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Marvel updraft carburettor, 1928 Buick


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Hello everyone,

 

I am in the process of rebuilding my carb but can't find a gasket kit. I have resolved to make my own but am unsure of the best material to use. The carb is a Marvel and the patents on the float bowl cover plate are from 1907, 1912, and 1921 respectively. I am completely unfamiliar with how an updraft carb works so if anyone can shed some light on the basic principles i'd appreciate it.

 

I have rebuilt my vacuum tank and had my fuel tank epoxy coated inside ready to take fuel but the signal wire from the tank for the gauge was compromised in the disassembly phase. Does anyone know if a replacement can be found anywhere? I had a go at making my own out of a roto-rooter styled plumbing auger sleeved into a neoprene conduit. It seems to work even though I used a slightly thicker gauge wire than the original but only time will tell when I fill the tank to get the float back up then calibrate the gauge. 

 

Thanks in advance.

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Here is an article to take you thru rebuilding and checking the carburetor and the heating system.   Gaskets are 1/64 paper.  Make yourself or Olsons Gaskets may have them.  

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/372573-1920s-buick-marvel-carburetor-rebuilding/#comment-2311177

 

Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Not quite.

 

Currently 6~8 weeks.

 

Yes, each one is made when an order is received.

 

We have 128 different Marvel carburetors listed, for which there are 61 different kits. 

 

It is very simply NOT economically feasible to mass reproduce fuel valves (very few are used in more than 1 kit), and even worse for the downdraft carbs are the accelerator pumps.

 

We average 40~50 Marvel kits annually (mostly thanks to the folks on this forum).

 

By far, our best selling Marvel kit is for the 1926~1928 Standard Buick (we average 6 annually).

 

Jon

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Thanks Hugh,

 

you never disappoint with your valuable information. I made the gaskets myself and replaced all the crush washers. No leaks but have a no start problem. The timing is out I believe but could also be the Venturi not allowing the air valve to seat flush to the wall as I recall seeing this before I reinstalled it, which was before I read your article.

 

I mention the timing because I noticed my steering wheel control no longer works as some of the teeth on the gear assembly at the base of the column are missing. Tried to order these from Bob’s Automobilia but they are out of stock. Does anyone else have a source for these?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Craig.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Highlifer said:

Hi Jon,

 

is the Carburetor Shop located in Minnesota?

 

 

50 plus years ago, when I was still in college, and took a marketing class; the instructor suggested that if any of us were to ever start our own business, name it a name that customers would easy remember and identify with the product.

 

So, a shop doing carburetors??? How about "The Carburetor Shop"???

 

The only problem? I think 49 others took the same class!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;) Over the decades,we have sold product to "The Carburetor Shop" in maybe 15 different states!

 

My "The Carburetor Shop" is located in Missouri. (Noted in my signature block).

 

Jon

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Okay Jon,

 

I checked out your website but wanted to make sure you could fill my order for one of your Marvel rebuild kits. I think I have established that my car is a Buick Mclaughlin (Canadian) Country Club Coupe (114" wheel base). The patent dates on the float bowl cover plate are for the years 1907, 1912, and 1921 respectively. I am worried that if I try to call your business line my Canadian number will get redirected to voice mail as a result of that feature you wisely opted for. Are you able to quote me a price on here then I could fill out the order form and send it via email complete with payment details?

 

What components specifically do you supply for Marvel carbs, for instance do you remanufacture Venturis or do you just supply the gaskets. I am also interested in blanking plates.

 

PS, I applaud your efforts in the maintaining the Richardson Cemetery.

 

Craig

IMG_0268.jpeg

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Craig, 

   In the link that I posted, you will find the people that make the venturi blocks.  Not a normal carburetor repair part.   This will allow the air valve to sit against the inner wall of the carburetor.  I mention this because your photo shows the big air valve screw adjusted out too far and compensating for the poor venturi block.  It should essentially be flush with the end of the indexing tab.  But don't just screw it in until the block is replaced, otherwise that will put excess pressures on the spring.  

 There are also notes on the blanking plates - making them or have Olsons Gaskets make them.  You can find small sheets of copper on Ebay.  Easy to cut with tin snips.  Put the copper between 2 pieces of wood while drilling to prevent the drill from grabbing the thin sheetmetal, and go up in drill size and not a large hole all at once.     Hugh  

 

IMG_7353.JPG.66a355779764c544634558e95b5b45b9.JPG

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Thanks Hugh,

 

I am up north working in the Oilsands but when I fly home in a week I intend to get cracking on this asap. I notice the air flow metering valve screw on the bottom of the one in the picture you provided was practically all the way in.

 

Any idea where I could get a gear set for the spark advance and throttle controls at the bottom of the steering column? 

 

Craig

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Craig, if the part number on your gear is 252693 I have a set. They came off a 1925 master series car.  If you do a google search of  Buick pre war throttle control bevel gear that should pull up that thread from March 2021.    Leon in Summerland BC.  

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Craig - if your carburetor is from a 1928 Buick and is a Marvel, we need the following information:

 

The "10" number on the cast iron piece

 

10/103 is a Standard

10/105 is a Master

 

Each could have a brass lower casting, or a die-cast (zinc alloy) lower casting

 

FOUR DIFFERENT KITS, one year Buick! You can see why we like to talk to folks via telephone!

 

Typically, our kits for Marvel carburetors contain: a complete gasket set including the mounting gasket, a new fuel valve (a.k.a. needle and seat), a new air valve spring (the CORRECT one), the pontoon portion of the float (you reuse your old float arm), and the screws that hold the carburetor together. The new float pontoon is machined from the modern closed cellular foam.

 

Check your messages for pricing.

 

Jon

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...
On 4/10/2024 at 1:11 PM, garnetkid said:

Craig, if the part number on your gear is 252693 I have a set. They came off a 1925 master series car.  If you do a google search of  Buick pre war throttle control bevel gear that should pull up that thread from March 2021.    Leon in Summerland BC.  

Hi Leon,

 

from what I can discern so far the lower/smaller gear set has the same number you quoted, 252693, however the one above/larger set bear the number 254939. Is it possible they are a mismatched set? There is evidence that the mounting hardware for the lower gear is not original. I would be interested in purchasing what you have and go from there as I definitely need to replace all four of the toothed arrangements on my lower column. Many teeth are missing from both sets. Can you take a closer look at the serial number on all that you have and see if we still have a match please?

 

Craig in Leduc, Alberta

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Hi Craig, I have two sets of those gears  and the numbers are the same as your numbers so they are not mismatched.  send me a PM or phone me at 250 494 five zero five one, preferably in the early evening.  Leon

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