ISO 64 electro-cruise brake pedal arm/assembly

[Deanoko]

I'm in the process of retrofitting an electro-cruise system into a previously non cruise car.  It has factory guidematic, so I've been told all the harness is there waiting.  

Looking for advice OR the above part.  Can I modify my existing brake arm with a pin or am I better off trying to source the factory piece?

BTW, whoever designed the assembly of the instrument cluster is hopefully dead, saving me the trouble of hunting them down!! 😉

[Dales90]

You can drill a hole in the brake pedal arm. It is cast iron and will be a challenge. I did it a long time ago and it was funcitional

[XframeFX]

On 6/22/2022 at 12:06 PM, Deanoko said:

It has factory guidematic

1) Yes, having Guide-matic, the built-in harness for Electro-Cruise should be there. It is for late '63 Rivieras I'm certain.

2) The brake Pedal Switch has the slotted lever riding a pin high up on the Pedal Lever. Not sure if non cruise Rivs have the Pin (accelerator pedal side). Also, the OE Switch has a vacuum hose to it to kill control instantaneously.

[Deanoko]

Correct, however the non cruise brake lever lacks the pin.  I wonder since it's such a long slot in the switch, if the pin placement is critical, or you have some +/- to play with? 

[XframeFX]

On 6/23/2022 at 11:05 PM, Deanoko said:

the pin placement is critical, or you have some +/- to play with? 

On my '63, that roll pin is approx 5/8" above the pedal dog leg (Lower Red crossing the slotted lever)

The slotted lever is very close to that dog leg (yellow).

 

Hope this helps. FYI: Wish your speedo purchase stayed in Canada. I could've used it up here for myself LOL.

 

[Deanoko]

Thanks for the tip (and not doing it in mms!) Ha! 

[Moose2]

I'm just working up the courage to start repairing the non-functioning factory cruise control on my '64 Riv.  I bought the car as a project 10 years ago and now that its done (?) I'm tidying up some of the details I had ignored earlier.   Was your cruise assembly functional when you got it, or did you personally go through the functional challenges described in the GM shop manuals, or did you use the services of a repair facility that can bench-test (and refurbish) the elements of the cruise assembly??  I was never the brightest bulb on the Xmas tree and I would appreciate anything I can learn about troubleshooting/repair!    Thanks! Mike

[XframeFX]

2 hours ago, Moose2 said:

go through the functional challenges described in the GM shop manuals

Start there. Searching this forum and online will get you up to speed. Doing so, you'll verify the function of the holding relay, brake switch, actuator and transistor module.

 

The system is very crude. It locks-on speedo needle position. So, totally incompatible to patch up with modern components.

The weak link is the "Mechanical Transducer" on the Speedo shaft. Do a visual inspection on that first. If the hair-spring is NG, you're hooped.

 

An after market system to consider is the Rostra cruise control. Sorry, cannot use your existing setpoint knob or switch.

[Deanoko]

Moose2, I bought the components, less speedo, from a seller here, who claimed they were functional when removed from a car.  I have not tested them.  I did source a 64 cruise speedo out of Canada and am now in the process of installing the system.  The removal of the instrument cluster is quite the chore!  Make sure you have the factory service manual to reference the exploded diagrams at least.

If I get it all in and it doesn't work, that's probably how it will stay for awhile, as I don't know anyone who can diagnose components.  It looks like a very crude vibrator?/oscillator?/vacuum brain system.  

[Moose2]

Thanks for the feedback you guys!  I do have the shop manual and I've read through the cruise control section so I'll get started.  I realize accessing the speedo and the parts on the dashpad support are gonna be a struggle but I've had the dash pad off so many times I can do that part in the dark............  I've never really attempted to make it work and I know it doesn't have vacuum at the physical unit on the firewall so I'm gonna do a few obvious things and hope it'll come back on line.  Never was very lucky.  I'll keep you posted.  Thanks again!!!  Moose2

[XframeFX]

On 7/4/2022 at 2:30 PM, Deanoko said:

It looks like a very crude vibrator?/oscillator?/vacuum brain system.

The hairspring on the speedo shaft (and mine is pooched) makes contact with an oscillating setpoint arm within the speedo. The setpoint has to be within approx 5 MPH of speedo needle to engage, know how to operate 1st.

This oscillating contact from the speedo triggers a switching transistor which then continues on to the 37 ohm coil in the actuator that throttles engine vacuum to the diaphragm which pulls on that bead chain.

 

Output from the transistor is "pulse width modulation" (PWM) which is commonly used for motor control, LEDs etc. It produces various levels of effective Vdc through duty cycle. Typical application is heater blower motor. The only difference with Electro-Cruise is that it is of very low frequency which can be felt while engaged.

 

So, 3 functional components

1) Transducer in Speedo

2) Transistor Switcher

3) Vacuum Actuator

All other Electro-Cruise components are for safety. The holding Relay, Pedal Cutout and dashboard switch w/bulb.

 

Except for reaching behind for the speedo cable, the speedo is removed from the front w/o having to remove the dashpad.

 

If the bulb lights, cleaning out the Actuator with a new filter would be 1st step. Again, the hairspring is most likely the cause with someone else having messed with it during your Riv's 60 years of life.

[Deanoko]

What's the instruction for grabbing the speedo from the front???  Wow!  That would be terrific.

 

Edited July 26, 2022 by Deanoko (see edit history)