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Model A Ford ...nightmare


Dandy Dave

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I slid the motor in this 29 Ford Pickup today. I can't seem to make the motor mount bolts work as none of the holes line up I think someone swaped left for right, or put in ones not from this vehicle originally. Anyone else had this problem? The bolts came out hard when I pulled the old motor out also. Get one in and the others are 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch out. As I said earlier, the starting crank also did not line up. Front mount is too far forward. Needs to be back al least 1/4 inch. To swap then I have to disconnect the tail and brake light wires and pull them though as they run right though the left side mount. I put new bolts, spacers and, rubber in them also. Any input fellows?   

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Been about 45 years since I was close to model A engine mounts. As I recall, the rear mounts were made of cut, stamped, folded, steel plate metal (about 3/16 inch?). They were interchangeable from side to side as up/down were equal. However front was front, back was back.

The front engine mount was part of the front crossmember on the early and much of 1928 cars. A weakness in that design resulted in a modification to the front crossmember, and replacing it with a spring and rubber mounted "Y" to support the front of the engine. That "Y" had a slight offset. Could it have been flipped? Just a thought.

 

Although generally, the model A rear mounts were quite substantial, and usually fit right in? That steel plate they were made of could be bent or twisted if the car were ever in a collision. It certainly would not take much for the bolts to line up well.

 

I would imagine there are no signs of frame damage on the pickup?

 

It is the uncooperative silly stuff that drives us nuts!

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I think it's possible that the rear mounts can be rotated backwards (180 degrees). It sounds like you're close though so maybe loosen everything up including where mounts bolt to frame and get all bolts started then tighten everything.

  Are they oriented like so?

Ready To Ramble: 1930 Ford Model A Roadster | Barn Finds

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13 hours ago, pkhammer said:

I think it's possible that the rear mounts can be rotated backwards (180 degrees). It sounds like you're close though so maybe loosen everything up including where mounts bolt to frame and get all bolts started then tighten everything.

  Are they oriented like so?

Ready To Ramble: 1930 Ford Model A Roadster | Barn Finds

Yes. If they were the other way the engine would be too far forward. The cupped part goes to the rear. I've put motors in Models A Fords before but never had the problem that I'm having with this one. Thanks for the input. See what I wrote to Wayne below. Dandy Dave!

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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13 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

Been about 45 years since I was close to model A engine mounts. As I recall, the rear mounts were made of cut, stamped, folded, steel plate metal (about 3/16 inch?). They were interchangeable from side to side as up/down were equal. However front was front, back was back.

The front engine mount was part of the front crossmember on the early and much of 1928 cars. A weakness in that design resulted in a modification to the front crossmember, and replacing it with a spring and rubber mounted "Y" to support the front of the engine. That "Y" had a slight offset. Could it have been flipped? Just a thought.

 

Although generally, the model A rear mounts were quite substantial, and usually fit right in? That steel plate they were made of could be bent or twisted if the car were ever in a collision. It certainly would not take much for the bolts to line up well.

 

I would imagine there are no signs of frame damage on the pickup?

 

It is the uncooperative silly stuff that drives us nuts!

Yes Wayne, It has been my experiance that they usually fit right in also. I have done this before. (Most recent with my 1930 Model A Tudor. Others since I was 12 years old.) When I took it apart I decided to put new mount rubber and a new bolt kit in it. One motor mount bolt on the passanger side was stripped and most were not correct with castle nuts and cotters. Mixed fine and course threaded hardware Some way too long. The inside pad was missing from the drivers side along with the spacers. The bells and whistles were going off in my head when I saw that. Also, with the motormounts and hardware correctly mounted It fit real tight. I had to jack up the passanger side rear motor mount to get the engine bell housing to start in and had to use a big screw driver and an 8 foot 2X4 for leverage. I could have used a frame stretcher if I had such a thing. Having been it a wreck at some point, and having a tweaked frame is a possibility that has gone though my mind. Also. The front mount should be OK as the other way around the springs would not fit. I aways seem to get the hard ones.  🤪 Why me Lord??? 😬  Dandy Dave.

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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18 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

Is the front crossmember the one that left the factory with the frame or did it get replaced? Bolted or welded in are the first clues to look for. Are the radiator mounting holes round or oval?

 

Bob 

Looks like an original Bob. Not aftermarket. Not welded. But could be from another Model A from any year. Dandy Dave.

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14 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

 

Uh,

no?

I better not go down that path.

 

Be good to yourself!

Ahhh Yes. My Psoriatic Arthritis kicking up has not helped either. At any rate, I have success to report. 😃

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After much finessing I finally have all the bolts and front mount in where it belongs without swaping the mounts. I got one bolt in on the top left side. I had to use a tie down strap to pull the front of the motor down so the bottom bolt would go in. Then I used a bottle jack on the right side between the frame and the right side bell housing to get the engine forward, and tap the mount back with a hammer to get the top hole to line up on the right side. I installed the top right bolt. I loosened the tie down strap and loosend the front mount engine bolts and also removed the two springs so they would not push the engine back up. Again I tightened the tie down strap and was able to get the bottom bolt in on the right side. All the rear bolts I did not tighten, but left at least one turn loose. Now to deal with the front mount. It was against the front part of the hole where the bottom bushing should go in a 1928- 1929. I jacked the front of the motor up with a floor jack and took the two mount bolts out of the front of the engine. I had to wrestle with it a bit before I found that the frame had a worn lip that would not allow the lower spring mount to slide all the way back so that the lower bushing would  fit. With everthing loose and no spring tension on the top I managed to get the bushing in where it belongs with the lower spring and castle nut to hold it in place. It took some more finessing to get the two upper springs in where they belong. With the castle nut on with only several turns, I rocked the motor mount first to one side to install one spring, and then to the other side to get the other spring in there. Some prying with a pry bar and screw driver was required to get the second spring in place. I then tightend the casle nut to where the cotter would fit nicely. I pulled the engine down with the tie down strap once again so that I could get the front motor mount engines bolts installed and tightened. Tightend the rear mount bolts and it was finnally sitting where it should be. Wwwwooohhhhhhhh. 😓. What a chore for something they did in minutes on the production line. 🤪        

I really need to remember to bring my camera. I think I'll put it in the truck or in my lunch bag. Ah yes, I just put it there. More photos soon. I thank everyone for your support. 😃 Dandy Dave!

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Just now, EmTee said:

When is it gonna make noise and stink?  ;)

I have to go get oil and antifreeze. I have another little job to look at today. Also, I need to go through a carburetor that is correct instead of that one size fits all after market POS that was on it. So soon, very soon. 🙂 Dandy Dave!

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23 hours ago, SC38dls said:

Did you have the engine in backwards or upside down😳🙃

I had a buddy years ago that was trying to put a Model T Ford together but found nothing fit. Upon examination, the frame was up side down. 😜🤣😂 

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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22 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

 

Well that was easy for them. And the way I remember the engine fitting in my 1931 Model AA truck when I was 12 years old. This thing I've been working on has to have something tweeked in the frame. Gggrrrrrrrrrrr... 🦁 Dandy Dave.

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7 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:

Well that was easy for them. And the way I remember the engine fitting in my 1931 Model AA truck when I was 12 years old. This thing I've been working on has to have something tweeked in the frame. Gggrrrrrrrrrrr... 🦁 Dandy Dave.

That’s the difference between the perfect world and reality. Mike

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On 8/2/2022 at 12:51 PM, 1937hd45 said:

Is the front crossmember the one that left the factory with the frame or did it get replaced? Bolted or welded in are the first clues to look for. Are the radiator mounting holes round or oval?

 

Bob 

I got a closer look today. Yes, The front cross member has been changed. The one that is there is bolted in. Not rivets. And elongated holes where the radiator mounts.

IMG_4655.JPG

IMG_4654.JPG

IMG_4657.JPG

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On 8/3/2022 at 9:12 AM, EmTee said:

When is it gonna make noise and stink?  ;)

EmTee, It's making noise and stinking that sweet parfume from the musical notes we all love to hear. Dandy Dave! Looky here... https://youtu.be/7E_QUobqeYs

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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Does the hood and radiator fitment look odd?........................................a 1930-31 front crossmember in a 1928-29 frame will do that. 🤑

 

The photo below has a 30-31 Front crossmember on the left and a 28-29 on the right. The oval radiator hole is the 20 foot away clue when looking for one at a swap meet. Note the stamped mounting pad areas for the radiator mounting the height difference is a good inch.

2x.JPG

Edited by 1937hd45 (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

Does the hood and radiator fitment look odd?........................................a 1930-31 front crossmember in a 1928-29 frame will do that. 🤑

 

The photo below has a 30-31 Front crossmember on the left and a 28-29 on the right. The oval radiator hole is the 20 foot away clue when looking for one at a swap meet. Note the stamped mounting pad areas for the radiator mounting the height difference is a good inch.

2x.JPG

Ahh haa. I must profess, I have worked on more 30-31's in that area. Makes sense now why things did not quite fit the way they should. It will stay that way for now. That is also why the hand crank support did not line up like it should but needed spacers that someone installed at one time. I had to reuse them. Kind of looks like someone hit something with it one time. The right side has a dent to the rear of the head light bar like it was forced back at one time. I noticed it when I reinstalled it. Also, where the left radiator rod support connects to the fire wall there is a crack about 1/2 way around. Whoever worked on this truck in the past was on the ruff side. Just quick and dirty and did not pay attention to details. Dandy Dave!

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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I took it for a trip around the block. It runs like a dream on the road. No more overheating issues. Starts real easy. Owner and everyone else involved with this old truck is real happy. 😃 Should give them lots of happy and trouble free miles now. 🙂 I still have several small things to do on her. Change the rearend and trans oil. Should be 600WT. It is runny like 80-90 and not the stuff that should be in there. I installed new antirattlers as 4 of the old ones were missing and the ones that were on there were too long for the rods they were on.  Lots of little stuff put straight.

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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