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1924 Buick Master 6 intake/exhaust


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Hi all

 

I am in need of some assistance. I am working on a 1928 dire truck that has a 1924 Buick Master 6 powering it. Just did the head gasket and have found that the flange connecting the intake and exhaust was purposefully blocked with thin metal and a gasket. You can see them on the photo. 

 

Additionally the tube that runs through it must have rusted out and when the engine was rebuilt was covered with silicone. 

 

Information on this engine is rare though I did find the head torque and sequence on this site.

 

Any advice on how to proceed?

 

Appreciate any assistance you can offer. 

 

 

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You may want to post this in the PreWar Buick section as there a a great bunch of knowledgeable people there who can advise. Helped me a lot with my ‘38 when I was tinkering.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

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Rodney is correct as to posting this on the Buick Pre-War site. If you could give the serial # of the engine it would be helpful as the manifold and riser you show is not from a 1924 engine. The 1924 intake manifold has a square shape. It is a from 1926 or later. The metal plate is a usual adaptation to blocking off manifold heat. Modern fuel does not need this preheating. The inner sleeve will need to be replaced. A good muffler shop can find a close to size exhaust tube and expand it to fit.  I have 3 risers that need to be resleeved. I bought several NOS HYGrade replacement sleeves with their original packaging labled for my 1925 Standard and one for my 1925 Master from BOB's Automobilia. Neither are even close! I recently pressed out a rusted sleeve from a 1924 riser.  

fi161.jpg.43c014883eeabab7c3f05a92a8bdbdae.jpg  1924 Buick 6 cylinder. Heat by-pass tube is part of the aluminum Marvel Model R carburetor.

DSCF2650.JPG.711f69489823077b1280cf2fa5fed92c.JPG 1926 Master engine.

DSCF6050.JPG.63ffdeea3057436392119cc514bda74d.JPG 1927 Master engine. Note both of these 1926 and 1927 engines had been using the heat bypass system. Black exhaust staining.

 

 

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That silicone will never hold up to the engine heat.  

Find the engine serial plate on the exhaust side of the engine block.  Provide that number and we can tell you the engine year.  A photo of the engine and the fire truck would be nice:-).  

This is the fuel preheat system.  It is no longer necessary with todays fuels.  It does require blanking plates in 3 places.

You must blank off both ends of the exhaust flow in the vertical heat riser tube.

You should remove the butterfly in the exhaust divertor and add that blanking plate in the divertor end, but this one is not as critical.

 

Technically, if you blank off and seal both ends of the exhaust portion of the heat riser, it should not matter if the inside tubing has holes in it.  You cannot have any leakage outside of the intake manifold.   

Solder or a high temperature epoxy would be a better choice to plug any pinholes in that inner tubing if you are not going to replace it.

 

You should also look at the postings on Marvel carburter rebuilding - if you are still running an original carburetor.  

 

You should also do future posts regarding the engine on the Buick PreWar site.   Hugh

 

Exhaustdivertorvalve1.JPG.59f833a698413001d0fea2a16514bd5a.JPGExhaustdivertorvalve2.JPG.08ec803f11881e7c127c0d7b4d9378ed.JPGExhaustdivertorvalve3.JPG.bb5883174712a6d8e021442ac32f6b68.JPGExhaustdivertorvalve4.JPG.b4f45794ea158f9b0690f602ce773cad.JPGExhaustdivertorvalve5.JPG.b58028d4d716fbd36e66404bca10e497.JPGExhaustdivertorvalve6.JPG.3cddcdd39331e87b7e3171292c240f8d.JPG

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