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Fender bolts for a '26


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My current hold up for getting my '26 back together are a lack of bumper bolts.  These are unique in that the head is flattened and contoured on one side to provide a bearing surface against the fender.

Outside of firing up a forge and smashing bolt heads on an anvil, what are my options?

Thanks for any help.

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We need to know if it is a Standard 115" WB or Master 120 or 1928" WB. Front or rear bumper.  Many different aftermarket bumpers available. The approved Buick accessory bumpers were Wolvereen manufacture.

2677107.jpg.1fd8dd768519f88e769f61ceb468aae2.jpg Later 3 bar bumper on 1926-45A.


Weed Bumper on my 1925-45.


1927 Wolvereen bumpers on my 1925-25.


Biflex bumper on 1925-45.



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I apologize! I meant to say fender bolts.  I was removing the fenders and the bolts were rusted on. Many of them broke off when I applied a ratchet to the nuts even after a good soak with WD-40.

I'm wondering if elevator bolts might be modified to suffice?

I'm afraid to try removing any  more bolts should they break as well'.

It was suggested to use WD-40 then apply a torch to heat the nut, but then I'd risk causing a fire, and that wouldn;t be good.


Other challenges are replacing the conduit for wiring the headlights (those were rusted and broke off) and a bend in the sun shield caused when she was pushed into the garage.

On the positive side of the ledger, that beautiful Packard-esque radiator shell came back from the platers with the badge intact.

Once I get the front fenders off I can paint the engine block the correct (?) olive drab (I think Bob's Automobilia stocks it). 

She came to me with her block painted turquoise blue.

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In my experience with a 1938 Buick that had been sitting outside in the weather for 23 years in a northern environment, the best way to get those rusty bolts out is to use a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Put equal amounts in a squirt can, shake it up to mix the actone and ATF and apply it to the bolts. Let that mix soak overnight and I suspect you will find that most if not all of the bolts will come apart without breaking. That solvent is far superior to WD-40 or any other off the shelf solvent that I know of. 

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For a rusty bolt, you also have to "work the bolt" back and forth in small amounts.  This allows some of the rust to find it's way out of the threads and some room for penetrating lube into the threads.  If you just try to spin it off, the rust can compact into the threads.    Hugh

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