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water valve diaphragm - A/C


cquisuila
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The water valve diaphragm is a vacuum activated valve which will control the flow of engine coolant through the cabin heater core. When the cabin temperature calls for heat, the valve is closed allowing the engine coolant to pass through the heater core where the blower fan can then move air through the core and produce warm air in the cabin. Conversely, when the cabin temperature does not call for heat, the valve is opened and coolant is bypassed thus not passing through the heater core. The open (bypassed) position would be especially important when the AC is running. ;)

Edited by RodA67Riv
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9 hours ago, RodA67Riv said:

The water valve diaphragm is a vacuum activated valve which will control the flow of engine coolant through the cabin heater core. When the cabin temperature calls for heat, the valve is closed allowing the engine coolant to pass through the heater core where the blower fan can then move air through the core and produce warm air in the cabin. Conversely, when the cabin temperature does not call for heat, the valve is opened and coolant is bypassed thus not passing through the heater core. The open (bypassed) position would be especially important when the AC is running. ;)

OK thank you

My year is 1966

And i don t find this water valve...

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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Hello Philippe,

 

I'm sorry, I don't have a nailhead as my '67 is a 430, otherwise I would take a picture for you from my own engine.

 

I found a couple of nailhead engine pictures online which should help you identify the valve. If you follow the heater core coolant hose which passes through the firewall towards the intake manifold, you should find the water valve in line with the hose.

 

image.png.55a5d6171366d059423bc8dc6e4718ff.pngimage.png.006b33178c5fcd09f5cd0dfa27975c44.png

 

Best of luck,

Rod

image.png

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1 hour ago, cquisuila said:

image.png.332a7f96d1ae3fc2b635be2df7a7d972.pnghere my engine

and no water valve...🙃

 

Looks like the valve was removed at some point. Luckily, there are replacement units available if you want to pursue getting one. 

 

image.png.098a505dcd0c55aadd93dd4564fae0f7.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

hello

 

I have just restored the compressor.

 the belt now drives the compressor

 

BUT now, the engine tends to overheat

 

there isn't yet water valve on circuit (ordered part)

image.png.b146ff718110899415c54c6fab07d11b.png

 

I add that i have not water leak and the water circuit was flushed

And the water pump is new.

The fan motor turns and a shroud is positioned.

The water circulates in and out the heater core.

 

so what could be the problem please ?

 

- Heater core ?

- temporary absence of water valve ?

 

Thank for yours possible solutions !

Philip

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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Hi Philip,

 

The absence of the water valve might reduce some of the coolant flow thru the radiator, but I wouldn't think that that would be a significant issue. I would lean towards a blockage in the radiator or a problem with the fan clutch. Check that the fan clutch is engaging when the engine is warmed up. There should be good resistance on the ability to turn the fan when the engine is hot - compare it to your ability to turn the fan when the engine is cold. I'm also assuming that the fan shroud is in place.

 

Let us know.

 

Regards,

Rod

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here the heater system :

image.png.0960e227a96bdfca924e30536c7f5f6f.png

 

 

> the plenum blower air turns when i use the fan switch ON

 

is a another fan ?

where is the fan clutch ?

problem with evaporator core ? Heater core ?

 

 

SORRY but i don't know the system...:( so i put a lot of questions

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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Philip you say the water pump is new did you put it in? Your engine timing cover could be corroded behind the pump vanes to the point of needing replacement. It's not uncommon. 

Start the car with engine cold and radiator cap removed. As engine reches operating temp the thermostat should open, starting a lot of visible coolant movement.

 

With that said, if you were my next door neighbor in France my gut would check ignition timing before anything else.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, gungeey said:

Philip you say the water pump is new did you put it in?

Your engine timing cover could be corroded behind the pump vanes to the point of needing replacement. It's not uncommon. 

Start the car with engine cold and radiator cap removed. As engine reches operating temp the thermostat should open, starting a lot of visible coolant movement.

 

With that said, if you were my next door neighbor in France my gut would check ignition timing before anything else.

 

I changed myself the pump and engine timing and the thermostat opens without problem (tested individually)

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I would say that the radiator core (the tubes) are partially blocked, preventing full cooling capacity.

 

Where in France are you located?  I am in Aix-en-Provence right now for a few days, then headed to Nice.

 

The "fan clutch" mentioned is mounted to the water pump shaft, and then the metal radiator cooling fan mounts to this clutch.  When this clutch goes bad from age, the fan does not turn fast enough to cool the radiator when the engine is hot and the car is not moving. When the engine is hot and you raise he RPM of the engine, the fan should "roar". The noise should be noticeable.  If not, the clutch may be bad.

 

Checking initial ignition timing is also a good idea.  It only takes a few minutes to check it.

 

Edited by Jim Cannon (see edit history)
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hello

i am in MONT DE MARSAN IN DEPARTEMENT OF LANDES

 

40000 MONT DE MARSAN

 

ON MY CAR i haven't clutch front the fan radiator :(

as this picture for example

 

 

 

image.png.ddd73778ea3d1ce4dce16523a46759e5.png

i think that this part misses on my engine ! no ??

 

image.png.2d394ae4f1368f0927140a59c41be141.png

 

 

so i just order this part !!

 

thank you for your help !

philippe

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, cquisuila said:

hello

 

I have just restored the compressor.

 the belt now drives the compressor

 

BUT now, the engine tends to overheat

 

there isn't yet water valve on circuit (ordered part)

image.png.b146ff718110899415c54c6fab07d11b.png

 

I add that i have not water leak and the water circuit was flushed

And the water pump is new.

The fan motor turns and a shroud is positioned.

The water circulates in and out the heater core.

 

so what could be the problem please ?

 

- Heater core ?

- temporary absence of water valve ?

 

Thank for yours possible solutions !

Philip

The photo above has air conditioning compressor.

 

This is why I thought you have this option.

 

But in the later photo I see no Air Conditioning. Now I understand that this second photo was an example, not your car.

 

I return to my original idea: your radiator core is not working good enough to cool the engine.  You need to get the tubes cleaned out or replace the tubes with a new radiator core (keep the radiator tanks) that has 4 rows of tubes in it for extra cooling.

 

Edited by Jim Cannon (see edit history)
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Ok, I'm going to throw my two cents in. The fan you have is a four blade fan and is for a car without AC. It has now been established that you also don't have the fan clutch.

You need to install a fan clutch and the correct fan. The correct fan will have five or six blades. I think the pitch of the blades is also different than the four blade fan. Now that you have the compressor installed, the load on the engine is more than before causing the engine temperature to increase and there is not enough air flow with fan setup you have.

 Jim Cannon has suggested the radiator may be partially plugged. I certainly think that should be a consideration also. Another thing to check, as mentioned previously, is that the radiator has a four row core. Being the fan is not correct, it may not be a far stretch to consider that the radiator may not be for an AC equipped car. 

 

  Best wishes with solving your issue,

   Loren

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thank you for your explication !!!:) :)

 

i have a 5 blades fan it is good

 

i will fit the clutch when i will receive the part

i will put the water valve (i just received)

and after, i will test the temperature ;)

 

information : the precedent user had disconnected the compressor and the belt was only for alternator; myself, i put the compressor back in the circuit, the belt but i haven't sawn that the clutch missed....) ;)

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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13 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

I see you are south of Bordeaux.  That is too far west of me on this trip for me to visit.  I hope to go to Bordeaux on my next visit to France. I will contact you before I arrive.

 

 

super ! with pleasure !!! :)

thank you Jim !

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On 9/23/2022 at 2:29 AM, cquisuila said:

thank you for your explication !!!:) :)

 

i have a 5 blades fan it is good

 

i will fit the clutch when i will receive the part

i will put the water valve (i just received)

and after, i will test the temperature ;)

 

information : the precedent user had disconnected the compressor and the belt was only for alternator; myself, i put the compressor back in the circuit, the belt but i haven't sawn that the clutch missed....) ;)

Perhaps... without the fan clutch, the fan is sitting too far away from the radiator to pull air thru it sufficiently. I suspect that without the clutch, that the fan is sitting behind the shroud allowing some air to be pulled around (instead of thru) the radiator. I would still opt for having the radiator flushed, or better yet, re-cored. You don't ever want to get into an overheating situation. A well operating radiator is a good investment.

Edited by RodA67Riv
clarification (see edit history)
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