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Got My Manifolds Today


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I finally got my intake, exhaust and valve box today for my 38 special. The guy I got it from did an amazing packing job. He made the box and bolted the piece inside insuring it would arrive safely. And that's not all, he sand blasted it before he shipped it, I'm so impressed! The unit appears to be in good condition, even the exhaust flapper is free.

 

Now where can I get copper manifold and carburetor gaskets?

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8 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

Remflex, or in general?  I just snugged all of my manifold nuts after noticing a slight exhaust leak.  Several of the nuts took ~1/4 turn without much effort.

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14 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Remflex, or in general?  I just snugged all of my manifold nuts after noticing a slight exhaust leak.  Several of the nuts took ~1/4 turn without much effort.

In general.   From factory there were NO gaskets.  The manifolds needed to move slightly.  If tightened to much, they cannot.  Gaskets will "bunch" up and leak from this movement.  

 

 Ideally, today, the manifold and head would be resurfaced so both are flat, then installed with no gasket.  Impractical unless rebuilding the engine.  Hence, gaskets.

 

  I know a fellow , with a 1937 sedan with a 1951 263, that uses only high temp gasket maker. Swears this is all he uses , and no leaks.

 

  Good luck

 

  Ben

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Thanks, Ben.  Mine has gaskets, but they aren't copper (look like some sort of white fiber/metal composite).  I fully expect I'll be replacing them with Remflex in the future...

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Okay, lets talk about the exhaust flapper in the exhaust valve box. The flapper on my original manifold was frozen so I cut it out. On my new manifold the flapper works freely but the counter weight is broken off. Questions:

What is the flapper for? My automatic choke does not work and I'm running with no flapper now. The car starts right up runs fine.

Is the counter weight necessary or is using just the spring okay?

Should I cut the flapper out?

Should I cut the counter weight off the old manifold and have it welded to the new? Not much meat to weld.

Thanks

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If you want it to operate properly you'll need to get the counterweight attached somehow.  If the car runs fine without manifold heat, then you can remove the flapper (like the old one) or do what I did and just wire it open.

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