'65 fan Q

[RIVNIK]

greetings gents! From time to time I see talk of replacing the clutch fan w a HD one from a 1 ton truck. So far I have"GM" from an old post, & I just got the last three nos."301' from Telriv. Anyone have any additional details? If I show up at my usual parts stores w such scant info (even NAPA sad to say), I'm pretty sure they're going to give me the usual blank stares. Thanks if you can help.      Drew

[telriv]

The full NAPA number:  271301

 

Tom T.

[jframe]

I have a receipt at home from the one I bought a few weeks ago. I will post the part number this evening when I get home.

[RIVNIK]

thank you Tom & Mark for the quick replies! Im on it asap!

[Turbinator]

Tom Telesco suggested I put the one ton GM severe duty clutch fan in my 63 to help with AC while in traffic jams stop lights etc. The clutch fan helps with the AC cooling because it pulls more air across the evaporator. The clutch fan helps keep the 401 running on the cool side with the AC around 190 on the highway up to 210 in traffic. I use a 160 thermostat and I have a 2L hidden coolant overflow tank. All the add on extras are suggestions Tom Telesco made to increase performance of the engine. Tom and I drove my 63 Riv from Lutherville MD to Branson MO and back with NOT one item causing concern. We averaged 12-14 per gallon with both driving. Had Tom T driven all the way Dale Earnhardt would be proud and gasoline mileage would have been better. We drove 70-75 mph on Interstate highway. It was a good trip. Gasoline prices at $5.00 plus made me wince a time or two, but that was all. Tom is a great driver and a very funny individual.
Turbinator

Edited August 19, 2022 by Turbinator (see edit history)

[Riviera63]

3 hours ago, RIVNIK said:

greetings gents! From time to time I see talk of replacing the clutch fan w a HD one from a 1 ton truck. So far I have"GM" from an old post, & I just got the last three nos."301' from Telriv. Anyone have any additional details? If I show up at my usual parts stores w such scant info (even NAPA sad to say), I'm pretty sure they're going to give me the usual blank stares. Thanks if you can help.      Drew

Drew,

 

Here are part numbers that I have gleaned from the forum over the years for the fan clutch. It looks like they are all available from various sources.

 

Imperial 215049     NAPA 217301      Murray 2705

 

Bill

 

[RIVNIK]

I will begin my search at NAPA later today. Hopefully they will know if Tom's 271301 or Bill's 217301 is the correct one. thanks again, guys!                                          Drew

[telriv]

I took that "271" directly/right off the NAPA box.

 

Tom T.

[RIVNIK]

thanks for the affirmation TT

[RIVNIK]

Pardon my ignorance but I can't seem to find specific instructions in the shop manual.  Can the clutch-fan assembly be replaced w/out disturbing the belts & pulleys? The 4 bolts that attach it to the 1st (power steering) pulley look like they might also hold the pulley onto the water pump.                                                   any schooling greatly appreciated.   Drew

[telriv]

Drew,

 

IF the belts are NOT over tightened this can be accomplished with the pulleys & belts installed.

 

1st. loosen the 4 bolts/nuts, should be nuts & NO lock washers with studs, a couple turns each. One nut should be located at the bottom. Opposite from the top. Remove this 1st. Then go to the 2 sides across from each other. Now all you need to do is remove the last top nut. Go slowly as the pulley will want to cock. We are trying to keep the pulley from coming loose off the water pump nose. IF the pulley doesn't cock after a couple turns of the nut it's tight on the stub shaft of the water pump, so before completely removing the bolt wiggle the fan blade/clutch assembly back & forth to help break it free from it's hold on the shaft. Once you have a little clearance you can put the blade of a medium sized screwdriver in the gap to help break the hold free. Be careful with the fan blade/clutch assembly while carefully removing the assembly. IF you have done it correctly the pulley will stay put, but cocked at an angle.

 

Install the assembled fan carefully. You DON'T want to disturb the pulley. Carefully get the top nut started on the stud. BE CAREFUL not to cross thread. Once started you should be able to turn it 1-2 turns. Now grab the fan blade & pull it towards you with one hand & it will slightly put some pressure on the pulley so that you can get the 2 side nuts started & carefully turn a couple turns each. You should be able to just about seat the hub to the pulley. Now put on the bottom nut. Again, snug all the nuts a couple turns. Now it's just a matter of getting all the holding hardware tight.

IF any of the nuts are tight starting out you may have started one cross threaded so stop.

Once you feel all the nuts are seated go back & check to be sure. To take this one step further you could remove 1 nut at a time & put on some Red Loctite for extra insurance nothing will come apart down the road.

 

Ask the Turbinater what we did on his '63 Riv. with A/C when the fan blade broke about 60 miles from his home. Drove the car vibrating, somewhat slowly to the hotel many of the club members were at. After waiting a couple hours for the flatbed/tow truck a member was driving by & I asked IF he had a 1/2" wrench & could borrow. Which he did. Removed the clutch assembly & put the nuts back on the pulley & drove the car home. 

It was very POSSIBLE as he had installed a MECHANICAL temp. gauge, electric is not as accurate as it NEEDS to react to temps. immediately which electric DOESN'T do, which we used to monitor the coolant temp.  As long as I wasn't traveling more than 65MPH on the highway temps. stayed in check. From the highway to his home is about 5-6miles or so & NOT highway speeds. It was starting to climb towards 230*. When we reached his driveway I DIDN'T turn the engine off. Got the water hose & sprayed the rad. to help cool it down to about 170* or so then drove it into the garage.

 

Tom T.

 

 

Edited August 22, 2022 by telriv (see edit history)

[RIVNIK]

You're the man,Tom!  thanks for the detailed instructions. As soon as I receive my clutch I will get on it. 

[Turbinator]

Gents, what Tom said about the event is 100% accurate. I’ve never had a fan blade shatter. Damned if it didn’t shatter.

Turbinator

[Seafoam65]

A fan blade cracking is not all that uncommon.....there have been people

killed by a fan blade flying out of a car and hitting them in the face while leaning

over the car with the engine running and hood up. It's a good idea to inspect the

fan blade periodically for any hairline cracks.

[Turbinator]

5 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:

A fan blade cracking is not all that uncommon.....there have been people

killed by a fan blade flying out of a car and hitting them in the face while leaning

over the car with the engine running and hood up. It's a good idea to inspect the

fan blade periodically for any hairline cracks.

Winston, believe you. I never would have guessed. I suppose I have not seen as much as others in the automotive world.

Turbinator 

[MikeJS]

13 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:

t's a good idea to inspect the

fan blade periodically for any hairline cracks.

Good day.

 

When I was a teenager, I once had a fan blade break off on an in-line six in a Pontiac Laurentian. Just as I accelerated after sitting at a set of lights, I heard a very loud bang that scared the chit outta me, When I pulled over the engine was running but at extremely rough idle. Shut it down and opened the hood, couldn't see anything at first, no fluids on the ground, nothing.  So scratching my head I figured I would see if I could nurse it home. Once I got the revs up driving it was fine but idle was like a bucking bronc. When I got home, I eventually noticed the blade that broke off  actually embedded into the frame rail. Replaced the fan and a motor mount and all was fine. The blade would've certainly came through the hood if it had released at that point. Wild stuff. So yes, metal fatigue is real.

 

Later,