Let's talk chrome - Any thoughts on a shop that will do a small job?

[Bhigdog]

7 minutes ago, AzBob said:

For those in the west, I learned of a chrome plating shop I hadn't heard of before. The owner had a booth set up at our annual car show and swap meet in Prescott, AZ showcasing some of his work.

 

Quality Chrome Plating of Santa Fe Springs, California. 562-254-0176

 

Being in CA, the owner said 10 agencies have oversight in his plating operations.  ☹️

And each one further running up the cost..............Bob

[John_S_in_Penna]

I have also used Cambridge Custom Chrome in

Cambridge, Ontario (Canada) for some pot-metal

trim pieces.  That was in the 1990's, and I was

satisfied.  I could ship the pieces to a U. S. address

near Buffalo, New York, to save the higher cost of

shipping to Canada.

 

https://www.cambridgecustomchrome.com/

 

[Century Eight]

After you decide on a shop and quality and price, make sure they don't loose the darn thing.  My first car decades ago, was a ‘31 Chevy and I took the radiator shell in to a shop in Cleveland that no longer exists ,  to get it rechromed .
After four or five months, they said they couldn’t find it.  (How do you loose a radiator shell?).   Well it finally turned up, (I was afraid they sold it) but ever since then I have been cautious.  Legitimately, very small parts could actually get lost.   Identification could fall off ,  parts get damaged, or who knows what.   Price should be just one of your considerations .

Edited August 8 by Century Eight (see edit history)

[TAKerry]

Not a chrome shop but my motor was in pieces when I sent it all to the shop for rebuilding. I have a laminator at home so I made tags and then laminated them in heavy plastic. They had the part, if it had a number and what it was for. Also had my name, phone no. and email. I double zip tied two tags on each piece, as well as took pics before I dropped them off. Now I know once they start the plating/rebuilding process they will need to come off, but at least they should be identifiable until that process starts. Could even go one step further and colour code.

[jp1gt]

I can do hydrochroming but I need to have the front and rear bumper strips done on my 29 cad  75X2" strips. I have never got anything chromed. so that I can have a rough idea of what to pay, any ideas what I am going to pay?

[Walt G]

On smaller parts IF you want to save some $ in labor, have the part deplated first , then returned, then you take care of sanding out pits of die cast white metal parts ( yes, lots of time and slowly) if dents need to be removed do that cracks need to be fixed silver solder or braze those etc.

Edited August 8 by Walt G (see edit history)

[Peter J.Heizmann]

3 hours ago, Walt G said:

On smaller parts IF you want to save some $ in labor, have the part deplated first , then returned, then you take care of sanding out pits of die cast white metal parts ( yes, lots of time and slowly) if dents need to be removed do that cracks need to be fixed silver solder or braze those etc.

Very well stated, Walt.  The cost of labor is a major part of the cost.  An addendum to filling in of dents is forget about bondo or similar material.  One must be cognizant of the fact that the smallest pit will show up after chroming.  (NOTE:  Powder coating fills in small pits to a degree however not in every case)

 

As for an aluminum “sand-cast” part they are very tricky due to the inherent porosity.  I recall a large box truck customer I had years ago.  We sand cast the roof corner caps in 319 aluminum.  My customer complained that the aluminum would turn ugly dull and I explained it was natural oxidation.  They asked me to quote polishing or chroming them for the expensive reefer bodies.  I no-quoted them due to porosity showing up.  Today I noticed they now make the corners out of plastic and they still look ugly dull.  Your pit-fix of silver solder or braze is the best when it can be done.

[Walt G]

I have done what I mention, although it has been some years but that will change this year as I have some mascots/hood ornaments that I just acquired and "need attention". .

I never ever suggest anything to restore any part etc unless I have had a "hands on" 100% participation in doing the job needed myself. This goes for learning how to paint and do body work as well when lacquer was the most popular and most available paint to use. I did two cars one right after the other and it took 2 years of every free moment I had to do it. To learn all this I had some very patient and amazing instructors who had the patience and took the time to pass on their knowledge - all now gone . Thank you Bob Patchke, Marty Haughey, Bill Orgill  and Joe Star you were my mentors in each of your skills.

[John_S_in_Penna]

On 8/6/2024 at 10:21 AM, Steve_Mack_CT said:

Any recommendations, advice or warnings on who to avoid is appreciated!

Steve, please let us know whom you choose,

and the outcome.  May you have good success.

[JoelsBuicks]

On 8/8/2024 at 8:50 AM, jp1gt said:

I can do hydrochroming but I need to have the front and rear bumper strips done on my 29 cad  75X2" strips. I have never got anything chromed. so that I can have a rough idea of what to pay, any ideas what I am going to pay?

Just had front two strips on my 28 Caddy rechromed at auto chrome plating in Houston.  They were $500 per strip.

 

 

[Steve Braverman]

I used Nassau Chrome here on Long Island a while back. They did a radiator shell for me. It came out great and the price was very good. Took a few months. Give them a shot.

https://www.nassauchrome.com/