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Engine swap advice.


Deanoko
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I'm going to be swapping a fresh rebuilt KW code 425 into my 64 Riv.  It currently has a 65 401 with matching switch pitch trans.  

I'm wondering if I should leave the tranny in place and just remove the engine OR remove both 401 and trans and do the trans swap over out of the car? I have a cherry picker, 4 post lift and 2 engine stands. Assuming I will remove the hood as well.  I di have an Oberg tilt lift which will tilt the engine (+trans?) as far as I need to.  Any advice appreciated. 

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Normally I'd be inclined to pull both, do the swap, then reinstall them together.  Since you have a lift it should be possible to get the tailshaft angle necessary to get it back in without hitting the floor.  That said, I would consider pulling the motor alone on my '67 because there is a lot of room between the bellhousing and the firewall, since the 2nd gen E-body was set up to accommodate FWD...

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It is a steep tilt to get the engine and transmission out in one piece. You might have to put something under the front wheels to raise the car and still have to dangerously lift the tailshaft by hand to get the lift.

 

From experience, if I do it again, I would remove the distributor until everything is in place, at least the cap.

 

AND DON"T  FORGET TO PUT THE OIL SENDING UNIT ON!

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I did about the same swap a couple of years ago. When I did it I was considering pulling both pieces at once, but opted to pull them separately because I didn't want to damage anything by lifting both at such an extreme angle up over the core support. I used a transmission jack to support the transmission and at one point I had to improvise an engine support fixture to support the rear of the engine while I removed the bell housing  bolts. If you decide to try and remove both pieces at once I would definitely want to have some help just to guide the tailshaft of the transmission and keep it in a safe place. 

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Thanks all.  I will definitely have help.  1 or maybe 2 extra bodies.  I have installed the oil pressure sender, so that's good.  Leaning toward leaving the trans in place.  I will raise the car back up on the lift and see what tunnel cleanaces I have to refit the bell housing to block.

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Make sure the torque converter is lose from the crankshaft, may have to pry it back because of rust, & support the trans.  Don't just let it hang. Don't trust a floor jack to hold it into place they ALL leak down to some extent. Rope under the front of the trans. in front of the oil pan & around the frame rails or some other way to keep the trans. in the same position.

There should be little or no noticeable problems with jetting or otherwise. IF you look in the chassis manual jets & metering rods are the same IF I remember correctly. It's the idle air bleeds & idle jets that are slightly different.

 

Tom T.

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