T stat housing

[jframe]

1 hour ago, RivNut said:

To my eye, the o-ring is still in the front cover; it’s just smashed in there. 

You were right, got it dug out with a little screwdriver. Here is the updated picture.

[1965rivgs]

Mark,

  I would suggest you start with a method to remove the P.S. pulley before using a gear puller. If you notice on a typical, later model power steering pulley puller tool, the tool applies pressure to the hub of the pulley by installing in a groove in the hub, not the outside diameter of the pulley. This is because the pulleys are stamped steel and are not strong enough to withstand substantial pulling force on the outer perimeter of the pulley.  P.S. pulleys, including the nailhead, are just stamped steel and very easily bent.

  If I encounter a stubborn pulley, I use two pieces of "one by" behind the pulley  and suspend them and the pump over a small metal shop can. You want whatever you use to back up the pulley to be wide enough to provide a flat surface for the edges of the pulley to bear upon, and to get as far inside to get close to the hub of the pulley if possible . Orient the pulley "up", and with the nut loosened until the face of the nut is flush with the end of the shaft, tap on the nut/end of the shaft with a small dead blow hammer or a small brass hammer, to free the pulley from the shaft. Short, sharp blows are the order of the day here, nothing heavy. On a rare occasion, I need to apply a little heat from a small MAP gas torch to the hub of the pulley to break the bond between shaft and pulley. If you dont have one of the above mentioned hammers, a small piece of wood over the shaft/nut will protect the nut and threads so as to use a typical hammer.

  Between my own and customer`s cars, I`ve probably used the above method 75 or 100 times with success, as resealing the pump assembly is a very, very typical repair. Also very typical, is a request for a straight power steering pulley from a member who has bent theirs, attempting removal. I have sold quite a few!

  Also, I have rarely encountered a bad power steering pump on these old Buicks. If your pump was producing pressure and was quiet, the reason for your leaks is most likely the shaft end seals and/or the orings which create a seal between the pump and the reservoir. The reseal kits are very inexpensive...but removing the reservoir from the pump assembly is for another post!

Tom Mooney

[jframe]

14 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

Mark,

  I would suggest you start with a method to remove the P.S. pulley before using a gear puller. If you notice on a typical, later model power steering pulley puller tool, the tool applies pressure to the hub of the pulley by installing in a groove in the hub, not the outside diameter of the pulley. This is because the pulleys are stamped steel and are not strong enough to withstand substantial pulling force on the outer perimeter of the pulley.  P.S. pulleys, including the nailhead, are just stamped steel and very easily bent.

  If I encounter a stubborn pulley, I use two pieces of "one by" behind the pulley  and suspend them and the pump over a small metal shop can. You want whatever you use to back up the pulley to be wide enough to provide a flat surface for the edges of the pulley to bear upon, and to get as far inside to get close to the hub of the pulley if possible . Orient the pulley "up", and with the nut loosened until the face of the nut is flush with the end of the shaft, tap on the nut/end of the shaft with a small dead blow hammer or a small brass hammer, to free the pulley from the shaft. Short, sharp blows are the order of the day here, nothing heavy. On a rare occasion, I need to apply a little heat from a small MAP gas torch to the hub of the pulley to break the bond between shaft and pulley. If you dont have one of the above mentioned hammers, a small piece of wood over the shaft/nut will protect the nut and threads so as to use a typical hammer.

  Between my own and customer`s cars, I`ve probably used the above method 75 or 100 times with success, as resealing the pump assembly is a very, very typical repair. Also very typical, is a request for a straight power steering pulley from a member who has bent theirs, attempting removal. I have sold quite a few!

  Also, I have rarely encountered a bad power steering pump on these old Buicks. If your pump was producing pressure and was quiet, the reason for your leaks is most likely the shaft end seals and/or the orings which create a seal between the pump and the reservoir. The reseal kits are very inexpensive...but removing the reservoir from the pump assembly is for another post!

Tom Mooney

Great tip; thanks. I actually happen to have a reseal kit that I bought a while back, thinking I may just get it resealed. The reservoir looks like it may be a bear to remove, like you said. The pump itself is quiet and the car steers well, it was just soaking wet on the bottom when I took the belt loose trying to get the brackets off so I can get the water crossover off.

[telriv]

One of the things I do to get a better seal is to use a .060" inner valve spring shim to fit inside the timing case cover (the I.D. is the same) to put a little more pressure on the O-ring seal to prevent future coolant leaks. 

I've even used 2 O-rings in extremely corroded covers.

Takes a couple clamps to bring them together tight enough but does work.

 

Tom T.  

[telriv]

Another thing.

A Mopar thermostat housing is almost a bolt-on replacement & is cast iron both big block or small block.

NEVER have another problem with an aluminum housing.

 

Tom T.

Edited January 23, 2023 by telriv (see edit history)

[jframe]

On 1/23/2023 at 10:18 AM, 1965rivgs said:

Mark,

  I would suggest you start with a method to remove the P.S. pulley before using a gear puller. If you notice on a typical, later model power steering pulley puller tool, the tool applies pressure to the hub of the pulley by installing in a groove in the hub, not the outside diameter of the pulley. This is because the pulleys are stamped steel and are not strong enough to withstand substantial pulling force on the outer perimeter of the pulley.  P.S. pulleys, including the nailhead, are just stamped steel and very easily bent.

  If I encounter a stubborn pulley, I use two pieces of "one by" behind the pulley  and suspend them and the pump over a small metal shop can. You want whatever you use to back up the pulley to be wide enough to provide a flat surface for the edges of the pulley to bear upon, and to get as far inside to get close to the hub of the pulley if possible . Orient the pulley "up", and with the nut loosened until the face of the nut is flush with the end of the shaft, tap on the nut/end of the shaft with a small dead blow hammer or a small brass hammer, to free the pulley from the shaft. Short, sharp blows are the order of the day here, nothing heavy. On a rare occasion, I need to apply a little heat from a small MAP gas torch to the hub of the pulley to break the bond between shaft and pulley. If you dont have one of the above mentioned hammers, a small piece of wood over the shaft/nut will protect the nut and threads so as to use a typical hammer.

  Between my own and customer`s cars, I`ve probably used the above method 75 or 100 times with success, as resealing the pump assembly is a very, very typical repair. Also very typical, is a request for a straight power steering pulley from a member who has bent theirs, attempting removal. I have sold quite a few!

  Also, I have rarely encountered a bad power steering pump on these old Buicks. If your pump was producing pressure and was quiet, the reason for your leaks is most likely the shaft end seals and/or the orings which create a seal between the pump and the reservoir. The reseal kits are very inexpensive...but removing the reservoir from the pump assembly is for another post!

Tom Mooney

Tom, your trick worked like a charm. Few whacks with my dead blow and off it came. Got a friend that's going to put a reseal kit in for me, since I've never done it and I think this pump will be fine. Got a water manifold today from Matt Martin that looks absolutely cherry. Thanks again for the pulley tip, now to get this thing back together and hopefully not leak from every pore lol. Still got to get that ac bracket ordered from Alan Grove; think it's my best bet since it's designed to fit the Sanden compressor and has all new hardware to go with it.

[RivNut]

1 hour ago, jframe said:

Tom, your trick worked like a charm. Few whacks with my dead blow and off it came. Got a friend that's going to put a reseal kit in for me, since I've never done it and I think this pump will be fine. Got a water manifold today from Matt Martin that looks absolutely cherry. Thanks again for the pulley tip, now to get this thing back together and hopefully not leak from every pore lol. Still got to get that ac bracket ordered from Alan Grove; think it's my best bet since it's designed to fit the Sanden compressor and has all new hardware to go with it.

Mark,

When you get the Alan Grove bracket on, could you post some pictures?  I’d like to see how close it comes to replicating the original. I’m thinking that if it fits like I’m hoping, I could install my finned spark plug covers.  

[BulldogDriver]

Side photo of mine.

 

Ray

[jframe]

Another dumb question: the water manifold has two different length bolts. I can't remember if the longer ones go on the passenger side or driver's side. Thought it was the passenger's, but I'm not 100%

[1965rivgs]

10 minutes ago, jframe said:

Another dumb question: the water manifold has two different length bolts. I can't remember if the longer ones go on the passenger side or driver's side. Thought it was the passenger's, but I'm not 100%

Insert them into the holes, that will dictate the location of their use.

Tom Mooney

[RivNut]

When you look at the manifold you’ll see that one of the outlets has a wider casting than the other.  As Tom said, inserting the bolts into the manifold will tell you which bolts go where. You’ll want the longer bolts in the wider end.

[jframe]

On 1/26/2023 at 2:23 PM, RivNut said:

When you look at the manifold you’ll see that one of the outlets has a wider casting than the other.  As Tom said, inserting the bolts into the manifold will tell you which bolts go where. You’ll want the longer bolts in the wider end.

Yes, I see that now, makes sense. What I am wondering now is that I have to put my ps pump and brackets back on when my friend gets done with the pump. I think the water crossover has to go on first because I can't drop it in with the front ps bracket in place; it gets in the way. Would it be possible to go ahead and seal the crossover up with the new o ring and gaskets, and simply just remove the bolts when I'm ready to put the accessory brackets back in place so I can sandwich the ac and ps brackets back where they were originally? I know lots of dumb questions, but this is as deep as I have had to go in this engine and I really want to do it right. Just don't want it pouring coolant when I get done lol.

[gungeey]

I suppose you could, I think it's making extra work:  if it were me I would wait for the pump and assemble in one swoop. I would add  Bars Leak pellets (not the bottled product).I crush them to powder and mix them with a cup of antifreeze before I pour in the radiator

[Riv Eng]

On 1/25/2023 at 4:19 AM, BulldogDriver said:

Side photo of mine.

 

Ray

Totally off topic, and I apologize.

 

Ray, I see you are running what looks like an oil pressure switch and sending unit? I presume that's so you can keep the dummy light in the dash as original, and run an auxiliary oil pressure gauge? Can you pm me what your set up is? I'm looking for a way to run both but haven't found a solution I'm totally happy with yet. 

 

Thanks, 

Dave

[XframeFX]

57 minutes ago, Riv Eng said:

Totally off topic, and I apologize.

Yes, I've also noticed Ray's non '63 Pass. exhaust manifold w/o the integral Heat Riser Valve - good plan. Also a Delco 10SI Alternator with the connector clocked at the 9:00 position, good too.

 

As for the Oil Pressure port, it's all 1/8-27 NPT Simply install a Tee (Eaton) from Ind. Supply places such as Fastenal.

I suggest not using a single pole Oil Light Switch for what its worth. Because a 2-Pole Switch swaps-in directly. Good in case you want to convert to an electric Fuel Pump later.

Yes, off topic but there-ya-go.

[Riv Eng]

12 minutes ago, XframeFX said:

Yes, I've also noticed Ray's non '63 Pass. exhaust manifold w/o the integral Heat Riser Valve - good plan. Also a Delco 10SI Alternator with the connector clocked at the 9:00 position, good too.

 

As for the Oil Pressure port, it's all 1/8-27 NPT Simply install a Tee (Eaton) from Ind. Supply places such as Fastenal.

I suggest not using a single pole Oil Light Switch for what its worth. Because a 2-Pole Switch swaps-in directly. Good in case you want to convert to an electric Fuel Pump later.

Yes, off topic but there-ya-go.

Thanks for the additional Info John. There is a Fastenal a block from my office, so this looks good. You had me right up to the fuel pump, then you lost me. How does an electrical fuel pump effect the oil pressure sender? 

[BulldogDriver]

Yes a “tee” fitting for the oil pressure senders. The indicator oil light sender is a PT64 with PT139 boot to also control power to the electric choke, dropped the EFI and went with carburetor instead. Gauge for oil pressure, voltage, and water temp is a Dakota Digital ODYR/SLX-40-1 installed in the ashtray. Put the water temp sender for the multi-gauge in the rear head hole and indicator in front head. The alternator is a 150 amp S12 unit with appropriate wiring upgrades. Needed it when the engine had EFI on it. Heat riser valve was removed and holes tapped for bolts. 
 

Ray

 

[XframeFX]

2 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:

The indicator oil light sender is a PT64 with PT139 boot to also control power to the electric choke

I too used the 2nd pole of an SMP Blue Streak PS133 oil pressure switch to energize my electric choke only when the engine is running on a dedicated circuit. I don't see any boot, would be a nice touch.

 

Go by that Tee illustration only. You want three 1/8-27 NPT threads, 1 nipple and the other two female.

 

Correction: Ray is using a 12SI Alternator. However, what Sanden AC Compressor would that be and what Alan Grove brackets?

 

I couldn't get my console and glovebox door to fit so nicely😎

 

Oil Switch schematic:

 

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2023 by XframeFX (see edit history)

[BulldogDriver]

PT139 is the connector with boot as part of the assembly. Console and glove box are many, many, many hours of reworking. The plastic used back in the day is quite the challenge keeping it from fracturing.
 

Ray

[jframe]

11 hours ago, XframeFX said:

I too used the 2nd pole of an SMP Blue Streak PS133 oil pressure switch to energize my electric choke only when the engine is running on a dedicated circuit. I don't see any boot, would be a nice touch.

 

Go by that Tee illustration only. You want three 1/8-27 NPT threads, 1 nipple and the other two female.

 

Correction: Ray is using a 12SI Alternator. However, what Sanden AC Compressor would that be and what Alan Grove brackets?

 

I couldn't get my console and glovebox door to fit so nicely😎

 

Oil Switch schematic:

 

 

 

 

The Sanden compressor on mine is a 508. I think that other numbers have superceded this number, like an SH type number or something. Laid mine up in the bracket when it came in and it seems it will fit perfectly once I use the supplied hardware and spacers. Best part is that it eliminates the rear bracket that goes over the valve cover and all the long bolts/bushings that I had to use to make the compressor fit, and it also eliminates the brace under the factory bracket than ran from it to the motor mount bolt on the block.