John Nelson Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 I have heard of using Rubber Lip Seals to replace the felt seals in many areas on the Buick 24/45 and wondered if anyone has made up a parts list for this application. John Nelson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 John: I will look for our notes on the lip seals for the front cover we did. I know Hugh Leidlein has used them elswhere and can give better information. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 (edited) John, These are the instructions for the timing cover. Vary all sizes for your application as this is applicable for a 1925 Buick Standard and you have the larger 6 cylinder - but it appears all the sizes may be the same. Also a good idea to add felt to the starter crank as mine did need additional packing. I have also installed lip seals on both front and rear axle wheel seals. A less critical application. The fan hub mechanism is rebuilt using sealed bearings. Hugh Edited June 26 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 So far I have been able to find inexpensive metric lip seals to replace the old felt seal. The rear wheel was the only application I can think of where the seal was not the same size as the adjacent bearing as it sits in a smaller counterbore. The rear seal was 72mm x 92mm x 10mm. The front wheel bearing seal was 60mm x 100mm x 10mm. All the bearings are common metric sizes so its not difficult to find a metric seal that will work. Kevin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted June 27 Author Share Posted June 27 Thanks to all for the info! I’ve got the engine disassembled and the cylinder casting and head to the machine shop to be hot tanked, other than that I’m cleaning and inspecting parts but most of the engine appears to be in quite good condition other than being full of sludge and rust! John 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 After cleaning and magnafluxing I found out that I had an 8” crack in the cylinder casting. It’s in the water jacket about 3” down from the top on the right hand side affecting 2&3 cylinders. I’m not certain how to proceed, look for another cylinder casting or repair the crack. On the other hand they certainly do get these engine parts clean using an “Ultrasonic Hot Tank!” John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Mine has weld repaired cracks that total more than 8". Its repairable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Refer to this thread about a similar situation: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/385000-1921-buick-model-46-revival-saga/page/2/#comment-2480529 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 (edited) John Nelson - I am the owner of the 1921 Buick that had 2 large water jacket cracks fixed that EmTee referred to in the posting above. Read through my 1921 Revival Saga thread and message me with any questions you may have. I thought that the cracks in my block would be near impossible to fix and I was wrong. My cracks were cold stitched by an expert. I was very happy with the results. The linked thread in the above post by EmTee has before and after photos. Good luck. Pete Edited June 30 by IFDPete Wording (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old26Buick Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I used them on rear axles of my 27 Standard Woodie. Worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Here are links to Harwal, CR and National brand seal catalogs for choosing seals by dimension, material and lip style. Harwal is primarily metric but they offer some in inch dimensions. Most seals are relatively forgiving of shaft diameter, (especially at low speeds), as long as they ride on a smooth surface. Speedi Sleeves are a great repair for pitted or grooved seal races. Different lip styles have different capabilities. All the catalogs show the seal profiles. Harwal describes the characteristics of each style. https://www.harwal.com/seal-info/rotary-shaft-seals https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/Images/0901d196807662c1-810-701_CRSeals_Handbook_Jan_2019_tcm_12-318140.pdf http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Timken-National-Seal-Catalogue.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 (edited) I have a partial 1924 engine. The Block has not been checked for cracks but I know it was pretty worn out since it finished its last days powering a sawmill. Only photo I have of the block on the right and the crankcase on the left before covering up. Out of sight out of mind.... Oops another...opposite view. But not enough for detail. If worst comes to worst I can check it out if it could be useable. Edited July 2 by dibarlaw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 Hi Larry, I’ll definitely keep it in mind. Right now I’m looking into this “Stitching Repair, sounds like that might be the way to go but we’ll see. By the way thanks for the tip on the Stuart Warner 208A on EBay, I picked it up. It’s going to be interesting hunting parts for this Buick but that’s half the fun. Thanks again John Nelson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gward1211 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 (edited) John, I replaced the timing cover felt seal with a modern lip seal on my 1928 Master Buick. I machined off the spiral oil groove (just enough to remove the groove) to get to a nice polished surface and purchased an oil seal to suit. Works well and no leaks. Kind regards Geoff Ward Edited July 3 by gward1211 error (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted September 17 Author Share Posted September 17 Well I got extremely lucky and a fellow AACA member “2nd Gen. Collector” had a 24 and 25 Buick Six engine he was trying to find a home for and I drove down to Stevens Point WI and picked it up. When I got it home and disassembled it the lower end proved to be completely seized but the cylinder casting appeared to be OK. I pulled the freeze plugs and thoroughly cleaned the casting then took it to the machine shop to be magna fluxed and have the cylinder bores measured. The bores were within spec’s and there were no cracks, I’m back in business!!! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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