likeold Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 I finally got my intake, exhaust and valve box today for my 38 special. The guy I got it from did an amazing packing job. He made the box and bolted the piece inside insuring it would arrive safely. And that's not all, he sand blasted it before he shipped it, I'm so impressed! The unit appears to be in good condition, even the exhaust flapper is free. Now where can I get copper manifold and carburetor gaskets? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 I have been very pleased with Remflex gaskets. http://catalog.remflex.com/BUICK_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/13-007.htm 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Also look at Olson's: https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/products/?application=automotive&make=buick&cylinder=8&model=40&page=1 https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/gaskets/buick-8-cylinder-40-50-series-1934-53-intake-and-exhaust-manifold-set-copper/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 (edited) Rem Flex. From Summit Racing. They will out last the copper/composite several times. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Ben Edited July 22, 2022 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 8 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN Remflex, or in general? I just snugged all of my manifold nuts after noticing a slight exhaust leak. Several of the nuts took ~1/4 turn without much effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 14 minutes ago, EmTee said: Remflex, or in general? I just snugged all of my manifold nuts after noticing a slight exhaust leak. Several of the nuts took ~1/4 turn without much effort. In general. From factory there were NO gaskets. The manifolds needed to move slightly. If tightened to much, they cannot. Gaskets will "bunch" up and leak from this movement. Ideally, today, the manifold and head would be resurfaced so both are flat, then installed with no gasket. Impractical unless rebuilding the engine. Hence, gaskets. I know a fellow , with a 1937 sedan with a 1951 263, that uses only high temp gasket maker. Swears this is all he uses , and no leaks. Good luck Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Thanks, Ben. Mine has gaskets, but they aren't copper (look like some sort of white fiber/metal composite). I fully expect I'll be replacing them with Remflex in the future... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
likeold Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 I'm gonna run with copper, that's what is in there now and I have had no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 These were brand new copper gaskets after three summers of driving: 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Are you using belleville washers? https://www.google.com/search?q=belleville+washers&client=opera&hs=TUo&sxsrf=ALiCzsZppm6SCr44lfTPkQnLdueQPdgWPQ:1658544457526&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiqrPDJ_435AhW_rIkEHbhFBhYQ_AUoAXoECAIQAw&biw=1253&bih=626&dpr=1.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
likeold Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 Okay, lets talk about the exhaust flapper in the exhaust valve box. The flapper on my original manifold was frozen so I cut it out. On my new manifold the flapper works freely but the counter weight is broken off. Questions: What is the flapper for? My automatic choke does not work and I'm running with no flapper now. The car starts right up runs fine. Is the counter weight necessary or is using just the spring okay? Should I cut the flapper out? Should I cut the counter weight off the old manifold and have it welded to the new? Not much meat to weld. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 If you want it to operate properly you'll need to get the counterweight attached somehow. If the car runs fine without manifold heat, then you can remove the flapper (like the old one) or do what I did and just wire it open. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
likeold Posted July 26, 2022 Author Share Posted July 26, 2022 I decided to remove the flapper all together and put bolts in the rod holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 (edited) A word of warning: with the flapper removed you will get constant heat on the floor of the intake manifold. Better to leave it in, locked in the bypass (deflected downwards) position. Edited July 26, 2022 by Daves1940Buick56S (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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