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1925 buick standard - rear axle - 4 questions: eliminate torque tube + eliminate contracting band brakes & convert to brake shoes with 5 stud pattern + convert to LSD centre

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Hi all,

I'm looking at building a speedster out of the oarts I have and really like the riveted look of the old rear axle but am not very excited about the torque tube... or brakes ... or live axle..

I have four questions:

has anyone kept the rear axle and eliminated the torque tube and converted to an open drive shaft?

Has anyone converted the same axle to a LS centre?

Has anyone converted the contracting band brakes to conventional shoes with a five stud pattern?

Has anyone got an idea on what the diff ratio might be?

(please don't laugh at the questions.... :-)...


Specifics and photos would be fantastic for each




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Before diving into this, first decide how much time and $ you are willing to spend re-engineering a rear axle. 
Do you have your own machine shop with racks of material suitable for making axle shafts and machines capable of modifying a housing, or are you relying on outside machine shops to build parts needed? 
Have you considered how this conversion will work with cantilevered rear springs with pivoting spring hanger over the axle housing ? 
The stock axle was the result of years of incremental improvements and revisions which continued through the 20's making many components interchangeable for very few years. 
It would be far simpler for you to find another axle that meets your needs and add decorative rivets.

just my 2 cents. 


Edited by Oregon Desert model 45
edit (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, raydurr said:

Id swap the Buick for a Model A if I was dead set on making these changes.


Model A Fords have a torque tube system as well. Only thing to gain is the internal expanding service brakes and a common 5 stud pattern. If one wants a period car that came with an open drive line, (Hotchkiss) Packard or Studebaker would be an option.





Edited by AzBob (see edit history)
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The complete suspension would have to be changed. The cantilever spring setup isn't designed to take the forward push of the drive wheels, that pressure goes on the torque tube to the motor and the big engine mounts on the clutch housing. 

Axle ratio is going to be 4.7, 4.9 or 5.1 to 1  depending which ring gear is installed. 

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