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Repainting


Richard F

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I have an early 1930's full classic with a few problems in a 13 year old nitrocellulose lacquer paint job. Some crazing, a number of stone chips, and a few areas that look like water spots, but aren't.... due, I suspect to defective prep 13 years ago. I've been thinking that one of these days I am going to see about having it repainted. I also live in California where air quality rules have pretty much made lacquer paint unavailable, including apparently, acrylic lacquer.

What is the current thinking about using modern two-part paints versus acrylic lacquer vs nitrocellulose lacquer on a classic? I am not rigidly devoted to using only authentic 1930's materials, but I do want to keep the car as authentic looking as possible. I suppose I could make arrangements with a shop in northern Nevada if I knew of a good one that worked with lacquer there.

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I live in southern CA and you can purchase/spray nitrocellulose and acrylic lacquer if you are the owner of the car and not doing for personal use. Smaller restoration shops can spray lacquer if they keep the car for no less than two months (this regulation keeps commercial shops from using lacquer). Auto Color Library (http://autocolorlibrary.com/P101.html) can make and ship any color you want. Check with your local Air Pollution Control District. They should have someone who can fill you in on the details. If I can do it in Southern CA, you should be able to in NorCal.

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I also live in Northern California and painted a Model A a couple of years ago. I plan to paint my current car in about a year, so I'm thinking about this too. I used lacquer on the Ford, but due to the amount of work involved I won't do it again, life is too short. I plan to use a one step urethane, it's good paint and doesn't need any of the sanding and buffing. I want to spend the largest amount of time prepping the surfaces to be painted, so I'm sure it will look good.

I've meet two fellows that did their own painting using this type of paint with wonderful results. One had a 1937 Cadillac and the other a 29 Model A Coupe. Both used the more expensive German brand that I'm told is more forgiving and easier to use. I'm not considering the two step base and clear coat paints because when dry, they seem too glossy for a car made in the 1920's. That's my 2 cents, BTW, Jim Wells at Color Library can mix your exact color, he has 16000 on file.

Rick

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