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Standard six head gasket


Dsweld

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I am new owner of 1928 model 26s with standard six engine and I know it had no antifreeze in the engine when I received it so last nite I put couple gallons in and it started leaking under the manifold side at what I believe is the head gasket. Oil looks good but it’s not running at this time. I can’t tell you last time it did run but prior owner said he had it turning over. Can anyone add any information on what they see from pictures. I can’t get a video to post but I’ll try to add link. Thanks 

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Edited by Dsweld (see edit history)
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I haven’t gotten that far into it yet as it’s pretty cold here. I’ll try to post whole video link I took last nite. It seems to be coming from head gasket area from what I can see. I’m hoping it’s not block related. I would like to use this motor as its original from what I can tell 

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  • Dsweld changed the title to Standard six head gasket

The leaks look gnarly. You should pull the head and check it out. You could have a rust out ( bad) or Just the gasket. 

Definitely standard engine. 

 

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How did you repair the cracks or did you replace the bloc. What would be the best place to purchase gaskets. I see Olsons has them. Would anyone have a source on engine in upstate ny if I need one thanks 

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I pulled off side covers and valve cover. I was really surprised at how clean the engine is and everything looks ok but I am going to put more antifreeze in it to see if I can find exactly where it’s leaking from. I believe it’s the head gasket. I will tell you what I find thanks. 

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It sure looks as though that engine was apart shortly before it was parked.  How difficult would it be to drop the oil pan?  A look inside may give a clue as to the extent of the work performed previously.

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I can’t drop the pan just yet as it’s in a storage container but I mite be able to get inspection camera in there if I drain oil. It’s clear looking oil for sure. I’m hoping just head gasket but if it is cracked I mite be able to fix it. I’ve done few over the years and had good luck with it. I’ll try to get a better video of leak tomorrow. Thanks 

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On 1/18/2024 at 5:43 PM, EmTee said:

A look inside may give a clue as to the extent of the work performed previously.

       Removing the pan and having a qualified mechanic inspect the lower end is the only way to determine for, (relatively), certain it's condition but my approach is to learn as much as possible before disassembly/disabling.

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I would remove pan but it’s a little too cold for me at the moment. I’m planning on doing more work once the weather gets warmer atleast 30s. It’s a high of 10 today. But yes thoroughly inspected is what the plan is to determine the condition of the engine thanks 

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Well I pulled head today and cylinders look in good shape and the head. I think the gasket was original and dried out. It looked like a felt gasket. The bolts came out decent and with a little prying the head came off. Where is the most reasonable place to get a head gasket from. What would the torque sequence or the foot lb be for head bolts. I have a book but it’s a fisher body book on the wooden parts I thought it was mechanical book. 

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I’ll post some pictures of the head gasket and head. Where could I find a torque sequence and spec. The valves look good but I’ll clean and check for leakage. Thanks I’m excited to try and get it up and running. The last time was registered was in 1960 in Pennsylvania. 

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I see a bit of rust plugging the water passages to the head.  Be sure to clean these out.  Also consider installing a GANO filter in the upper radiator hose to catch this and kep it out of the radiator.  Once you install the head, I would remove the lower water pump hose and do a back flush on the block (water in on the head) to remove residual rust.

 

Including notes on installing the head from Larry DiBarry.  I agree with his procedure and I follow the same practice.  Since you have removed the head studs, be sure to put thread sealant in the threaded holes and on the threads of the head studs.  Also a note on how to torque the head studs if you opt to not remove the rocker shaft.  It is a best practice to retorque the head after a couple hundred miles. 

Torque sequence is from the 1926 Buick export manual.  I also used 60 ft lbs for my cylinder head.  

Hugh  

 

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That’s what I was going to do is to flush and run brush down the coolant passages to get as clean as I can. If I can pull pan I will to check bearings. I did remove rockers but that’s ok. Thanks for the detailed specs

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