Alternator? Voltage regulator?

[shelbyone]

well...former owner replace the alternator....yesterday, I got these symptoms...and it seems like it is not charging the battery anymore...( the day before I checked and it was 14.2 volts at the battery....

checked grounds and connections....I suspect it might be the 2019 alternator that is already failing....

 

any other ideas?

 

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lb1cj7abwlkk8ndz4pt5g/ALTERNATOR.mp4?rlkey=snljtzqc8b84s9mapvuc3ksg3&dl=0

[Hemi Dude]

3 hours ago, shelbyone said:

well...former owner replace the alternator....yesterday, I got these symptoms...and it seems like it is not charging the battery anymore...( the day before I checked and it was 14.2 volts at the battery....

checked grounds and connections....I suspect it might be the 2019 alternator that is already failing....

 

any other ideas?

 

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lb1cj7abwlkk8ndz4pt5g/ALTERNATOR.mp4?rlkey=snljtzqc8b84s9mapvuc3ksg3&dl=0

The alternator is controlled by the Voltage regulator which is located in the engine control module, you know, that black plastic box next to your battery, the SBEC. It is integrated into the circuit board and is not a replaceable ‘part’.

There may be a possibility that it is only a wiring problem that could be traced out, but if you have made MAJOR modifications to the electrical system on this car, WHO KNOWS?

 

You have a Mitsubishi 3.0L powered vehicle with a Japanese made alternator, I drive a 1985 Plymouth Voyager with the same engine and same type alternator. [Admittedly, the van came with the 2.6L four cylinder engine. I installed the 3.0L ] So far in all the years I have driven this vehicle, over 265,000 miles, the same alternator [NEVER REBUILT] is still hanging on to its mounting brackets on that engine. Frankly, the GREATEST problem with alternators are the REBUILDERS who ‘repair’ them with inferior parts.  It has been that way throughout my 60+ years in the industry. 

[shelbyone]

1 hour ago, Hemi Dude said:

Hey Hemi!

yes,..a couple of modifications...but I dont think that an active bass and a new head unit would cause so much trouble...what about an alarm system?

anyway...I ordered a 120 Amp alternator....I will also check out the SBEC in detail .....as soon as all these things are done, I will report back

alternator arrives tuesday/wednesday...

and I have to deal with my wiper issue....grrrr

The alternator is controlled by the Voltage regulator which is located in the engine control module, you know, that black plastic box next to your battery, the SBEC. It is integrated into the circuit board and is not a replaceable ‘part’.

There may be a possibility that it is only a wiring problem that could be traced out, but if you have made MAJOR modifications to the electrical system on this car, WHO KNOWS?

 

You have a Mitsubishi 3.0L powered vehicle with a Japanese made alternator, I drive a 1985 Plymouth Voyager with the same engine and same type alternator. [Admittedly, the van came with the 2.6L four cylinder engine. I installed the 3.0L ] So far in all the years I have driven this vehicle, over 265,000 miles, the same alternator [NEVER REBUILT] is still hanging on to its mounting brackets on that engine. Frankly, the GREATEST problem with alternators are the REBUILDERS who ‘repair’ them with inferior parts.  It has been that way throughout my 60+ years in the industry. 

 

[mensanguy]

To quote Hemi:

Frankly, the GREATEST problem with alternators are the REBUILDERS who ‘repair’ them with inferior parts.  It has been that way throughout my 60+ years in the industry. 

 

Truer words were never spoken!!

 

You just cant beat new OEM, no matter what the cost!!

[Hemi Dude]

4 hours ago, shelbyone said:

 

I didn’t have the time this morning to watch your video as I had already begun my answer to you. I then had to leave to drive our Church Van and pick up riders for church.

Watching the video now tells me that there is a great chance that there is a loose connection in your alternators external  FIELD CIRCUIT.

The output controller on Chrysler products has not created gauge movement that radical since the little black box [regulator] on the 1960s SLANT 6 engined cars.

A new alternator, no matter the output potential, will do the same thing unless the problem lies within the current alternator itself.

Unlike some other make vehicles and their alternators, the Chrysler Product’s alternators do not have a self contained regulator.

[shelbyone]

On 9/3/2023 at 1:24 PM, shelbyone said:

well...former owner replace the alternator....yesterday, I got these symptoms...and it seems like it is not charging the battery anymore...( the day before I checked and it was 14.2 volts at the battery....

checked grounds and connections....I suspect it might be the 2019 alternator that is already failing....

 

any other ideas?

 

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lb1cj7abwlkk8ndz4pt5g/ALTERNATOR.mp4?rlkey=snljtzqc8b84s9mapvuc3ksg3&dl=0

UPDATE

Alternator was NOT replaced by previous owner...it was the original unit......

 

installed 120 AMP Alternator....everything is peachy now! ( no charge fluctuations and no self activating Wiper! ) 

 

Problem solved!

 

THANK YOU HEMI and Mensanguy, Digger914, Garnet & Gold ( Bob) for your input!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2023 by shelbyone (see edit history)

[Hemi Dude]

Ah, so it was the brushes that were worn down to the point of not making good contact that caused the intermittent charging / not charging that made the Volt meter act so erratically. 

Glad you got it fixed. After the fact diagnosing is some times easier than before the facts are found.