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1925 Buick standard axle.


nzwookie
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I've had a hard time removing my rear right wheel. I ended up using à 10 ton puller with a bearing puller on the hub. Finally it came off when left under high pressure. I hope I haven't bent the axle! I need a new nut and waster and also the correct hub puller has damaged the brass threads on the hub.

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The right tool for the job is important. These rear wheels are quite a chore to remove without a correct puller. I made one for my 1925 Buick Standard.

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 Even so my frend who sourced a spare axle with correct wheels for me had a fit trying to get one wheel off even with the puller I sent him.

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The axle can be checked for runout if you replace the wheel, snug up the nut and spin it. A new nut cn be machined locally. I have made up the lock tab washers if needed.

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When using any wheel puller that pushes on the end of the axle you should BEFORE you put the puller on the hub take a drill that is the same size as the hold for the cotter key and tap in in the hole.  Then cut off the extra drill length.

 

Then use the puller.  After the wheel is loose or off, tap out the part of the drill bit that was in the cotter key hole.

 

By doing this, you will not damage the threads on the end of axle by collapsing the end of the axle.

 

Just a thought and what I do when pulling off hubs.

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4 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said:

When using any wheel puller that pushes on the end of the axle you should BEFORE you put the puller on the hub take a drill that is the same size as the hold for the cotter key and tap in in the hole.  Then cut off the extra drill length.

 

Then use the puller.  After the wheel is loose or off, tap out the part of the drill bit that was in the cotter key hole.

 

By doing this, you will not damage the threads on the end of axle by collapsing the end of the axle.

 

Just a thought and what I do when pulling off hubs.

What a great tip 

l will try that the next time I have to beat on something with a hole for a cotter key

thanks

John

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Thanks Guys. 

Someone must have had a hard time in the past as the hub has brass threads brazed on. I had the correct puller but it actually stripped the brass threads, that is when I had to use 10 ton puller with bearing puller on hub. The metals had welded themselves together over the years!

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Is the car drivable?  You might want to try this carefully.

 

If so, loosen the nut on the axle but do not remove it. Just enough to have maybe 1/8"-1/4" clearance from the nut to the hub.  A turn or so.

 

Then slowly drive the vehicle in figure 8's in a parking lot.  Hopefully the axle will pop loose from the hub.

 

This is an old type of way of getting stuck wheels off also.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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