Pierce-Arrow model 66

[29caddy]

Does anyone know if the Pierce-Arrow model 66 survived from the movie

"Cheaper by the Dozen"?  I like watching the movie, and seeing the Pierce, Thank-you, Joe

[Grimy]

Not a 66.  It's a 1919-20 due to lack of cast-in cowl lights.  Just did a search of PAS 1919-20 records for "cheaper" with negative results.  I'd guess it's a 38 hp (Series 31) from the relatively short wheelbase.

[29caddy]

George: I'm surprised, the movie catalog has it listed wrong, but they always don't know what their driving in theses movies half of the time.

IMCDb.org: 1917 Pierce-Arrow Model 66 in "Cheaper by the Dozen, 1950"

 

Here is a few more pictures,

 

 

[Grimy]

As I mentioned, cast-in cowl lamps were removed for 1919-20.  The movie car lacks them.

 

In June 1918, the Company dropped the 38 hp (134" wb) and 66 hp (147" wb) in favor of truck production for the war effort, and produced only one automobile series, the 48 hp dual valve (142" wb), of which 1,000 were built.  There were a few (some say 2, some say as many as six) experimental   66 hp dual valves built.  The only one I know of is in the Nethercutt Collection.

 

The 66 hp cars had very tall hoods as you might expect (5 x 7 bore and stroke), and there is virtually a straight line from the top center of the hood to the base of the windshield, irrespective of body style (different cowls for different body styles).  The 66 radiator filler sat very substantially taller than "12 o'clock" on the headlight bezels.  On Series 4 (1916-early 1918) 38 hp cars, and Series 31 (1919-20, also  38 SAE hp but now dual valve) the base of the radiator neck is level with the top of the headlights.  The Series 5 (48 hp dual valve, June 1918 forward--I have one) and series 51 (48 SAE hp, 1919-20) had lower radiators than previously but the top of the radiator was above the top of the headlights.

 

The 1919-20 Series 31 (38 hp SAE) commenced production about August 1919, and the Series 51 (48 SAE hp) commenced production about early May 1919 with but minor changes from the 1918 48-B-5 dual valve.  Also as mentioned, the postwar cars lacked cast-in cowl lamps and hood-top vents (some say the latter could be special-ordered, and I say they are needed!).

 

The first movie still (with the tree in the background) faithfully depicts what I consider to be a 134" wb.  The 1919-20 series 31 and 51 cars rode on 35 x 5 tires (25" wheels); the 66 cars used 37 x 5 (27" wheels) during series 4 (1916-early 1918), and they are visibly taller than the wheels we see in the movie car.

[29caddy]

Grimy: Thank-you for your input and information. I learned more today from your last post, Thank-you, Joe (29caddy) 

[edinmass]

The car is happy and doing well in California unless I’m mistaken. 

[edinmass]

Here it is today……..

 

 

[Grimy]

34 minutes ago, edinmass said:

The car is happy and doing well in California unless I’m mistaken. 

Actually, Ed, it's in your home state of Massachusetts, and the PAS website entry for the car claims the movie.  Serial #312064, found from the imdb link @29caddy provided.  Charlie L was the immediate previous owner.

[edinmass]

I think I drove it back when Charlie bought it………somehow I ended up hauling it home from the auction. Another long story! The car had terrible brakes when I drove it if it’s the same car………….too many shows, meets, and events to all keep straight anymore. 

[Grimy]

1 hour ago, edinmass said:

I think I drove it back when Charlie bought it………somehow I ended up hauling it home from the auction. Another long story! The car had terrible brakes when I drove it if it’s the same car………….too many shows, meets, and events to all keep straight anymore. 

Brakes:  There's a very good reason why the hand brake handle (external-contracting handle) stands so tall and proud on these cars--stamped brake drums.  Slow the car with the foot/service brake (internal-expanding) and finish the stop with the hand brake.  My calibrated seat-of-pants calc is the hand brake is 3x more powerful than the service brake. This helps prevent warping the drums.  Stay on top of the adjustment but leave at least .010 clearance cold all the way around, meaning adjusting every 3k miles--or for you, every 500 miles.  Scott H in CA has repopped drums in cast iron at a reasonable price.