emmd61 Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 Not sure if they make an extension that can use on a power drill to spin the oil pump through the distributor hole. Or area I can pump pressurized oil into the block. Or spin engine with starter with plugs out. Appreciate advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 Iwould be wondering about the gas more than the engine If it were my car and knew the status(running well, change oil before storage)I would hit the ignition with the choke open till the oil light goes out If there's room in the fuel tank I would fill it up with fresh gas as much a possible Then fire it up If it was sitting outside I would further pull the plugs and get some pb blaster in there for a few days before hand If it's a new to you car and someone told you it was started 3 or 4 ago that could be 10 or 12 years in reality, I would then be more comprehensive before starting Lot of "if's" 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 46 minutes ago, emmd61 said: Not sure if they make an extension that can use on a power drill to spin the oil pump through the distributor hole. You should be able to make one yourself. Go to the junkyard and get an old distributor, remove the drive gear and other parts you don't need. Then make modifications needed to attach a drill to it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 The drill method is best if it has been sitting that long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 You can probably add the pressurized oil through the oil pressure sending unit hole. Just stop the air pressure before the air gets into the motor. You want pressurized oil, but not pressurized air. Remember, too, that (according to "The Motor Oil Geek", there is still oil in the motor, many places, that did not drain back completely. Don't forget to oil the rocker arms, pushrod ends, and valve stems, too! Here's a theoretical way to do things. Drain all of the oil out of the pan. Get some new valve cover gaskets, put a skin-coat of black high-heat sealer on all sides of them and let it cure overnight. Next day, with the oil pan dripped empty, remove the covers (as they were just laid, rather than bolted down) and pour about 2 qts of 5W-30 oil over the valve train and pushrods, such that the run-off follows the normal path back into the pan, from the topside. Install the new gaskets and valve covers. Pour the remaining quart into the normal receptacle. Turn the motor over with the starter, coil wire unplugged, until oil pressure is initialized. Reconnect the coil wire and start, verifying first if there is gas in the float bowl. The lighter, multi-vis oil will flow quicker to where it needs to be. Once the engine is running and starting reliably, after an hour or so of runtime, do a complete oil AND filter change to the desired motor oil. Prior to starting, with the oil system pressurized, might also desire to manually "bar" the motor over for a few revolutions before using the starter and installing the valve covers for the final time. Modify to your liking! Just some thoughts, NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 This may seem like overkill to many, BUT it has saved countless/frustrating hours upon hours & possible damage & extra $$$ that my NOT be necessary. 1st. thing I do is, of course, remove the plug wires. Blow air at the spark plugs to try & eliminate as much debris as possible. Next loosen the plugs & blow air again to blow out as much debris as possible before removing. You don't want anything to fall inside. After plug removal look inside each cylinder with a camera to try & locate rust & other debris. Blow compressed air into cylinder to loosen & blow out any debris that my be inside you can't see to hopefully loosen & blow out particles/debris. Next is to use PBlaster or WD40 that jells up with the "straw" bent up to get to the top of the cylinder. We WANT lubrication before spinning engine BY HAND 1st/only. Now that the lube is inside the next step is to remove the rocker arm assembly's. Spray the penetrate of your choice on the valve stems. We need to make sure none of the valves are hung up/seized in place in the valve guides to prevent bent pushrods or worse. Using your hand/Plamb of your hand to push down on the valve. IF stock the seat pressure is pretty light at a round 50-60 pounds. IF the valve is seized in the guide you can use a hammer on the top of the valve & tap kind of lightly at 1st.until the valve starts to move & progressively hit it harder as it starts to loosen up, but not so hard that IF the piston is at TDC your don't want to bend a valve. Now go over the routine again to make sure everything is good to go. Carefully install the rocker assembly's & torque to 35 ft. lbs. bringing the assembly down evenly & not just tighten away. Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the cup of the rocker arm. IF your are going to remove the pushrods for checking, before pulling out give them a twirl with your fingers. You DON'T want suction pulling the lifter out of place. This will take 60 + or - minutes depending on your skills level. Now using the starter tap the ignition until you feel comfortable that spinning the engine over for an extended period will NOT do any harm & this gets the oil starting to flow. We don't want to start a long dormant engine with no oil flow. Cranking the engine over has now spread lubricate around the bore & the rings. Do you feel comfortable installing the plugs & trying to start the engine??? It will smoke badly until all the lube has burned off. Hopefully this will help getting a long dormant engine back to life with little or no damage. Tom T. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrAG Riv Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 I improvised an oil priming tool from a length of 1/2” copper pipe with a pin (nail ) inserted across the bore of the pipe that nests nicely down into the keyway of the oil pump shaft. On the up end I fit a 3/8” drill socket and secured with masking tape. Used it successfully on my 63 when I did the rear main seal and oil pump inspection. Pulled driver side valve cover so I could witness oil flow and ensure I had primed everything correctly. Crude? Yes. But it worked so well I put the tool in my box in the event of a “next time”. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 On 10/28/2024 at 9:50 AM, emmd61 said: extension that can use on a power drill to spin the oil pump through the distributor hole. If you choose to spin just the Oil Pump. I didn't want to mess with a good spare distrubutor. All of my long screwdrivers were too nice to cut up. Also, could not buy just one cheap screwdriver, they come in sets, same price as one quality screwdriver. Again, too nice to cut up. I managed one 1/2" drill spade for <$2 at surplus. To use, simply ground center pilot tip off and ready to use! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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