Jump to content

New to this old car thing!


Recommended Posts

Hello, I am Jo.  I just recently purchased a 1939 Buick Special Eight 2 dr coupe.  It runs, drives and stops great after a new battery (6 volt), brake fluid and new tires.  Seems to be mostly original.  I don't know a thing about cars, mechanics or fixing things, but so far, "Betty" seems to be in great shape both mechanically and body-wise.  I'm curious as to how to figure out the info plate....According to paint number, this car was originally Acadia Grey?   Or would you think it was the Verde Green?  All of the paint is patina-ed except the trunk, which appears to have been repainted.  


Tell me what you can about this car!  Things I should look for on the car itself and the best place to get parts!  I am immediately in need of the knob for the headlights, the original crumbled in my hand.  

Betty.jpg

Info Plate.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the hobby, that's a neat looking car. As the owner you should familiarize yourself with how to check the fluids, and keep an eye on them. A running car is a wonderful thing, it allows you to get to know the car immediately. These are simple machines, look for a specific workshop manual or a Motors or Chilton manual that covers that year. Adjusting ignition points, setting the timing, and setting the valve clearance is easy enough to master, no need for electronic ignition mods. My recommendation is to maintain and keep the car in service, resist the desire to start tearing it down to do improvements or restoration. From the picture it looks like it's in primer, but it may look different, close up. A lot of people will tell you that you can't get it painted for less than 10 grand, don't believe it. There are lots of production paint shops like MAACO, and many better small shops that can do a good job for a couple of grand or less. 

Enjoy your car. Just Google for anything that it needs, and you'll get an idea about what's available.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would definitely recommend joining the

Buick Club of America.  They have technical

advisors for various eras of cars, though

1939 isn't specifically listed as having one currently.

There are also many parts suppliers who advertise

in their magazine.

 

https://www.buickclub.org/

 

You should also find a mechanic with knowledge

of your era of car.  (Don't trust it to just anyone.)

If you tell your town and state, maybe someone

here knows one.  Or contact the local region of

the AACA near you (if there is one) and ask for

references.

 

https://aaca.org/list-of-regions-chapters/

 

Welcome to the enjoyment that the old-car hobby

can provide!

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jo, you may find that your car's plastic

knobs, which commonly deteriorate, have

been reproduced.  Someone should have them.

I don't know, but try the following, or ask for

referrals and get their catalogues:

 

---Fusick Automotive (Connecticut), Phone 860-623-1589.

They have restoration parts for 1936-1976 Buicks.

---Bob's Automobilia (California), 805-434-2963.

They have parts for 1920-1958 Buicks.

www.bobsautomobilia.com.

 

You might also call Doug Seybold, a recognized expert

of Buicks of that era, especially 1940-1941.  He restores

cars too.  His published phone number is 44zero-

835-Eleven93 (Ohio).  He is sure to know sources of parts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info!  I am checking fluids regularly.  I just received shop manuals that I ordered.  I'm taking pictures and saving receipts and spending a lot of time doing research on it.  I've already read through a bunch of the threads here and learned a lot!  

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Add "https://oldbuickparts.com/" to your list of resources. I have been happy with their parts and service. They have an online catalog, too.

 

Also search the internet for other old Buick parts suppliers. There are many.

 

The AACA Buick forum further down this AACA forum list is another good resource.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Twisted Shifter (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, JoYoung said:

Thanks for the info!  I am checking fluids regularly.  I just received shop manuals that I ordered.  I'm taking pictures and saving receipts and spending a lot of time doing research on it.  I've already read through a bunch of the threads here and learned a lot!  

Well done, that is a great find!
 

You may want to consider starting a post under Me and My Buick where you can share what you are doing with your Buick as you go! It is a great way to reach out to other Buick owners for advise and parts and to share the sheer enjoyment and frustration of owning one!
 

And don’t forget the Pre-War Buick forum for technical advise and assistance from some very helpful and knowledgeable people on there!

 

Welcome aboard the Good Ship Buick!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/5/2024 at 7:40 AM, JoYoung said:

Hello, I am Jo.  I just recently purchased a 1939 Buick Special Eight 2 dr coupe.  It runs, drives and stops great after a new battery (6 volt), brake fluid and new tires.  Seems to be mostly original.  I don't know a thing about cars, mechanics or fixing things, but so far, "Betty" seems to be in great shape both mechanically and body-wise.  I'm curious as to how to figure out the info plate....According to paint number, this car was originally Acadia Grey?   Or would you think it was the Verde Green?  All of the paint is patina-ed except the trunk, which appears to have been repainted.  


Tell me what you can about this car!  Things I should look for on the car itself and the best place to get parts!  I am immediately in need of the knob for the headlights, the original crumbled in my hand.  

 

Info Plate.jpg

Welcome to the world of '39 Buick's

Many one year only parts.

More photos of the engine and interior?

 

Screwed on data plate indicates has been taken off at some time. Had big rivets from Buick. Always a possibility is from another car.

Trim 794 = Tan Bedford Cord

Paint 535 = Acadia Grey (Dark) [a very unusual color]

 

Skip Boyer, Hanover, PA (ebay seller bardroy} makes repro plastic's.  The light switch tends to fail.

And

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/188143-reproduction-knob-source/

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/390621-1939-buick-special-windowvent-crank-handle/

 

Download the 1942 Buick shop manual for free. All of it section by section. Or click the pdf link to pay.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Buick/1942/Shop Manual/

It is very comprehensive and has information that can be used with all straight 8’s.

It has more information than was included in older “Shop Manuals” before 1942

 

The best source of used pre war Buick parts is Dave Tacheny in Champlin, MN. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school:- no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460. You can also write him a letter. His address is 11949 Oregon Ave N., Champlin, MN 55316. 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

 

I would take off the rear wheel cover and later hubcaps~wheel trim, but just my opinion.

 

Edit

If will be doing your own work on the car these books are useful. $50 each is OK

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/419315-for-sale-buick-1928-1954-body-parts-book-and-chassis-parts-book/

 

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The more you drive it the better it will run. Try to put a minimum of 30 miles per week on it. That doesn't sound like much but there are a lot of serious collectors who don't.

 

Budget about $600 per year for minimum maintenance. Over a ten year period that will comes out to $6,000. When you drive needed repairs will surface. If you don't drive it will seem very low cost to own.

 

Some years you won't need it all. Some years will seem way over.

 

Driving and maintaining the car will always keep it at its highest value.

 

If possible split the money spent 50/50 between mechanical and cosmetic work. This will also maintain a high value.

 

Avoid jobs that take the car out of service for more than a week. Component restoration is a philosophy to embrace.

 

The least expensive thing you can do with a care is disassemble it. Once done you will find there are a minimum of 300 $100 jobs to put it back together. Half or a quarter of that works proportionally.

 

Do not throw stuff around as seen on old car TV shows and house remodeling shows.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recommend having a competent old car mechanic give it a thorough safety inspection. Brake hoses and lines, brake lining, hand brake, steering and suspension components, wiring, etc.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...