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Polarizing a Voltage Regulator/Generator after Battery Disconnect on my '50 Buick


Sonomatic

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So some of you may have seen my post on replacing the front pump seal on the Dynaflow in my '50 Special.  After being down for two months, I got the car back together and noticed that the generator was severely overcharging.  I didn't remember having that problem before.  Looked in the service manual and found that the regulator can be adjusted for output.  Yeah, maybe the original could, but the one installed now has no adjustment.  I figured, old car, always need something, so I ordered a new voltage regulator from Kanter.  In the mean time, I decided to drive around with the headlights on so as to not severely overcharge the battery that was already long in the tooth, (the previous owner told me it was from 2017 I think).  I stopped by a freind's house to show off my recent repair, sat on the porch and chatted for an hour and a half, went to leave and, you guessed it, battery dead as a door nail.  Home was withing walking distance, so, I went and got my battery charger and hooked it up for an hour or so, nothing doin'.  Plan B: found a battery, in stock at Tractor Supply.  Went and got the battery, set it on the ground next to the car, hooked up my jumper cables and she lit right off.  Through the battery in the trunk, and, with a red face, drove my Buick home.  Next day, I put the new battery in, and, found in the service manual the proceedure for polarizing the voltage regulator, or, is it more corredt to say, polarize the generator.  Anyway, manual said, take a screwdriver and momentarily jump the generator and battery terminals on the voltage regulator.  Terminals in the first picture, from top to bottom are FIELD GEN BATT.  Second picture shows jumping GEN and BATT terminals with Screwdriver.  Now the generator is charging as before, and, now I have a spare regulator on the way for $110.  I've heard about this proceedure of polarizing the generator all of my life, but have never had a car that required it.  A lot of you with experience with these regulator controlled charging systems probably figured out what my problem was right away.  That's why we need this forum, to keep all of this knowledge alive.  Thanks to all of you that do just that.

VR.jpg

Polarizing.jpg

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Polarizing.jpg

 

I gave your post a "like"  because of your successful repair, but I hope you have a kill switch in this car.  And if not, I'd recommend parking it outdoors till you do have one, or it is towed away after the fire.  I mean this with all due respect.  But your wiring harness is seriously deteriorated and it looks like you have more than one wire ready to short out against some others.  

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Yes, the wiring harness has certainly seen better days, and, although I don't have a kill switch installed, the negative battery cable is just slipped on the battery post.  I will also take your advice as to disconnecting the battery when it's inside, which is always.  The harness is on the list, I had intended to query the forum and see where the best harness could be obatained, particularly the correct gage of wire.  I would not be opposed to modern insulation but would like a harness with original gage wire.  I am also interested in mobilparts' comment.  I wasn't aware that you offered parts.  Do you have a website or catalog?

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Old wiring on these cars is a cruel problem - you think you can just leave it alone, don't touch it, wrap it with some tape, dob on some liquid tape, etc.  I have never had one catch fire (I have two 49's) but I was certainly happy when I replaced the entire wiring harness.  They are not cheap but the ones from YnZ are well made and complete, plug n play so to speak.

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Good news wires that are all green and fuzzy are less likely to short out.

Bad news wires that are all green and fuzzy  don't carry current as well since the electrons travel over the surface of the wire.

You won't believe the difference in brightness of the headlights after you replace the wires.

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Never heard of polarizing a generator fixing over charging, but your repair IS successful!👍

 

Maybe you moved the field lead (without knowing) that was bare somewhere and touching ground therefore causing full charging? 

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Dan O, you said it!  Cruel.  Looks like wiring will cost as much as the car did.  Further, looks like a ready made harness is cheaper than trying to source wire and do it your self.  Frank DuVal, I'm with you, I was sure the regulator was bad, but, on a whim, did the polarizing proceedure and it's working normal.  

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