Best Silver paint for lower dash / console

[atencioee]

Hello fellow Rivi owners, has anyone come across a great silver matching paint for the fiberglass dash & console on a 1964 Riviera?  

- Gene

Edited July 24, 2023 by atencioee (see edit history)

[atencioee]

Anyone??😊

[JFranklin]

You need to find the paint code or a book of paint chips. If there is something that can be removed it can be computer matched at any good auto paint store.

[65VerdeGS]

Hi Gene,

 

Your best bet is to take a sample to a auto body supply or full service auto parts store that can shoot the sample with a color gun and mix up the appropriate paint in a rattle can for you. 

 

I did this with success to retouch worn out areas on my lower dash pieces, esp. around the ignition key, etc.  I removed the plastic cover from the fuse panel to use as the sample to be matched.  Remove the two screws holding the fuse panel, then slide the plastic cover away from the fuse panel itself to remove.  Take this along with you to the paint store so they can match it for you.

 

My paint jobber matched the medium green color of my fuse panel cover, including the proper satiny sheen and put the pain into a rattle can. I did not spray large sections with the rattle can.  I sprayed the paint into a yogurt container and applied the paint with a small paintbrush and the end of a paper matchstick. 

 

If you plan on respraying larger sections with the rattle can, first make sure the new pant is compatible with the factory finish.  I'm not sure if the factory used enamel or lacquer on the interior pieces.  Ask the paint store that mixes your paint what type of paint they use. If the factory pieces are finished in enamel, and you spray lacquer over top, you may get into trouble.  Read here: https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/painting-dos-and-donts-mixing-laquer-and-enamel.32628/

 

Here in essence is what it says: "Generally speaking, you don't want to apply LACQUERS over ENAMELS. This is because the solvents used in lacquers are MUCH "hotter" (stronger, faster evaporating) than enamel solvents, and the lacquer solvents can 'dissolve' the enamel paint underneath them, leading to "alligatoring" or cracking or other things that TOTALLY ruin the paint finish. When something like this happens, your best bet is to wipe the whole mess off with a paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner, allow it to dry thoroughly, sand anything else off if necessary, and start over with the finishing process. Now, like everything else, there ARE exceptions to the rules... some folks HAVE applied lacquers over enamels successfully, but it is NOT a "beginners technique" and is risky at the best of times... it can be done in VERY VERY THIN, gradual coats, that don't put enough lacquer thinner/paint onto the enamel surface to attack it. Enamel, having 'softer, slower' solvents, CAN be applied safely over lacquer in most cases. Other paints can be applied over one another with various levels of success... "

 

Hope this helps.

 

[RivNut]

A body shop supply house should have a photo spectrometer that will get you an exact match.

[NTX5467]

As GM was using acrylic lacquer on the exterior, I suspect they were using lacquer on the innards, too.  Easier to shoot than acrylic enamel, too, even at the factory level.  Mist coats are better than "wet" coats, usually.  Be sure to clean everything to be sprayed with silicone and oil remover!  

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[EmTee]

Completely mask and cover anything that you don't want dusted with silver paint! 

[MikeJS]

Another option might be to look at an automotive wrap film. Lots of colour options, but no idea how easy it is for a DIY, and with a small ‘difficult’ area to cover, but a potential option nonetheless…??

 

Later, 

Edited July 29, 2023 by MikeJS (see edit history)