1921 (?) switch

[yachtflame]

 Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this switch?

Edited September 11, 2022 by yachtflame (see edit history)

[JFranklin]

Usually those items are marked on the back side where the wires go. What is the application?

[Hubert_25-25]

The handles are missing from the switch as well.

[Morgan Wright]

What he said ^^^^^^^^^

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/223487342612?hash=item3408e23814:g:1MwAAOSwnRJbfe6f&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBiVD%2BZ6LK%2B3vNqu6MP%2BXu0YpZHLB%2BESwcAq%2B1pDioo0Xk2h7Z81UapGa%2B5m7ndPWSC5BCkaTUE3L0nXDgiX2NZ15zeEdD5sgHw5z2Gd613zlDIdUenVkfgrZhBcUj4TbxfB1WN5SUwbQ7%2FiYwiq6ptnfHedhjYo15wU7BdBOy%2FFfk2fII6G567kB%2BMXi3ABVoSQnixReyQFZkGTmxTOnRVXu28Ma2N24USvXFMbi1xd|tkp%3ABk9SR5jX25HkYA

Edited September 9, 2022 by Morgan Wright (see edit history)

[yachtflame]

Thank you for your replies. Yes I know the levers are not on it. I removed them so they don’t get broken while working on it. The back side only shows numbers 1-9 but no indication of wiring diagram. I have made a chart of which terminals connect to others as the levers are turned but I would still like to see a diagram. Does anyone here have the diagram?

 Thank you for your help.

[Mark Shaw]

[Hubert_25-25]

That is an earlier model switch than what belongs in a 1927, but it will still work.  

[IFDPete]

It looks very much like the switch in my 1921 model 46.  Pete

1921 Wiring Diagram below.

Edited September 9, 2022 by IFDPete
picture added (see edit history)

[yachtflame]

Thank you, this will help!

[yachtflame]

What is the black rotary dial at the top used for? 

[Hubert_25-25]

That rotary knob turns the instrument light bulb on and off.  

This is what a 1927 Buick Standard switch looks like.

 

 

[yachtflame]

So I guess this is a 1921 switch?

[Hubert_25-25]

It seems that way to me.  Pot metal parts used inside cause failure of the switch arms. The whole unit probaby was switched out for one that was working.  

Bobs Automobilia sells repair parts and may have rebuilt switches as well.   

[IFDPete]

It looks like 1921 to me.  But I am not familiar with 1920, 1922, or 1923.  The  parts for those years may be similar.  Buick changed many things in 1924. The electric wiring diagram I posted shows the 1921 part number as 1159 for Buick.  Are there any numbers printed or stamped on the side or back of it?  I see that you have keys for it which adds value.

Edited September 9, 2022 by IFDPete (see edit history)

[yachtflame]

No numbers on the side or back. The insides are real clean. Only problem I see is the copper “arms” with contacts going up the front of the coil has one copper arm broken off half way. I’ll have to take it apart and make a new unit.

 

[dibarlaw]

This is the earlier Kellogg switch not for a 1927. 

[dibarlaw]

This is what the internals look like.

At least what the 1925 one looks like.

[yachtflame]

The insides of the switch look really good. No corrosion or debris. The only problem seems to be one of the two contact “arms” is steel and has rusted severely and lost its contact point. I’m wondering why they made one out of copper and the other one in steel. I have a second switch that was given to me for parts and it has the same problem.

 Does anyone know where to get replacement parts for this switch? I know Bob’s Automobilia has the bases, faces, levers and “glass” but they don’t list these contact parts. I need the steel “arm” and new insulated bushings. I’ve super glued and filed the original bushings but I’d rather have new ones.

 

 

 

 

[Peter R.]

On 9/11/2022 at 9:52 PM, yachtflame said:

Does anyone know where to get replacement parts for this switch?

Delco used 3-, 4- or 5-digit numbers to identify equipment. The Delco P/N for the 1921 Buick combination switch would be 1159. you should find the number in the back of the switch (see examples 1205 and 1272). I attached the Delco-Buick application Index so you can assign your switch to the correct year and model. Let me know if you also need the pre-1921 index. I could also post the correct wiring diagram accordingly.

I should be able to help you with the parts you need.

 

 

Edited September 12, 2022 by Peter R. (see edit history)

[Peter R.]

23 hours ago, yachtflame said:

I’m wondering why they made one out of copper and the other one in steel.

The one out of copper appears to be an actual contact, the one out of steel may be just acting as a spring….however, it is made out of spring steel.

[yachtflame]

Peter,

  I assumed that since one was steel, it wasn’t really a contact and was probably a spring. Do you sell parts for these? If so I need the spring “arm” and the two insulating bushings that the screws go through. I was going to make them out of plastic on my lathe but I’m not sure how hot they get and what kind of plastic I’d need. I’d be easier to get them from someone that’s already invented that wheel!

 Others then that, this switch is in really good shape. New levers, face and glass (Lexington) front and it should be like new!

[Peter R.]

Send me a PM with your shipping address and I will send you a spring arm and two insulating bushings (in an envelope). If I don‘t have the bushings I will make some. I do have the appropriate material. I‘m using a TPC duroplast (Thermosetting Phenolic Composite).

[yachtflame]

I’m hoping you received my PM. I’ve been having problems with my iPhone recently.

[Peter R.]

Got it…👍

[garnetkid]

Peter R.  do your records show what year a Buick Kellogg 1133 switch is used?  I have one in my inventory but don't know what year or years it was used.   Thanks, Leon

[Peter R.]

Leon,

Delco combination switch # 1133 was used on all Buick models of 1919 (domestic and export).

 

Peter

[garnetkid]

Thank you Peter, very much appreciated.  Leon

[Peter R.]

15 hours ago, garnetkid said:

Thank you Peter, very much appreciated.  Leon

My pleasure….

Here‘s the first page of my records so you have the complete early Delco equipment application index for Buick (except for 1926).

 

[Mark Kikta]

I have posted a thread on rebuilding the Kellogg 1159 which is the correct switch for your car as well.  There are no pot metal pieces in this switch.  Everything is brass and copper pretty much.

 

Here is the link to my thread:

 

 

[Mark Kikta]

Here is the diagram I used to wire my switch

 

[yachtflame]

I just received parts from Bob’s Automobilia for this switch. They had levers but seems they were for a different switch. I had to drill out the lower part to fit over the lever shafts and then cut it to proper height. The paper faces ( I got one black one and a white one to see which I liked best), were a little disappointing. They were round but didn’t have the key hole in the bottom and the black one tho nice and shiny didn’t have all the lettering. The white one had the proper lettering but was not shiny which made it look a little older. Neither had Buick written on it.

 Then there was the “glass” to cover the face. I don’t know what was used originally but this is a 1/4” thigh piece of Lexan which they told me to expect. I’m just wondering what was used originally on these switches. I can’t imagine it being 1/4” glass. Does anyone here know what was originally used?

 

[Hubert_25-25]

Originals were glass on front - if you are talking about the combination switches with the nickel bezel.   The bezel was round for the Standard with tabs crimped around the housing.  The master has the bezel in the dashboard.  Notice that there is a nickel plated ring around the dash light switch and the key hole.  This went thru the glass and the paper.  These rings were crimped over the paper.  There were several papers used depending on the years.  The paper text changed with year and model.  none of mine say Buick.  Delco at first, them Delco-Remy.  Lots of holes to drill in glass so I imagine a large pile of broken glass at the factory

 

   

Hugh   

 

[yachtflame]

This is the one I’m working with .

[Hubert_25-25]

The early style does not use paper on the face or glass.  

[yachtflame]

I’ve been trying to get the face plate off my switch. I straighten the 4 tabs in the back but it doesn’t want to come off. It appears that the “grommets” around the lever shafts are holding it in place. Is this the case?

[yachtflame]

Has anyone successfully removed the faceplate?