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31 nash water distribution plate


31nash880

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Hello all,

Has been a bit since I wrote. Have had a busy summer and thanks to all here the nash traveled to cruise ins, car shows and even the distinguish gentlemen tour.

Now time to fix all I ignored last winter. Many questions to come but many have been answered.

Right now ordering parts and thanks to the people on the project/ restoration forum I got the name of a part I need fine. A water distribution plate. Any idea where to find or get pictures? Mine was gone.

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Years ago, my father had a similar problem in a Buick straight eight engine.  His fix was a piece of roofing lead cut & fitted to the inside (that will never rust again).  The original plate rust was stabilized, and it was body worked & painted.  It was almost un-detectable on the finished assembly.  

Edited by Mark Shaw (see edit history)
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Thanks Mark.

This is a plate the goes behind the cover. Have a piece of aluminum flashing in there right now. Have since found it has a name and a purpose. Another  member posted a pic from another vehicle showing baffles. Unknown what mine is suppose to look like.

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Like the title said, he needs info on the water "Distribution'' plate.  A piece of sheet lead is not going to direct water flow between the cylinders.

 

The Dorman Company / Dorman Products made aftermarket replacements for many makes back when these were old used cars.   There are some still around but they just have a the word Dorman and a 3 digit part number, and if a seller does not have a Dorman catalog, then the part never gets sold on ebay, etc. 

 

I don't know if the Nash club members could or would help with a picture because they are down to 1000 members for all years of Nash.

 

Some engines have a special cast water port just inside the front of the block or pump, then the distribution plate has a scoop shape there to force the water through the plate and out of the cylinder holes. 

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Was wondering where my post went and realised you've got two going!

See my 2nd response under Our Cars. I don't think there is anything super technical about the plate it so long as you get some water moving to the back of the block. I was thinking of making a flat plate and drilling 38 holes to match the cover but those covers can already be impossible to leakproof and I didn't want to add another gasket and compound the problem!

The other issue that comes with running without the plate is the the full force of the pump is directed at the gap between two cylinders which , at least in my case, accelerates the wear on the cast iron in that specific location .There is a noticeable difference on my engine in the block deterioration at that location. Could also be caused/contributed by the cavitation effects of running straight water ( or so I've heard)

 

Brad

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OK,

Cruising is over for the year. Had a great time. Time to tear things down and start repairs.

Biggest at this point is timing chain. Have 1 on order and started taking radiator out. Have to have it redone since last shop did not do a great job.

Anyhow, is there anything I should watch for or be aware of to do this?

Have done in the past but on 60s and 70s cars. Cannot fine timing gears so hope they are OK to reuse.

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Follow up,

Got radiator out of the way and removed water jacket cover. No signs my aluminum piece had problems. Pressure washed insides. 

Placed water hose in upper water outlet to rinse and back flush. Only had water from head at first 3 cylinders. Felt up , no obstructions. Is this OK or problem?

Still wondering about water distribution plate. 

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