MercMontMars Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 Reposting this here since I had it in a general forum. Since writing this I have removed the carb and am currently rebuilding it as it looks filthy inside. Will see how she runs once the carb is done. - Hi there, I’m new to the forum and am needing help with restoring my 52 Pontiac Chieftain. The vehicle has a swapped 1954 Pontiac Straight 8 with a 1954 hydramatic transmission. The vehicle is in great shape for its age, I’m just trying to get it running. I cleaned out the motor the best I could, new thermostat, cleaned wiring, new spark plugs, etc. It ran and drove from the guy I bought it from to my shop no problems, just burnt oil. I went to start it the next day and only got a click from the starter, tried jumping it but didn’t work. Put a new 6v battery on and still low voltage, only clicks. I cleaned the wiring and ground and this seemed to fix it, I was able to turn the motor and get it to fire again, eventually achieving idle but the motor dies if I give it any throttle. I feel like it’s just a matter of tuning as the motor no longer burns oil and idles healthily. Summed up, need to know what to do to get my chieftain running and driving. Will idle but won’t take any throttle, weird because I drove it to my shop from the seller. I’m also leaking oil from where the oil pan and flywheel housing meet. It also looks like I’m missing a big part of the flywheel housing and multiple bolts are gone from my oil pan, likely the cause of the leak. I will be getting photos so I can show what is going on. I also need a good source of parts if anyone knows a place. Anyone out there a Pontiac Straight 8 expert? Thanks for any help! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pont 46 Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 First off congrats on a great car!! Looks in good shape. I am no expert but, will try, I would check gas flow, make sure no clogs. Fuel pump working ok? Old gas? As for starting, check if you have correct battery cable on ground, my 46 uses a braided ground cable, 6 volts need a good ground. parts: https://www.pontiacparts.net/ information: https://www.poci.org/ http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 Nice car! Welcome to the forum. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrtonvilleBob Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 You mentioned you put in new spark plugs and wires, how about the points? I and others can attest to the poor quality of ignition points being sold these days. In my case I wasted days of troubleshooting what I was sure was a fuel or carburetor issue. Engine would start but would die if given any throttle. Spark plugs were sooty. I didn't suspect an ignition problem cause the plugs, plug wires and points had been replaced not that long ago. I eventually checked spark strength by using an inexpensive tool that shows how big of a gap the spark could jump. I'll be darned, the spark was weak. I checked the points. I'll be darned again, they were burnt. I replaced them and bingo, engine started right up and ran great. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussJagoau Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Hello, your oil leak is most probably from the rear crankshaft oil seal and it usually a dead giveaway if the flywheel cover is missing, so that the oil doesent collect on the components behind the flywheel whether it be torque convertor or clutch. Suggest you first replace the missing bolts on the oil pan rails to confirm its not coming from the pan rail seal,. Then start the engine , when its running its most likely the crankshaft rear oil seal leaking thats the culprit. And unfortunately thats no 5 minute task to repair. It all depends on the leak rate as to whether the "juice is worth the squeeze" to go to the expense of repairing it. Its easier and generally more successful to remove the engine and replace the seal components to ensure a successfull outcome. if you have a Pontiac Workshop manual thats a great source to review to see the size of the task to change the seal. You can do it in the vehicle but its best done on a hoist so that you have good access to change the seal halves. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted February 18, 2023 Share Posted February 18, 2023 2 hours ago, RussJagoau said: Hello, your oil leak is most probably from the rear crankshaft oil seal and it usually a dead giveaway if the flywheel cover is missing, so that the oil doesent collect on the components behind the flywheel whether it be torque convertor or clutch. Suggest you first replace the missing bolts on the oil pan rails to confirm its not coming from the pan rail seal,. Then start the engine , when its running its most likely the crankshaft rear oil seal leaking thats the culprit. And unfortunately thats no 5 minute task to repair. It all depends on the leak rate as to whether the "juice is worth the squeeze" to go to the expense of repairing it. Its easier and generally more successful to remove the engine and replace the seal components to ensure a successfull outcome. if you have a Pontiac Workshop manual thats a great source to review to see the size of the task to change the seal. You can do it in the vehicle but its best done on a hoist so that you have good access to change the seal halves. car has 1954 Pontiac 268 straight eight and dual range Hydra-Matic transmission, no clutch or torque converter, it has a fluid coupling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summershandy Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 On 2/17/2023 at 4:45 PM, RussJagoau said: You've come to the right forum! I think your heat shield under the carb is backwards and should be over the exhaust manifold. I ran a second ground from the frame to the starter. Short, nice and heavy. Wiring connections can never be too clean for 6 volts. I have intermittent "clicks" and blame it on a sketchy neutral starter switch. You could bypass it to test. The only leak I've got is I suspect the rear crank seal. The flywheel cover has a small hole at the bottom which indicates that. As Russ said, "the juice isn't worth the squeeze" to me and I park the car on a sheet of plywood to protect my driveway. Good luck and nice wheels! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrtonvilleBob Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Summershandy has a good eye and is correct about the carb heat shield being installed backwards. Nice catch, I missed that when I first looked at your pics. For reference here's what the correct orientation looks like. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted June 14, 2023 Share Posted June 14, 2023 @MercMontMars did you ever solve the non running issue? Just harks of fuel starvation, checked you're getting a good feed from the pump? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 I'm with Phil on this... just replaced fuel pump (ac9640) on my 53... mine would shut down if idled too long at low rpm (300). then would go into vapor lock. added a 6v electric pump at fuel tank.. problem solved.... My original rebuilt pump was dismantled. what I found was the one diaphragm had partially disintegrated and was not sealing at low rpm induced volume.. I suppose this could happen on the output side also, giving fuel starvation at high rpm.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 this was a so called ethanol compatible rebuild... from who knows where with parts from who knows where... just sayin...!! Nothing lasts forever..... the 6v electric was my best insurance against hot starts.... only use it for starting..... mechanical pump works just fine...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summershandy Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 You've given me food for thought John. I just came back from a car show which was a 15 minute highway drive away. Car sat for just 1 hour while I walked around. When I went to leave the darn thing just wouldn't start. It would sound like it was going to but wouldn't run. I pumped the pedal before each time I tried, almost to a dead battery. It finally caught and I feathered the pedal to get it to idle. It's NEVER done that before. It runs great on the highway and at idle stil. I'm thinking of yanking my rebuilt pump and checking the innards now. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 I'd for sure put on an electric pump. best thing for piece of mind when traveling, even short distance.... I'll get you a picture of where I mounted mine later this week... leaving for Ohio tomorrow... l mounted the pump by the fuel sender in tank. l did this without cutting any lines.. just moved them slightly so I can reattach them in the unlikely event the electric pump goes out... even used the existing hole in tank strap to mount pump.. no drilling.. I'll post pictures later... be patient everyone...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 thinking about this, look for this symptom on your fuel pump glass sight glass.. if you can see air bubbles moving rapidly in the top of the glass, at idle, it may be a sign of a failing pump.... I mention this because now, after installing the 'new' pump, I no longer have the swirling bubbles in the glass.... this apparently was happening over a period of time and I just didn't notice it was getting worse.... just like my hard starts..... maybe this will help someone from getting stranded if you haven't already installed an electric pusher pump..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted August 9, 2023 Author Share Posted August 9, 2023 @PhilAndrews Hi there, sorry I kind of let this topic get buried over time. Since posting this I've done a ton to the car and have driven it several times, each time I get a new problem to fix but it's getting better and better. No more fuel problems, the last cruise left me stranded though and I suspect I blew my condenser somehow. Tested everything but that so it must be the culprit. Thanks! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 The more you drive it, the more will fail but the more you fix the better it'll drive. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 I'm with Phil on that statement 100% 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alweeja Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I have a 53 straight 8 with 3 on the tree, so I will follow your progress closely. Mine has been sitting un-touched for 10 years. I have to look before I leap since I am kinda Clueless. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alweeja Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alweeja Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alweeja Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now