Lahti35 Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Looking for the appropriate 1918-1921 NorthEast #10110 condenser. Does not need to work, just need a core to send to Romar for a rebuild. PM works best. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 I'm sure it's technically all wrong but I've had good luck using chain saw condensers on V8s and vice versa. A condenser with the proper values is ideal but one that passes the analog ohm meter jump test should be fine for troubleshooting purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 There are two types, one has a single wire and one has two wires, I understand that the “rebuild” is the inserting of a modern condenser in the old can but the can fits neatly in the distributor body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 1 hour ago, Minibago said: There are two types, one has a single wire and one has two wires, I understand that the “rebuild” is the inserting of a modern condenser in the old can but the can fits neatly in the distributor body. From the pics on romars website it's the 2 wire pre-1921 type I need. I figured it was just putting a new condenser inside the old housing, I'm a stickler for looking correct! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 The two wire fits the 10000 distributor from 1918. I think you have a 10004, stamped on the side of the housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Try (oldbuicks) a member of this forum, he will have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 (edited) Which ignition switch do you have? Is it the turn 360 degrees going off-on, off-on, off-on... or just turn one click to the right for on? If just one click to the right to on, would have been matched with the single wire type. The other type of switch reversed the polarity to points each for each click when turning and would use the two-wire type. The switching of polarity to the points was to even out the wear to the contacts. Edited May 28 by Mark Gregush changed word (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 Thanks guys, I'll check the distributor number and the ignition switch later today and see what I've got.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 No stamped numbers on my distributor tag I can see... just the NE model # O. The ignition/light switch has 3 positions: off, dim, and on as well as the key part that doesn't move very well. I was hesitant to try and move it much as the key is so thin from wear I don't want to break it. If anybody has a decent Clum DB97 key I could use it, no luck on ebay currently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 The off, dim and on are only for the lights and don't have any bearing on the ignition. You will need to get the key part freed up but will need the correct key first if you don't have one. If you need one, start a new parts wanted post here, check with Myers or ROMAR, or eBay (don't buy the first one you see some are way overpriced in my OP) Here is a sample of the Off/on type switch that would be used with the single pigtail condenser. CLUM DB30 Vintage Ignition Key Light Dash Switch Dodge Brothers Hupmobile Nash | eBay What I think is; the O type distributor all have 2 threaded holes no matter which switch is used, at least the 4 that I have. Only one those that actually had a dual pigtail condenser installed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 9 hours ago, Mark Gregush said: If you need one, start a new parts wanted post here, check with Myers or ROMAR, or eBay (don't buy the first one you see some are way overpriced in my OP) Sage advise! I talked with Myers today and inquired about a key while ordering parts and they had one so that's all set. The original key is worn down to 1/3 it's original thickness and flexes, never see the backside of a key so thin as it's totally smoothed over. That ignition switch looks like mine on the front. I'll look at the backside tomorrow and see what I see... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 Snapped some pics and it looks like the key only goes right to "ON" and back again to "OFF". Backside: I also found that my dizzy is a 10004 so i'm thinking the one wire condenser is the one for me... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30DodgePanel Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 12 hours ago, Lahti35 said: I talked with Myers today and inquired about a key while ordering parts and they had one so that's all set. The original key is worn down to 1/3 it's original thickness and flexes, never see the backside of a key so thin as it's totally smoothed over. Amazing it survived this long. It tells me she's had plenty of use. Definitely a keeper for the next lucky caretaker if you ever decide to sell it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 1 minute ago, 30DodgePanel said: Amazing it survived this long. It tells me she's had plenty of use. Definitely a keeper for the next lucky caretaker if you ever decide to sell it. For sure, it'll stay with the car... I hope the newer key works better, the old one doesn't seem to work well as the teeth are worn too. Somebody got their money's worth if of the key, no doubt! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 The original keys were of a normal thickness and when in use they just sit there so it is not possible to wear away 2 thirds of the thickness evenly in normal use. I too have a few keys like this and I feel that they were a cheap thin replacement sometime in the past. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 The reason the switch may operate tightly is it may need lubrication. There is pot metal in them that swells over time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30DodgePanel Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 (edited) 2 hours ago, Minibago said: The original keys were of a normal thickness and when in use they just sit there so it is not possible to wear away 2 thirds of the thickness evenly in normal use. I too have a few keys like this and I feel that they were a cheap thin replacement sometime in the past. He didn't say 2/3, he said 1/3 (simple estimate on his part I'm sure). I have an original Master lock key (not a cheap version) that lost it's thickness and I only use it 2 times a week. The key code is worn badly and I'm close to needing the spare at this point as it's starting to get loose. Years ago I did purchase matching keys and locks at the time just in case and they've sat on the shelf with little use. The reason I think this key is so worn is because it twisted and turned on my side for 25 years of labor, walking, crawling, climbing and I'm sure the metal key ring had a role in the wear (not to mention the times it went in and out of the metal cylinder). I think if we were to add another 30-70 years of use to my Master key example, it's possible it could wear down as Lahti's key did in the right circumstance depending on what type of key ring it was on. Notice the numbers on the stem are practically gone now and the key code on the head is really starting to fade. Everything was very legible at one point, so keys do wear. You can tell by the stock that this is not a cheap key. If the one he has was a cheaper version (as you say) then it's possible that even more wear occured. Clearly the teeth are more rounded on my Master key than originally. Edited May 31 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old buicks 2 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Lahti35, I have the 10110 condenser in stock that has already been rebuilt. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 On 5/31/2024 at 8:58 AM, 30DodgePanel said: He didn't say 2/3, he said 1/3 (simple estimate on his part I'm sure). I have an original Master lock key (not a cheap version) that lost it's thickness and I only use it 2 times a week. The key code is worn badly and I'm close to needing the spare at this point as it's starting to get loose. Years ago I did purchase matching keys and locks at the time just in case and they've sat on the shelf with little use. The reason I think this key is so worn is because it twisted and turned on my side for 25 years of labor, walking, crawling, climbing and I'm sure the metal key ring had a role in the wear (not to mention the times it went in and out of the metal cylinder). I think if we were to add another 30-70 years of use to my Master key example, it's possible it could wear down as Lahti's key did in the right circumstance depending on what type of key ring it was on. Notice the numbers on the stem are practically gone now and the key code on the head is really starting to fade. Everything was very legible at one point, so keys do wear. You can tell by the stock that this is not a cheap key. If the one he has was a cheaper version (as you say) then it's possible that even more wear occured. Clearly the teeth are more rounded on my Master key than originally. My apologies, I thought worn down “to 1/3 rd of it’s original thickness” meant that 2/3rds was worn away. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30DodgePanel Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Yep, he did say 2/3... you are correct. According to the photos in the other thread, I'd say he's onto something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 On 6/5/2024 at 8:12 PM, Old buicks 2 said: Lahti35, I have the 10110 condenser in stock that has already been rebuilt. Tom If the 10110 is the one with two pig tails, after asking a few questions, he would need the single pig tail one. He has the off-on switch not the off-on off-on... 360 turn switch that changes the polarity to the points each time the car is turned on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 Hi guys, I found the correct 1 wire unit. I got lucky, it's on my workbench now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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