Brtele Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 (edited) So, I waited to start the dual master conversion until the weather was perfect driving weather - smooth move. I was going to drive the car with the old brakes Friday night, but they just didn't feel right while sitting in the driveway - 25 year old me would've "thrown the dice", 43 year old me pulled the car back into the garage and starting pulling things apart. Got the existing master cylinder off, but really having trouble with the brake line down to the distribution block. The nut at the distribution block will not break loose. I've given it some PB Blaster and using a good line-wrench along with some "how's your father" knocks, but dang this thing won't budge. Haven't given it heat yet - kept spraying PB and allowing time while working on rebuilding the front brakes and repacking the bearings. The old front brakes/assembly might have 5K miles on them - everything looks pristine. The grease still has good color but looks like it's gone through 20 years of heat/cold cycles. Somebody went through a good amount of work and then did not drive this car - too bad. Edited June 19, 2023 by Brtele (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 HEAT Don't strip the nut Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 18, 2023 Share Posted April 18, 2023 19 hours ago, Brtele said: The nut at the distribution block will not break loose. Are you talking about the mounting bolt or one of the tube fittings? If the latter, just cut the line right behind the fitting. If the line is still good you can re-flare it, otherwise make a new cunifer line. If the mounting bolt, just keep trying, as recommended above... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted April 18, 2023 Share Posted April 18, 2023 22 hours ago, Brtele said: So, I waited to start the dual master conversion until the weather was perfect driving weather - smooth move. I was going to drive the car with the old brakes Friday night, but they just didn't feel right while sitting in the driveway - 25 year old me would've "thrown the dice", 43 year old me pulled the car back into the garage and starting pulling things apart. Got the existing master cylinder off, but really having trouble with the brake line down to the distribution block. The nut at the distribution block will not break loose. I've given it some PB Blaster and using a good line-wrench along with some "how's your father" knocks, but dang this thing won't budge. Haven't given it heat yet - kept spraying PB and allowing time while working on rebuilding the front brakes and repacking the bearings. The old front brakes/assembly might have 5K miles on them - everything looks pristine. The grease still has good color but looks like it's gone through 20 years of heat/cold cycles. Somebody went through a good amount of work and then did not drive this car - too bad. The line from the master to the distribution block is easy to make and install. If you can't loosen it just cut the line at the flare nut, move the line out of the way and use a 6 point socket to remove the flare nut, it'll break loose. Try not to cut the REAR line from the distribution block as you will be using that line via a union fitting to plumb the rear brakes into your 2nd brake master cylinder reservoir... assuming you are not replacing the front to rear brake line. Tom Mooney 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted April 19, 2023 Author Share Posted April 19, 2023 On 4/18/2023 at 7:24 AM, EmTee said: Are you talking about the mounting bolt or one of the tube fittings? If the latter, just cut the line right behind the fitting. If the line is still good you can re-flare it, otherwise make a new cunifer line. If the mounting bolt, just keep trying, as recommended above... Not the mounting bolt, but the tube fitting from the master to the dist block. I agree, I might just cut it, heat it and then put a 6-point socket on it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 19, 2023 Share Posted April 19, 2023 I'll bet the 6-point socket is all it will take... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted May 23, 2023 Author Share Posted May 23, 2023 (edited) Holy nuggets - that thing was on there tight. 3 heat cycles and tons of pb blaster resulted in me cutting the line off at the nut and putting a 6-point socket on it. Still took a crazy amount of force. Ordered all my fittings, adapters and lines from inline tubes - hoping to having everything buttoned up this weekend. Thinking about replacing the rear hard line (through the frame), but don’t know how difficult it is. Edited May 23, 2023 by Brtele (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 15 hours ago, Brtele said: Thinking about replacing the rear hard line (through the frame), but don’t know how difficult it is. Not that hard but you need to tie a wire or strong cord to the old line when you pull it out of the frame, long enough that it stays in the blind frame section. Then tie that to the new long line and pull it back through. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted May 25, 2023 Author Share Posted May 25, 2023 I'm having trouble getting my flare wrench on the Rear Brake line fitting at the distribution block. I could take the brake booster out to get more room or put a crows foot flare wrench on it - don't really want to strip this nut. Any advice from the think tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 I had problems with some of these flange wrenches until I found a set that had no taper in the hex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted May 25, 2023 Author Share Posted May 25, 2023 1 hour ago, gungeey said: Ew, that just feels wrong. But it's probably spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted May 30, 2023 Author Share Posted May 30, 2023 Rear brake line at the distribution block is removed and plugged. I used 3-4 heat cycles and a 3/8" crows-foot flared wrench. Problem though - I got the dual master installed and everything plumbed up - I have a leak and I believe it's from the rear line section. My view is blocked to see where the leak is at, but it's leaking down the steering box - distribution block and associated lines are completely dry. I'm probably just going to dive into the rear line replacement - ugh. I'm going to try and research the best way to remove and replace the line. I'm hoping this isn't too difficult, but i'm not too hopeful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted May 31, 2023 Share Posted May 31, 2023 Don't make it out to be some monster of a job, it's not a big deal. There are a couple sheet metal plates in the drivers wheelwell (to the rear of the upper control arm). Remove them and the dist block will be staring you in the face. Straighten out the old tube somewhat where it joined the block. Make a rough measurement for the replacement tube an add a foot or so. Duct tape the length of new brake tube to the old brake tube in the wheelwell. Loosen any clips along the run of tube. Disconnect the line at the rear brake hose and pull. Final cut the front side of tube, flare the end (this can be done before hand also) and massage it into shape. Then do the same at the rear. Bask in the glory of a job well done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 31, 2023 Share Posted May 31, 2023 It is not a real hard job just to pull the exhaust manifold off and get space to work. If you are using stainless lines it takes a little extra pull to get a good seal. I do not use gaskets on my nailhead exhaust manifolds. That makes it easier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 Well I finally got this project crossed off the list. New SS brake lines from Inline Tube (good stuff with the bends pretty close). New front flexible brake hoses. New Dual Master Cylinder (Amazon - Centric 130.62015 - fit perfectly) New Front Brake Wheel Cylinders and hardware - (Rock Auto) Cleaned Outer/Inner Wheel Bearings with Mineral Spirits and repacked with Lucas Red and Tacky Bled Back-to-Front....Finally a really good/firm brake pedal - Now I know I was on borrowed time with the old Single Master. Next chore is replacing the rear springs to raise the car about 1.5" - got a little sag. Thanks to everyone (and old writeups) for all the help throughout this project! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 19 hours ago, Brtele said: Next chore is replacing the rear springs to raise the car about 1.5" - got a little sag. Take a look at the #5 body mount. It is the one above the rear frame kick up. You can lose an inch of height right there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 4 hours ago, 60FlatTop said: Take a look at the #5 body mount. It is the one above the rear frame kick up. You can lose an inch of height right there. Is this very difficult to replace utilizing jack stands/jacks? I was searching for a write-up, but had trouble finding one. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 It depends on the rust accumulated in the captured nut chamber. Sometimes the nut will spin. It is just a sheet metal retainer. On my '64 the nut on #6 left spun and I had to cut through the trunk floor aft of the wheel well to remove it. The #^ mounts should be replaced if you do the #5s. The small oval #7s rarely show any aging. I reused mine. If the bolts work with you taking the wheel off and using jackstands should work if you loosen the mounts on either side of the one you change. If you can get 2" of clearance or a little more you should be fine. Mine were really crushed down with #5 being the worst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 On 4/19/2023 at 9:18 AM, EmTee said: I'll bet the 6-point socket is all it will take... EmTee, a gent from RI told me Kroil penetrating oil is really great stuff. I bought some in hopes the penetrating oil will make some things easier. ( the case the gent had with his brakes seems nothing could break loose his problem). I’ll give you info on how Kroil worked for me. Stay Well i might say the engine rebuild on my 401 nailhead was stellar. The engine runs strong and fast without any problems. I’m no hot rod guy, but I do like to go fast on the Interstate. stay well Turbinator 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 In a test of many rust breaking agents, Kroil etc, the best penetrant/breaking agent tested was a homemade mix of 50/50 Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone. Kroil was tested as good but was not considered because of the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 The location of the caged nut for the mount in question s likely to be difficult in any event. The cavity is closed by the joining of the trunk floor pan and the body mount cup. The nut is only held from rotating by a sheet metal strip. The whole thing is in the path of any water leaking from a failed rear glass seal. The best penetrating oil would have to creep up the threads quite a distance. It's a hard one. I was lucky. Only one mount put up a fight. Next in difficulty are the two mounts at the forward corners of the front inner fenders where the core support would be on most cars. And they affect the alignment of the hood and front fenders. My car was 25 years old when I did them and were quite squashed. At 60 years old they should all be checked if they haven't. I will take a look at mine next time I get a chance and see if they have settled down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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