount?<P><BR>Cheers! smile.gif" border="0

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