1918 Buick valve cage seals

[Doug Ruth]

Is there a source for the bronze (brass?) valve cage seals for our '18 Buick 6 cylinder?

thx

[edinmass]

Most people would run a Chrysler seals. I would run an O ring. Not much will help. They are what they are. 

[Terry Wiegand]

The intake and exhaust valves were the same diameter for the 1916 and 1917 Light Six engines.  1916 was the first year for the Light Six.  In 1918 Buick increased the diameter on the intake valves thus using two different diameters of the sealing rings.  In the past when my very good friend was still alive, we machined these sealing rings for a lot of Buick owners.  If you would send me a PM with your contact information I would like to visit with you and possibly steer you to someone who can make a set or two for you.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

[Morgan Wright]

When I did my valves I got the 6 exhaust rings from Terry ^^^^^^ and had the 6 intake rings made by Gary at the NAPA machine shop in Saratoga Springs, NY, he was able to machine them up by the using the old ones I brought in as samples, as well as the cages, and knowing the valve cage bore, he was able to machine them perfectly, but he had to buy a big chunk of brass rod stock which he paid good money for and was stuck with after. I have a feeling he still has that chunk of brass rod stock so he'd be happy to use some of it for money and profit. If you bring the old seal rings in with the cages, he'd know exactly what to do since he did it for me.

[Brian_Heil]

You can anneal them with a propane torch.

 

Get them red, air cool, done.

 

Now they are back to being 'soft' and will seat and seal.

 

[Morgan Wright]

3 hours ago, Brian_Heil said:

You can anneal them with a propane torch.

 

Get them red, air cool, done.

 

Now they are back to being 'soft' and will seat and seal.

 

 

Good idea. Just anneal the old ones. That would work fine, and it keeps everything HPOF in case the judge asks you to remove the valve cages at the car show.

 

No seriously, just anneal the old ones. That's what I should have done.

[DonMicheletti]

While annealing is a good idea, is it hecessary?  In the 55 years I have had my E-45, I have had the cages out several times to just give the valves a lapping kiss (the engine has always run great).

In doing that I have juat re-used the seal rings as they were. All were in good condition.

I have never seen any traces of blow by nor have the cages rotated on me. The cages have always come out easily.

 

Unless the seal rings are obviously defrormed, I think "as is" use is probably OK.

I do lube them on installation with a graphite / oil mixture.

 

In the "GRINDING VALVES" section of the manual, it says nothing about replacing the seal ring.

 

Comments?

[Brian_Heil]

I have had a similar experience as you Don.

 

A now long gone Flint Buick mechanic told me he would anneal a sealing ring he could not get to seal and the annealing always fixed a leak.

 

Just trying to help those who think they have to go out and make new rings.

 

I have cleaned up dozens on my wire wheel and they have all sealed well.

 

Same mechanic showed me that placing a large socket over the stuck valve cage where the spring normally sits and giving it a crisp rap with a hammer breaks the carbon holding the stuck cage.  A twist of wire from a parts tag through the valve keeper slot keeps the valve from dropping out.  Works like a charm.  He said he pulled thousands of cages back in the day.  

[Brian_Heil]

Here's a long thread on the valve job I did several years ago that newer members may have missed.

 

 

[Brian_Heil]

A footnote to the valve job - tune up post above.

 

6 years and at least 10,000 miles later I did a cold compression test this past Fall and all six cylinders were 60 or 61 psi with stock pistons and rings.

 

The spark plug of choice is now the Champion W89D

[DonMicheletti]

I have always been able to remove the lock ring, tap the end of the valve a couple of times (it usually moves up with each tap) and just lift the cage assembly out with my fingers. The sealing ring just comes out with the cage.

But then my car has been in operation all its life - never just sititng. There have been many before me.

I think the graphite is a big help.

[Morgan Wright]

17 hours ago, Brian_Heil said:

A twist of wire from a parts tag through the valve keeper slot keeps the valve from dropping out.  Works like a charm. 

 

We figured out on another thread a couple of years ago that the valves can't drop into the cylinder. The part of the combustion chamber above the cylinder is wider than the cylinder bore, and the valves are offset slightly apart so if the valve drops, the edge of the valve will hit the top edge of the cylinder wall which will catch it. This is true for exhaust as well as intake, at least in the 242 engine. Let me go take a picture.

[Morgan Wright]

Edited January 6, 2023 by Morgan Wright
change pic (see edit history)

[Brian_Heil]

I have a spare 1923 jug with the cages out of it.  I will inspect for the same.  Stay tuned. 
 

at a minimum the wire loop keeps you from fishing the valves out of the cage bore once the cage is removed. 

[Morgan Wright]

My spare 242 jughead. More pronounced in the exhaust than intake.

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2023 by Morgan Wright (see edit history)