TomServo Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 I am the new owner of 208527! I drove it 500 miles home directly after purchasing it. The drive went surprisingly well, and I'm elated to finally be an owner of a TC. I am working on a brake fluid leak problem that I think I have narrowed down to the seal between the accumulator and the spacer. When I am driving and press the brake, the red + yellow brake + ABS lights come on but then go off again after a moment. This is the pump having to re-pressurize the accumulator a little bit each time I press the brake, due to the small leak? I'd love to know if I am understanding correctly how the system works. The speedometer does not work, but the odometer and trip do. The cruise control also doesn't work, which is likely why I am getting fault code 34. I'm not sure if these are related somehow. Sometimes when I was cruising at 60-65mph it would feel like it was shuddering a bit and that would last for maybe 10 seconds, then it would stop. They were small micro-shudders, like the car was getting pushed by tiny strong gusts of wind? To me, that sounds like it could be a tourque converter problem, but hopefully is just some easy sensor that needs replaced? I am determined to keep this TC on the road and welcome any and all advice you'd have for a new owner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 PM sent to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild bill Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 Welcome to the group Tom. Your issues are above my pay grade like most mechanical things. You'll find lots of great help on this site. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomServo Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Hello all, I have an update! Mainly, the accumulator I bought worked as I hoped it would. I bought this accumulator for $100 at Rock Auto > LAND ROVER > 1995 > RANGE ROVER > 3.9L V8: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13793829&cc=1422896&pt=1580&jsn=8 ÜRO PARTS STC2784. I hope this helps someone in the future in the same situation as I was. It was half the price of the wabco one and I was willing to take a chance on $100 Easy replacement of the original that was still on mine. I also found the front driver brake hose had a hole in it that I was able to fix. Bled all the lines and got some junky old DOT 3 out and refreshed with new. Test drive went well. Both the accumulator and the brake hose had little things needed to make them work but only minor things. Tomorrow I'm doing another test drive to triple check the brake system before putting in the transmission speed sensor and taking it for a cruise to see if I can replicate the intermittent shuddering I felt before. The check engine light can't make up it's mind if it wants to stay on or not when I start the car, we'll see if that continues after resetting tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomServo Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Update incoming. Brakes still work great, so that accumulator is definitely working out. The Speed Sensor had no effect, still no speedometer...guess the instrument cluster is the problem. Not a big deal. Odometer and trip still work fine. Engine seems to run great, idling well and not sputtering about. Feels smooth, fun to drive. Only thing was the oil pressure gauge points at 7 o'clock when hot and idling at a stop light, and the "Low Oil" light comes on until I start moving again. I dunno...this seems fine to me? I had a dodge dynasty that acted similarly. Am I wrong? Now for the transmission. Once it gets up to I guess 3rd gear and going into 4th, somewhere around there, it feels like it can't decide if it wants to shift or engage the torque converter or do both and is slippery but it goes away once it figures it out (until next time). The fluid looked and smelled fine to me. The car was definitely hot and it was measuring to the tippity top of the hot area, filling in that highest hole on the dipstick while following the instructions in the owner's manual. Maybe the input/output things on the transmission? Or, the TCM? hopefully an honest transmission shop will be able to diagnose and hopefully an easy fix. What do ya'll think? Is this common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 So Tom, when are you going to join the TCA Owners club? This forum is not part of that club, but many TCA members ‘hang out’ here to both help new owners of the TC and have conversation with other owners. Yu ask some interesting questions such as this one about oil pressure. I would suspect that you may have a defective ‘oil pressure sending unit’ since you mention the oil light comes on at idle. As for the speedometer, most problems there are just the opposite, the speed indicating needle works but the odometers do not. Under Chrysler’s TC by Maserati is a link to the club click on it for information on how to join. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomServo Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 Hemi Dude for now I've got a $5,500 quote on getting this car back to 100% that I need to worry about, so I might need that $45. Transmission rebuild, tie rods, tires, alignment, valve cover gasket, cam plugs. I'm not even sure it is worth it at this point...I feel a bit defeated. I could do all this and then something else just as costly will probably happen to it like the master cylinder or timing belt/water pump and still not be any further along just further in the hole. I am determined to get it back on the road but it might be through repairs over a span of time, even though I want to be driving it right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild bill Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 TomServo, if your cam plug is the same as the cam seal on my 89 2.2L it was $5 and easy to put in. Bought it at a parts store. You have scratched the surface of info available from mechanics that know these cars inside and out. Dont be shy about asking, no stupid questions right. Give as much detailed information as possible. Also and you probably know this when there is an issue, there is usually a logical process to trouble shooting. Most of us love our cars and help all we can. And we, I love beer lots of beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted May 16 Share Posted May 16 Bill, this is a 3.0L TC with the 4 speed ‘Ultradrive’ transaxle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomServo Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 (edited) I finally have an update. Transmission rebuilt, valve cover gaskets, cam plugs, tie rods, main seal. Very happy with how it came out, despite it taking 1.5 months. I thought I had gotten the brakes working 100% but now the Anti-Lock light never goes off, which I think means it doesn't think it has the right pressure built up? The hydraulic motor whirs normally and stops normally, maybe it is just the sensor I'm not sure but the brakes seem to be working fine it is just the light that worries me a bit due to how common and expensive the issue is regardless if it gets changed to regular brake booster or I need a new pump. Oil pressure sensor is likely borked, as a few have suggested. Speedometer still doesn't work, and in general the gauges are wonky. RPMs gauge is sticky and not smooth. I don't think the coolant temperature is very accurate. Another TC kept on the road where it belongs! Edit: the Anti-Lock light has gone off and stayed off...I am not sure that is right either. Maybe something with the sensors after doing tie rods? I'd be sad if the master cylinder was going out. Edited June 29 by TomServo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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