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1925-25x Clutch and oil leaks


Buick Downunder

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Hi All

 

planning to pull the engine to inspect clutch and ring gear which was last serviced more than 60 years ago (at best). Clutch slips very slightly when hot and I suspect gearbox and/or rear main seal issues. What have others found in this area is the main cause for oil on clutch linings?  Also, have people been reconditioning the 6 plate clutch or upgrading. I prefer to keep things standard unless there is probable cause to modify. Thanks very much - Ben. IMG_1685.jpeg.6f60ebea1ed5e2f78af9c21aae3aee79.jpeg

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Ben. Wishing you a happy Christmas season and a great New Year.

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We have not connected for a while. Hugh will be the one to give a better response. As you recall I had my engine rebuilt and it seems to perform as intended. We did 860 miles this past summer. I had redone my clutch prior to the rebuild. I had lost one of the facings and it would stick in gear prior to that. The one facing was disintigrating with most of it ending up in the starter gear galley.

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I am still getting oil on the outter most facing (transmission side). I did not adress a better way of providing a seal on the transmission input shaft.  I believe Hugh did on his restoration. Also I probably should have done new bearings and such in the transmission. There is much clutch chatter particuarly in trying to do a rolling start in 2nd gear. If the clutch is relined properly it should last for another 98 years!

 

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Thank you and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too!  Great to hear you are doing some good miles in the Buick.
 

It is interesting that your clutch caused build up in the starter gears as my engine is currently locking up and it isn’t the auxiliary shaft or main engine areas from what I can see. I recently replaced the auxiliary shaft and worked on starter motor so I thought it was that - but alas it it something else. I have taken the front timing cover off and all looks OK there so I suspect the clutch, ring gear or starter gears hence my query. 

 

I plan to take the motor out this week, which will no doubt be a can of worms - but everything was working pretty well before sitting so I hope it isn’t anything serious. 
 

More questions to come I suspect. Good to hear from you!

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Ben

If there is still something locking up, then check the starter clutch.  Its that stacked pair of gears next to the starter in Larry's photo above. Its a one way clutch, so the gears should be locked in one direction and slip in the opposite.   If it is locked solid in both directions it will have to come out to get old hardened grease cleaned out.   Check it first and we will get into the details if is locked.

Kevin

Edited by Oregon Desert model 45
edit (see edit history)
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Ben, 

    Happy holidays.  Attached is the thread regarding the clutch discs that I had made.  I bought them in bulk at the time and had a half dozen sets made.  I do know that later a person bought a single set from these people, so you could do the same or try to source this material in Australia.  The clutch works very nicely with new friction material.  Better to be made from these discs than the old webbing with the cut ends.  My clutch is still smooth but I think Larry is putting more miles on than I am, so I need to get with the program.  

Not sure why you are pulling the engine.  I would slide the rear axle back and drop the transmission.  Fewer items to deal with and easy if you remove the floorboards.

Pay close attention to the flywheel, but I don't think oil from the engine can get to the clutch parts. 

I did install a lip seal on the transmission input shaft when I had the transmission out of my car.  Just looking at the set up it looked like cheap insurance.  I do not know if this was a problem back in the day.  My car was non running when I bought it.   

They also used to use 600W in the transmission back in the day, and I hate the stuff.  My transmission does not shift well on it.  I use a blend of 60% Lucas 80/90 synthetic gear oil and 40% Lucas HD oil stabilizer.  A recommendation from the Ford Model A club.  Available locally and I find shifting improved with it.  

Hugh 

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Raise the back of the car as Larry shows.  Open the axle pivots to allow moving the rear axle to the rear.  Feel free to take the wheels off and then you do not need to lift the vehicle as high.  I usually lift the car a few inches to get the frame on the jack stands.  Then I put the jack under the rear axle center and remove the wheels.   Then I can slide the rear axle back on the floor jack.      

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Remove these 4 bolts on the output flange.   Slide the axle assembly back.  The rear axle only needs to go back about 6 inches to clear the transmission.  

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I built drive shaft supports which is totally an option.  Two different types shown.  Feel free to just set the rear axle on the floor. 

Note:  You will need a driveshaft support like this if you are going to remove the engine and transmission as a unit.  Observe how the pillow bearings for the rear axle on the 

end of the springs are not going to support the rear axle when you remove it from the tranmission.  The spring shackles are going to move if you set any weight on the rear

wheels without holding the driveshaft.  And the U bolt driveshaft holder is a better design.  Both holders used existing holes in the frame.  

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My final comment is that for a clutch job, it is much easier to raise the rear of the car and move the rear axle towards the back. 

Hugh 

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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On 12/27/2023 at 5:06 AM, Buick Downunder said:

Also, have people been reconditioning the 6 plate clutch or upgrading. I prefer to keep things standard unless there is probable cause to modify. Thanks very much - Ben. 

 

I reconditioned my clutch (mine is 10 plates) with much help from Hubert. It works perfectly now.

 

I made this video during the job:

 

 

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