TimFX Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 Hello all Ive removed the engine from the frame and the bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing. The transmission only seems to move out about 1/2” before stopping. Is there something stopping it? Do I just need to keep hammering them apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 I would remove the inspection cover on the bell housing and look at the throw out bearing area. On Mopar car the collar on the transmission swells up sometimes and won't slide out of the throw out bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 I thought of something like that, strangely, the vent/inspection cover has what looks like rivets and not screws holding it on. Not sure how to get it off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Just now, TimFX said: I thought of something like that, strangely, the vent/inspection cover has what looks like rivets and not screws holding it on. Not sure how to get it off! Can you raise it up enough to look up from beneath it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 There must be some way to inspect the clutch without removing rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 I will get it back on the hoist tomorrow and look underneath and then see if the inspection cover can be removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 5 minutes ago, TimFX said: I will get it back on the hoist tomorrow and look underneath and then see if the inspection cover can be removed There may be a spring attached to the transmission for the clutch release bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 The 35 Olds service manual doesn’t say anything about removing the transmission but the Motors manual just says unbolt and pull apart… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 (edited) Was this a running car? I wonder if you are fighting rust on the input shaft spline? I had a thread a while back about a 36 Pontiac transmission overhaul, and at the end of it I tried to document some of the differences at the front and the back between the Pontiac, Buick, and Oldsmobile variants of this transmission in the mid 30s. The thread is here. Some variants of this transmission use the bellhousing as the front bearing cover, and as I recall all the mid 30s Oldsmobiles were like that. Some variants do not have the throw out bearing support @DFeeney mentioned, Pontiac for instance. I don't know if Oldsmobile has it or not, but it wouldn't matter in your case. Even if it did have that throw out bearing support it would stay with the bellhousing because on an Oldsmobile the front bearing cover is the bellhousing. We need @Dandy Dave in this thread. I believe he overhauled one of the Oldsmobile variants, maybe a 1936, and not that long ago. Edited October 9, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Put two pry bars on each side of the trans/bell housing gap and work the trans back. Most likely the splines are worn and catching on the clutch disk. I would recommend turning the trans yoke back and forth while working the bars. I see the shift lever is off so I’m not sure if the trans is in gear or neutral. Your 35 looks very similar to my 32 and mine just slides back out. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 11 hours ago, Bloo said: We need @Dandy Dave in this thread. I believe he overhauled one of the Oldsmobile variants, maybe a 1936, and not that long ago. Yes. It should just pull out. The throwout bearing is carbon composite on these. Most likely sticky or stuck. Dandy Dave! Actually I'm still working on that 1936 inbetween other stuff. Dandy Dave! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 If the pilot bearing is actually a ball bearing, I have had an instance where the trans input shaft had rusted a bit and actually stuck in the bearing giving the same problem you see. I just pried it apart with no dmage. This was with a Buick - trans looks the same. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 Update still can’t get them separated. The input shaft looks super rusted so we soaked it and heated it up. It moves now on the clutch plate but it still wont release… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 How far back can you pull the transmission before it stops? Or does it not pull back at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 Only pulls out about 1/4” or so It feels like im missing a circlip or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Keep working it back and forth and use WD 40 to keep it wet. It should leach into the rust overnight. Use more force with in reason. Slow and easy is the word Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Looks like there`s enough room to slip a pry bar or large flat screw driver, between the trans case and bell housing to help separate the two. I agree with Don, most likely front tip of input shaft rusted to the pilot bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 We’ve been working on it all day with pry bars, pickle forks and drifts… soaked it down. Will try again in the morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 (edited) Be careful to pull straight back. I believe the bellhousing doubles as the bearing retainer on this one. That means the input gear will try to come forward. It can't come out because it is too big, but the teeth will be hitting against the case. Edited November 2, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave39MD Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Try PB Blaster or other penetrating oil instead of the wd40 Dave 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Good advice all. I suspect, as Don says, the pilot bearing. It should, however pull out of the flywheel if it's that stuck to the shaft. Might take a good yank though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) Well, it's most likely a Hyatt bearing like a Pontiac. I doubt the bearing is holding it, but if it is, put a breaker bar on the crank pulley, put some kind of bar on the transmission output, prop the clutch fork to a disengaged position somehow, put it in high gear, and twist. There isn't much surface area on the contact points of the rollers. Edited November 3, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 If the transmission is held to the bell housing with bolts and not studs, and the bolts are removed and if the transmission case can be moved reward enough to get a nut between the bell housing and the front of the transmission you could use 4 pieces of all thread screwed through the nuts and into the threaded bell housing holes. Then you could screw the nuts out 1 flat at a time to give a more even and constant outward force. Use judgement as not to break off the transmission case ears. In the trade these are called "Jack Bolts" ( I'm glad my 8th grade English teacher did not see the construction of this paragraph .) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted November 3, 2022 Author Share Posted November 3, 2022 DFeeney I was just in the process of milling down some bolts to fit between the Tcase and bell housing to do just that! Got some DeepCreep in there too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 (edited) Clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel. Just unbolt the trans first and pull it off. Then work on the stuck clutch. It will probably take heat to get it to release. Edited November 3, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted November 4, 2022 Author Share Posted November 4, 2022 The nut extraction method worked! it released with a bang The engine, which has sat in a barn for 40 years, is surprisingly clean. It turns over with little effort and aside from some light surface rust, the cylinders are super smooth! Thanks everyone for your input. This forum is a saviour! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 Glad to hear about your progress. I also have learned quite a bit from reading post from other's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whatever Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 On 11/4/2022 at 1:18 PM, TimFX said: The nut extraction method worked! it released with a bang The engine, which has sat in a barn for 40 years, is surprisingly clean. It turns over with little effort and aside from some light surface rust, the cylinders are super smooth! Thanks everyone for your input. This forum is a saviour! Hey Tim quick question would you happen to know how many block plugs the 213.3 has on it? I see 3 on one side and it does seam to have any on the back of the plug . Cheers David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimFX Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 19 hours ago, Whatever said: Hey Tim quick question would you happen to know how many block plugs the 213.3 has on it? I see 3 on one side and it does seam to have any on the back of the plug . Cheers David Only 3 plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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