Phatthawg Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 (edited) I am looking for a decent price on a 1953 Buick Special radiator with a straight 8 and Dynaflow. It has the extra outlet on it for the defrost. Or I am looking for ideas for a transplant idea of an aftermarket aluminum rad from any other vehicle. This is not a show car so looks do not matter but money does! Thanks in advanced!!! Edited July 11, 2023 by Phatthawg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 Also, could be selling the original if I get a good lead on a rad that might work. This one is leaking just under the top tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g-g-g0 Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Try Classicradiator.com located in Farmingdale, NY. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 When I needed one for my 57 I called these guys: Champion Radiators & Cooling Systems for Sale Gave them all my dimensions, they used a 55 chevy truck radiator they had in stock, made the mods and shipped it to me, $375. I did not pay to add the port for the defrost/heater hose, instead I added an adapter to the petcock and attached my heater hose, but they would've added that orifice for another $100. It's been trouble free. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 55er Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 If it were me I would take the leaky original to a good radiator repair shop and ask their opinion before I did anything else. It may be a minor fix and then you could put the correct original back in the car. As for selling your old leaking radiator, that will be a really tough sell. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 12, 2023 Author Share Posted July 12, 2023 I have 2 quotes to recore it and they are both $900.00. Not looking to spend that much on this car as I'm not trying to restore it. Just want to enjoy going down the road again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 The recore on my '38 was $1000 and that was just so I could enjoy going down the road. Drove it 1100 miles on the Glidden Tour last fall with no cooling issues. Before the repair it would push water out the overflow and overheat. That was definitely NOT enjoyable... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 I'm going to be happy with a retro fit aluminum rad that'll do the trick for a lot less money. I have several cars but this one is just my fun to drive rat. Not a show car nor is it getting restored. It was a rescue from a family that was sending it to be pieced out. I like it just the way it is so any rad (that can work) is good for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 You will still spend ~$600 for a custom aluminum radiator. Whatever radiator you end up with, add a stocking filter at the upper hose connection to the radiator. Otherwise, chances are rust scale and sediment from the engine block will slowly but surely find its way to your new radiator and ultimately plug the core... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 Interesting on the filter. Never thought of or heard of this. Shoot me a link if you get a chance please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 Refer to the following: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/381501-grimys-sock-cooling-system-filter/#comment-2396213 https://forums.aaca.org/topic/371015-my-1938-buick-century-model-61/page/4/#comment-2386612 I currently have both a Gano filter (https://ganofilters.com/) and stocking in my '38 Buick. I have driven ~3K miles since I installed my re-cored radiator and still catch debris, despite the fact that the previous owner had flushed and power-washed the water jacket. You don't want any of this stuff in your new radiator... 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 This will likely be my transplant. Will need to fab the brackets but it is 4 row and close to the same core size. Inlet and outlet sises are the same. I'll probably "Y" off one of the other heater hoses to run the defrost line that went to the rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 Go on this website and look for a guy named Sonomatic. He has put a to of stuff on the forum about his new to him ‘50 Buick. One of the first things he did was put an aftermarket rad on it as a temp repair. I dont think he spent even $400. He wants to get his original one repair, but as you know it’s a dilemma. I dont think he put this repair on the site, but if you ask him, I’m sure he will relate his experience. He is very knowledgeable and a good tech writer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 Can't seen to find him... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMac1 Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 I just got off the phone with Bill at Classic Radiator (https://www.classicradiator.com/). He said that the parts came in today to build one for your car, even though it says out-of-stock on the website (https://classicfordradiator.com/1953-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator-NailheadV-1.aspx). The parts are in stock. It does take a couple days for him to build it. The cost is $875.00 I understand that you're looking for cheap — not good — but the only other alternative is Champion and when (not "if" it breaks, good luck with that "warranty"! Don't believe me? You don't have to: https://www.championradiators.com/warranty-return-policies. You van reply or PM me with questions. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted July 13, 2023 Share Posted July 13, 2023 If it's just leaking, find a plumber buddy and solder it back together to get you down the road for the season. Or heat up the solder and redo what's there. I just had my top tank pulled for a rod out and it only cost me $210 from a reputable shop in Seattle. That's all it needed, we didn't even pull the bottom tank. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Phatthawg, Right now i dont see Sonomatic either on the site but maybe you could just PM him and see if he answers. I believe he got his temporary aluminum rad from one of the parts houses like JEGS or someone else and it was a lot more affordable than a correct repair for over a grand, if you want a quick repair for a driver. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Beemon, this is terrible… About forty years ago, I dropped a wrench on my ten year old 68 Nova radiator and it sprung a leak in the middle. Since it was a beater, someone told me to get some muffler sealer and slather it over the hole. It worked, and after it dried, it got me to work for the rest of the week and the next four years until I sold it. Save yourself the $400 aftermarket radiator and put that money towards the correct repair. Your wife will shake her head! Lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 26, 2023 Author Share Posted July 26, 2023 First off, thank you very much. Well here is where I am.....I did retro a 1950's F series rad to the car. Fairly easy. Now my dilemma is this: Is it possible to tap the return line from the defroster that goes to the rad in with the lower water pump line from the oil cooler? Or would that screw up the cooling for the dynaflow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatthawg Posted July 27, 2023 Author Share Posted July 27, 2023 For anyone keeping score, I used an All-Aluminum Radiator 1942-1952 Ford Truck with Chevy Conversion Part Number : 166-EC4252CH from Jegs for just over $200. Changed the lower rad hose to 1 3/4 for the rad, removed the petcock and added a nipple for the defroster. For about $230 I'm crusing again and it's cooling awesome. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJF1948 Posted July 28, 2023 Share Posted July 28, 2023 I got this one from Amazon for my 53 Super. "62MM ALUMINUM RADIATOR For BUICK SPECIAL/for Roadmaster/for Century/Super/ 1954-1956 1955" (Made in Cambodia) Also installed a catch tank. City stop and go, some 65mph interstate, so far temp got above 160, less than190, once during a local drive stuck in traffic. I'm running the stock 4 blade fan with factory shroud. It has the nozzle needed for the defrost return in the correct location. Painted black, it blends in pretty well. The flanges did need some minor trimming. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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