1957 Buick heat riser valve missing "stops" part

[Yohdda]

Hello,

 

Firstly, I love these forums as they have so much information, and had helped me out in so many situations.

 

I have 1 57 Buick Century and my passenger side manifold heat riser valve is the issue.  The spring and plate cover fell off and I have those parts, but I seem to be missing the "stops" that prevent the valve from free spinning.  Right now I can do a continuous spin and rotate the valve 360 degrees by spinning the weight.  

 

What I need is the mechanism that stops the valve in the closed position when cold, and in the open position when warm.  I can not find one on the internet, or even find a picture of what one looks like so I can fabricate one.  

 

Could someone please post a picture of the "stops" part for the heat riser valve on a 557/58 Buick?  This would help a ton!  Or have a link to where I can buy the part?

 

I have attached an image for reference.

 

Thank you,

Jason

[JohnD1956]

Those stops are pins.  Yours may have rusted and broke off?  Close inspection of the area should show the holes which may have to be drilled and new pins tapped in. 

[Wayne R]

As John  has just said    correct,   but over the years , i have removed  the  the spring ,  pins, and inside valve flap, had  2 holes welded.

on about  half the buicks i have owned,---it depends  on where  you live  and temperatures, example most it did i lived 

in  California,  even in Australia  now  dont require  that  vale flap   also , in cold New Zealand  Buicks always ran great with out it.

It is very easy to  drop it and  repair or  renew it, just drop exhaust pipe there,   give the valve  housing a tap with hammer it will

drop right out for you to work on.

[Smartin]

The 57 heat riser valve is part of the manifold, and cannot be removed as a separate unit. 

 

Remove the valve completely and drill/tap the shaft holes to plug them.  They are notorious for sticking closed and roasting engines.  They are also magnets for exhaust leaks through the shaft holes.

[Wayne R]

Thank you   Smartin  for   puttting me  right,---yes  i wondered about that ,as all the  models i  have done  are later years.

57 minutes ago, Smartin said:

The 57 heat riser valve is part of the manifold, and cannot be removed as a separate unit. 

 

Remove the valve completely and drill/tap the shaft holes to plug them.  They are notorious for sticking closed and roasting engines.  They are also magnets for exhaust leaks through the shaft holes.

 

[Yohdda]

Thanks for the tips.  I do live in Canada where it is colder, but it is only to be driven when there is no snow on the ground.  I was debating on removing it all together or tying it open with wire.

 

In the image that I posted it looks like a bent flat wire made of the same metal as the spring.  

 

Part of my problem, in addition of the valve not staying open, is that I can not get it to idle on start without me staying in the car to keep it running, and then after 5min of warming up I can start to move the car, but if I don't keep on the gas it will stall.  After driving the car for another 5min then it will run great.  So I was thinking it was related to this valve not working properly (which currently just flaps around) and not warming up the engine faster because the valve isn't staying closed when cold.

[Smartin]

Your choke is malfunctioning.  

[Yohdda]

Thanks Adam, I'll take a look at the choke.   I am just working through this issue backwards and still need to fix this heat valve.