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Stuck wheels on 1935 Pontiac


gwells

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I work and volunteer at a train museum here in the greater Atlanta area and we have a 1935 Pontiac done up as a taxicab. Car has been sitting for more than five years and we'd like to get it running again. It was running well some time in the not-to-distant past.

First problem we have encountered is that the lug nuts on one of the front wheels are rusted to the studs and everything just spins, so they can't be removed.

 

I wasn't present when this work was being done and haven't seen the shop manual we actually have, but wondered if any of you Pontiac gurus have some insight into how we might resolve this problem.

My first thought was to soak the nuts and studs for a week or so with Kroil or something similar and then hit 'em with a big impact gun. Long shot but might work.

TIA in advance for any advice.

 

taxi.jpg

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Heck, I just realized that this thing is a 1935 Pontiac, not a 1937 as the museum has it labeled, at least based on images I have searched up. Am I correct?

 

Original post edited to correct year.

 

Post edit: the museum did have the car's year correct in the display. Dunno why I was thinking it was labeled '37, creeping senility most likely.

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  • gwells changed the title to Stuck wheels on 1935 Pontiac

Is it a Deluxe? It may not matter for what you asked but there are some differences in the brakes. The big important difference between the "Standard", sometimes called "Master" and the Deluxe is that the Deluxe has a Chevrolet-like Dubonnet suspension and the Standard/Master has a straight axle. All Eights are Deluxes, while Sixes can be either Deluxe or Standard/Master.

 

Pontiac marketed the straight axle cars as "Standard" for part or maybe all of 1935, and "Master" in 1936. By 1937 they were calling all the 1935-36 straight axle cars "Master" in the parts catalog. This explains the confusion you are likely to run into ordering parts.

 

You should at least bleed out the system enough that you have all fresh fluid, and look for leaks. Brake fluid rots. Get the old stuff out of there. If it were me, I would probably put new rubber in the system, especially if you don't know how old the rubber is. The brake hoses are at NAPA, but they are not cataloged there for your Pontiac. The oldest Chevrolet pickup they list (might have been a 1950 3/4 ton) uses the same brake hose in the back. This Chevrolet back hose is the same as all 3 hoses on a 35-36 Pontiac Standard/Master. Probably Deluxe too, but I am a little less sure of that. The back one is definitely the same. Compare old hoses to be sure.

 

If it were me, I would hone out the cylinders and rebuild them, sleeving them if necessary due to rust damage. I believe the master cylinder rebuild kit is the same for many years, maybe even all the way to 1954? The master cylinder itself is not likely to be. The wheel cylinders use 1" cups all the way around on one version (Master/Standard or Deluxe). On the other version it is 1" cups on two cylinders and 15/16" on the other two. I am not near my books and can't remember offhand which is which. I had a wheel cylinder piston stick on a trip once, and would like it a lot better if the cylinders had been lightly honed recently and the pistons and cups all lubed up with Sil-Glyde.

 

These are Bendix servo-action (floating anchor) brakes very similar to ones used as recently as the 1970s on some cars. One major difference is that there are more adjustments like an adjustable top anchor and if I remember correctly, maybe a stop on one shoe. If you are not overhauling the brakes and putting on new linings, it is best to stick to just adjusting the star wheel to compensate for wear. If it is all screwed up though, or you change linings, you can use a feeler gauge to check and adjust (it's in the shop manual).

 

 

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