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No more over heating!


RobertH
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I picked up my survivor Buick back in late May and it did have some over heating problems.  3 miles into town and back would see it hit 200 and boil out(overflow). I did drain and add some radiator flush and rinsed that out.  Still no cure.  I then pulled the t-stat and bypass.  The bypass was all gummed up with some sticky, greasy whatever, but seem to be in great shape.  Cleaned everything and polished the brass shaft(which popped right out with a little tap).  Reassembled everything and filled it up with distilled water.  A couple of short trips to town and the temp gauge sat on 180 the whole trip. 

On Saturday July 9 was the Reynolds Alberta Museum  car show. A 25 minute drive at 55 mph and the temp held at 180.  When we arrived, to my dismay there was a 1/4 mile lineup of antiques, customs, hot rods and others lined up to get in.  After 35-40 minutes of idling up to the gate the temp had risen to 190 on the gauge( to my delight). I had added a catch can to the overflow and there about a cup or so of liquid in it.

Now to get some anti freeze in there and get the system back to normal.,,

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So, are you saying that the root cause was a problem with the coolant bypass valve?  Is your valve functional?  Many people on this forum (including yours truly) have modified the bypass valve to essentially lock it in the 'non-bypass' position (which allows minimal coolant bypass).  Did you get any crud from the radiator when you flushed it?  I have a stocking filter in my '38 and I'd suggest you run one as well; at least long enough to determine whether there's any rusty scale/sludge circulating in your system.  If there is, it will eventually plug your radiator.

 

See this thread for reference: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/381501-grimys-sock-cooling-system-filter/#comment-2396383

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

So, are you saying that the root cause was a problem with the coolant bypass valve?  Is your valve functional?  Many people on this forum (including yours truly) have modified the bypass valve to essentially lock it in the 'non-bypass' position (which allows minimal coolant bypass).  Did you get any crud from the radiator when you flushed it?  I have a stocking filter in my '38 and I'd suggest you run one as well; at least long enough to determine whether there's any rusty scale/sludge circulating in your system.  If there is, it will eventually plug your radiator.

 

See this thread for reference: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/381501-grimys-sock-cooling-system-filter/#comment-2396383

I think it was the coolant bypass valve and it seems to work great at the moment. I've read about modifying the valve or using the frost plug mod, but I think I'll stick with this for now. When I flushed, there didn't seem to be unusual debris other than off color green coolant.  Thanks for the link and the advice about the sock. Certainly something to think about.

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7 hours ago, RobertH said:

...other than off color green coolant.

That's usually a clue that there's some rust debris in the coolant.  Install a short (ankle-high) stocking held under the upper hose and poke it into the upper tank.  Keep the fabric pinched under the hose, as exposed stocking will allow coolant to wick out.  That's not a big deal, but it will make a mess over time.  I think you'll be amazed at what you find when you check the stocking after a few hundred miles...

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Friend Dave drove his 1941-47 to this years BCA nationals from Silver Spring, MD. He had bad overheating on the way up. He purchased a better radiator at the meet back flushed it at the car wash station and has done all the above fixes. Things are better but still not where he wants it. Originally he had sent the radiator that came with the car out to be re-cored. The shop would not have it ready for the nationals trip so it was cleaned and reassmbled for the trip.

thumbnail_20201107_104319.jpg.f0c19540e616421c7af37321ecdf6f56.jpg 

2020 AACA Fall meet at Gettysburg.

 

Edited by dibarlaw (see edit history)
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