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1928 Chrysler Model 72 Coils


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This is a photo of the coil off my 1928 Chrysler.  The coil is fused to the round metal plate which allows it to be mounted on the firewall.  I have 2 of these original coils and neither of them is the same diameter.  I have a new replacement coil which again is of a different diameter.  Options are to rebuild the original coil or to separate the old coil from the round metal plate and somehow marry it to a replacement coil.  Some information on both of these options from anyone have experience with this would be most appreciated.

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Leo,

 

Coils have no moving parts and in 56 years of fooling with all kinds of old junk, I thought I had a bad coil once but it turned out that my brand new battery was bad.

You can test the circuits with a multitester. There are numerous you tube videos and that will tell you if you have the correct resistance in the primary and secondary fields.

The coil on my '29 75 phaeton is the same coil it has had for over 40 years and it works fine.

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Apparently some of these old coils function well when cold, but starts to misfire when they get hot. Myself, I had this issue on my previous Series 65 (original coil) and current 1940 Chrysler. On the 1940 I replaced it with a NOS coil (was in box) and most worries disappeared, however this year I do experience that this coil also starts to misfire when it is hot outside (air temperature). If cold air it will run for hours with easy starts and good pull, but when the temperature exceeds 20 degrees Celsius the car will not pull well above 2000 RPM and is very hard to start hot. As the engine temperature is much higher than whatever is outside this does not make much sense, but I will try out a standard 6V coil next year.

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And that Narve N is the real issue.  Even though you can bench test the coil and get satisfactory results, under use will it heat up and fail.  

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