Changing most of the prewar fluids, what do you recommend?

[Morgan Wright]

22 hours ago, Lee H said:

 

 

 

 

I think it's cool that 20% and 40% are right up there with water, but 60% and greater makes such a big difference. My Evans system is 100% and that shoots the bed.

[Lee H]

Well, Evans doesn’t express their specific heat in these typical btu/lb-*F units, but converted, it is 0.63 (at 194F), or only 63% the heat carrying capacity of water. That’s a big trade off for the benefit, IMO.

 

And I don’t know why they choose -40F to express the viscosity, but I suspect they aren’t anxious for direct comparisons to normal coolants.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/Customer-Content/www/CMS/files/006974_01_EVANS_Catalog_hi_perf.pdf

Edited September 7 by Lee H (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

18 minutes ago, Lee H said:

Well, Evans doesn’t express their specific heat in these typical btu/lb-*F units, but converted, it is 0.63 (at 194F), or only 63% the heat carrying capacity of water. That’s a big trade off for the benefit, IMO.

 

And I don’t know why they choose -40F to express the viscosity, but I suspect they aren’t anxious for direct comparisons to normal coolants.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/Customer-Content/www/CMS/files/006974_01_EVANS_Catalog_hi_perf.pdf

 

It explains why my engine is so hot and the radiator is so cool. 

[Buick35]

On 8/30/2023 at 9:17 PM, BuickTom87 said:

What does everyone use for the steering box fluid. I just want to drain and refill mine . I’m sure it needs to be drained and refilled 

On my 35 I used "00" grease in my steering box. I bought it at Tractor Supply. Seems to work o.k. I don't know how it works in a real cold environment but I'm in Florida.

[Morgan Wright]

I use 600W steam engine oil

[28Buick]

This helpful discussion about proper coolant makes this a good spot to post this query on overheating. In the "electric fuel pump" string I finally sorted out the vacuum tank and fuel delivery and ended that with a thermal picture. I drove a few miles and it converted my 50:50 antifreeze mix into steam. Thermal images show the temperature differential in the radiator top to bottom is about 10 degrees F. Somebody here said the optimal differential should be 20 degrees F. There are cool spots in the radiator (center right facing from front image). Right side engine pic shows the water pump is doing its job as a hot spot. I removed the spark plug cover to see if any cylinder ran cool (not detected). Left side pic shows the exhaust manifold at 500+ degrees F. Even with the heat control OFF the Marvel carb was at about 145 degrees F.

 

Any advice on next steps? I think I should pull the radiator and flush it upside down. I got four gallons of Evaporust (at $30/gal). I doubt if I have a thermostat but if there is one I may pull it. I may install a nylon stocking to trap circulating rust. Any insights on how to make this non-pressurized system run as intended are most welcome.

[ArticiferTom]

Use a mirror to view top of radiator for calcium build up on tube holes ? Can develope if sat for years evaping off . Cleaned mine with CLR and tube brush then back flushed as you thinking .

[28Buick]

Great idea to view top of radiator for build up. Here are some endoscope video cam images. I did not connect the video output to a monitor, so these are crude cell phone pictures of the small handheld inspection screen. It is enough to show there are big balls of crud on top as in image 1, but the tube holes themselves appear to be in good shape as in 3 and 4.  Pic 5 shows there is no thermostat with a yet to be identified significant crud deposit. I filled the radiator to the top with a rag stuck in the hole that feeds the water pump. It took 12.2 seconds for it to empty. I read somewhere here that it should empty in a few seconds. Is this a reasonable expectation?

 

Pic 6 is my next question: How to remove the radiator on this 1928 Standard? I removed the engine cowl with 2 screws.  Do I now remove the two side acorn cap screws (left shown in 6)? Reconnecting the hidden nut inside the frame rail is going to be a PIA so I'm asking before I drop the nut. How do I clear the engine hand crank?

Edited September 11 by 28Buick (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

3 hours ago, 28Buick said:

Pic 6 is my next question: How to remove the radiator on this 1928 Standard? I removed the engine cowl with 2 screws.  Do I now remove the two side acorn cap screws (left shown in 6)? Reconnecting the hidden nut inside the frame rail is going to be a PIA so I'm asking before I drop the nut. How do I clear the engine hand crank?

 

 

You have to remove the headlights.

[Morgan Wright]

Where do I get an IR camera like that? Is FLIR the brand name?

 

I'm a get me one of they'm

[28Buick]

1 hour ago, Morgan Wright said:

Where do I get an IR camera like that? Is FLIR the brand name? I'm a get me one of they'm

I have the FLIR One Pro, it attaches to my android phone and works like the phone camera. I found it handy to improve home insulation and recently to check blood flow in my dog who had leg surgery. It will also help locate a fresh warm dog turd if you want to be nice to your neighbors.

[28Buick]

On 9/11/2023 at 2:25 AM, Morgan Wright said:

 

You have to remove the headlights.

Thanks for the reply. At least on my 1928 it required removing the whole front end: Headlight rail, bumper, center front valence, engine cowl. No need to disconnect the front leaf spring or jack the car, just back out the bolt far enough to drop the valence. Fortunately there was no rust or over torqued fasteners so it went quickly. I found tape remnants on the radiator nut inside the frame rail, a good clue on how to reassemble.