What is this below my carb? 1965 GMC

[TerryH]

Hey guys I have a 1955 grumman step van(kinda lol) it was had a new gmc Forward Control Chassis put under it in 1965. So the engine is a 1965 230 I believe. I am wondering what is between my carb and intake manifold? Have attached a few pictures any help would be appreciated my assumption is maybe come sort of heater but pure guess lol

[arcticbuicks]

thats the governor to stop you from over reving the engine, larger truck like a grain truck or something hauling heavy loads,it will be factory im sure ,basically you can put your foot to the floor but the governor will stop a high RPM of the engine from happening

Edited January 28, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history)

[Pete O]

1 hour ago, arcticbuicks said:

thats the governor to stop you from over reving the engine, larger truck like a grain truck or something hauling heavy loads,it will be factory im sure ,basically you can put your foot to the floor but the governor will stop a high RPM of the engine from happening

Interesting.  Do you know what makes it work?

[arcticbuicks]

its vacume controlled.....when you have engine running you have maximum vacume in the intake and the butterfly valve stays open in the governor........the more throttle you give engine the less vacume you have and it begins to close restricting engine RPM............gas grain trucks used same up into the 1980s,they feel strange to drive,it makes you just lug along.......i think they were for mostly hills so guys wouldnt gear down and rev engine too high say going up a hill

[arcticbuicks]

that one is not as bad as others with different big rubber diaphragm ,it will still need a rebuild and very touchy settings,there is a twist wire seal from the factory setting for warranty i think ,some had heater hose and would not let you rev engine until it was warm enough also

Edited January 28, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history)

[TerryH]

47 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:

that one is not as bad as others with different big rubber diaphragm ,it will still need a rebuild and very touchy settings,there is a twist wire seal from the factory setting for warranty i think ,some had heater hose and would not let you rev engine until it was warm enough also

Can I just delete it?

[arcticbuicks]

yes .....very simple....and the carb will just bolt back down ,many guys did do that as they did not understand them,but risk knocking the crank bearings out running RPM too high......but if yours is working why not leave it

[TerryH]

13 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:

yes .....very simple....and the carb will just bolt back down ,many guys did do that as they did not understand them,but risk knocking the crank bearings out running RPM too high......but if yours is working why not leave it

It is not running great I am  It is not running great I am rebuilding the carb and why not eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. It is a converted to a camper and has an aluminum body so not to heavy will install a rpm gauge to watch my rpm.

P.S thank you for sharing your knowledge I very much appreciate it!!!

[Rusty_OToole]

You don't need it if you have sense enough not to over rev the engine. Very little chance of that when accelerating cruising along or climbing a hill but when going down hill you need to be careful.

 

The motor is so detuned with small carb, mild cam, low compression it is unlikely to hurt itself except if it runs too fast down hill especially if you gear it down for engine braking.

[c49er]

That "King Seeley" governor already has had the throttle restrictor plate removed. That means it does nothing. A common thing to do to bypass the governor.

 Remove it if you want.

 

Edited January 28, 2023 by c49er (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

You might need it for a spacer, lowering the carb might put the throttle linkage out of kilter. Just something to look out for.