Jump to content

1955 Buick Special Horn Assembly


MStuartk

Recommended Posts

Greetings and thanks for past assistance and hopefully someone can assist me with my current issue.  I do have the shop manual now, but I cannot figure out how to get the horn button to stay on the steering wheel.  It was on the wheel just fine and the horn worked as it was supposed to, until one day, it just popped off.  I think I retrieved all of the items that came off with it, and attached photos of them.  

 

Whatever manner it is placed on the wheel with the spring and other items, it will not remain clipped onto the steering wheel and the horn blows even when I do not push it.  I suspect that it has something to do with the little clips that is on each steering wheel spine.  Any assistance would be appreciated.  

IMG-1046-1.jpg

IMG-1048-1.jpg

IMG-1049-1.jpg

IMG-1051-1.jpg

IMG-1047.jpg

Edited by MStuartk
mispelled word (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • MStuartk changed the title to 1955 Buick Special Horn Assembly

I wish I could help with this but I have yet to pull my steering wheel.   Though I need to get in and replace the copper horn contact that is on the actual steering shaft inside the column.   Putting that job off for now.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It appears like the chrome actuator ring is assembled wrong..  I’m not understanding how it was on working beforehand. If assembled right it can’t just pop off.  In brief, the plastic black center cap gets pried off the ring.  Then there is a retainer that unscrews from the chrome actuator ring. I believe, from memory, that retainer gets held on the shaft by one of the washers already assembled to the column in your first photo.  When the chrome ring is on the wheel, you insert that threaded retainer into the chrome ring and tighten it down against the spring.  The more you tighten it the less travel to actuate the horn.  Then that black cap snaps on top.  When pressing the ring you are closing the circuit to ground.

 

Try searching the forum?  Someone had a similar problem a few months ago and we posted assembly and exploded installation diagrams of the contact ring spring and insulators, unless someone has it handy.  If I can find it quick I’ll post it. The drawing may have been in addition to what was in the service manual. 

 

Update. Search forum 1955 Buick horn ring.  QED.
 

 

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks so much!  I have no idea if it was mounted wrong before.  I drove it a few days before it came off and because I like the Buick horn sound, I blew it a lot!  I did pry off the center cap to try to see what else can be done but that is far as I went.  Looking forward to any additional knowledge on this and drawings.  The manual really did not get into this on my level of understanding!  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the first diagram in the link. It looks like the spacer piece is missing?  I believe the chrome ring goes on the wheel then the spacer plate then the wheel nut holds the spacer plate on.  The chrome ring will then be held loosely on the wheel.  When installing the remainder of the illustrated parts in sequence per diagram, the spring will lift the chrome ring off the steering wheel.  That space of the lift between the ring and the wheel is governed by how far the adjusting nut is turned, and hence sensitivity of the ring to blow the horn.

 

Horn stuck on all the time if actuator ring is properly assembled and adjusted is  a short in the steering column at the slip ring based on realized community experience.  Different problem, search forum for repair and see Old Tanks tech tips page.  is that clear RTV around that piece on the steering shaft?  If so it’s not supposed to be there unless someone was trying to make an insulator.

 

Pictures are worth a thousand words for this repair, you have to lay the pieces out in sequential order to get it right. Often not intuitively obvious but doable.
 

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do see the RTV now that you mention it.  Good eye!  This also might account for why it seemed to be working okay for a short time after I started driving it.  Are you referring to the wheel nut as pictured in the first photo?  Do you think I will need to take that nut off and place the "missing" spacer to make things work properly? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You’re welcome.  
 

Yes I think it has to come off unless you can ascertain by visual inspection all parts are accounted for and properly installed.  If you take it apart in sequence and take your time my hunch is you’ll figure it out else there’s a couple dozen of us armchair mechanics who have swore at this project prior to success.
 

Nothing special that I’m aware of. Am going off memory but mind how the contact button comes out so the wire if still soldered to the slip ring collet on the steering shaft inside the column doesn’t break off.  There’s videos floating around of folks who did it if you want a look see, but I think it will be self evident.  I recall simply unscrewing the nut then the circus really freakin started and back then I had no drawings or shop manual but my photographic memory still worked.  It still works but it takes longer for the film to develop and occasionally some negatives get lost.

 

If you pull the steering wheel its location is marked on the shaft with a mark on the wheel and mark on the shaft. Line it back up right then go drive the car and blow the horn to your hearts content. 
 

Good luck

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good find thanks for posting the pics - helps others understand since it’s not something easy to illustrate when installed.  Clarifying earlier points, that piece in the 11:00 position to the left of the spring is the spacer previously mentioned that goes over the chrome actuating ring and is held on the shaft by the wheel nut so it can’t pop off.  The flange on the spacer is what keeps the actuating ring retained on the steering wheel.  The contact on the horn wire rests inside that dimple on the piece in the 6:00 position which fits over the other end of the spring.
 

The spring and isolators, when compressed and installed between that pocket in the spacer and the piece in the 1:00 position with the clips pushes the actuating ring outwards, toward you, until the ring rests against the flange on the spacer. Turning that piece with the clips clockwise, which threads it into the actuating ring, sets the sensitivity of the ring (how far to push it) to blow the horn.

 

Hope that helps…..

 

 

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I received the parts for the horn assembly but ran into another unseen issue.  Even with the adjustment all of the way down, the horn button will not stay on the wheel.  Upon close inspection I noticed that there is a metal lip at the bottom of the horn button that extends outside of the casing.  The photo of my existing horn button displays that the metal lip has worn away.  I suspect that this is the reason that the button will not stay on the wheel.  It actually does stay on the wheel but the slightest movement brings it off.  In my opinion, that metal lip is what actually keep the button on the wheel. 

 

The second photo displays a horn button that I saw on Ebay.  This button has a piece of plastic that goes around the protruded lip.  Does anyone have any ideas how I could proceed without purchasing an entire horn button?  I am thinking I might be able to fabricate a piece of hard plastic to serve as a washer.  Yet, since the lip has worn down so much, the plastic might not be enough.  Ideas are appreciated!  

IMG-1051-2.jpg

s-l1600-1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the metal edge on yours was ground down?
 

 It’s not under much stress, maybe fabricate a ring or flange of proper size out of aluminum, steel or brass, cut it into 2 or 3 sections to fit inside and JB weld it in place.  I’m not sure if that can be mig welded to….

 

Not sure it’s the plastic that holds it, it needs that metal shoulder to hold it. Unless I’m missing the point which is possible….

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you say horn button I assume you mean the horn ring? If so I would not want to weld onto that since the whole thing is pot metal already.  It is hard for me to tell but if you have any portion of the flat land on the inside of the ring I'd try your idea of finding a large washer to sit on whats left of the landing surface.  Probably means you will have to find another horn ring though.  Have you tried to source one anywhere?  I would try some of the vendors in the first thread under the Buick General forum on this site. There should be a few available, although not cheap for good quality chrome ones.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.  I actually found a replacement that seems to be in good condition for less than 30 bucks.  My theory is that the plastic sort of helped lengthen the life of the metal, and the plastic was not placed back on the ring after maintenance, or this actual horn ring is a replacement that was sold without the plastic.  I think that over time, the metal against metal wore it out.  

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/23/2023 at 10:23 PM, MStuartk said:

I think that over time, the metal against metal wore it out.


…so someone got a little crazy blowing the horn at crosswalks to see people jump 🤣

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...